used R32 GT-R's: what to look for?

[tofu1413]

as title states.


what is there to look for in an "average" priced R32 GT-R..? (say about $14k)



besides regular maintanence (t belt, water pump etc) what else is there to look for..?


asking this for a friend whom is sort of looking for one (other options are RHD FD RX7's and 04+ WRX)



share some experiences!

[1exotic]

check if the e-brake works good because it could have been used in underground drift battles and races... according to that guy that was on global news "if we find a good place to race, we will actually close the road down and do it".

just throwing that out there.

[NeoDestinyZ]

Look for exterior, engine bay, interior wear. I have GTR friends that claims and notice that their GTR got rollback, check the history if possible for the real kms. Do compression and leak down tests, check for rusts and dents etc.

[StealthFighter]

Originally Posted by 1exotic

check if the e-brake works good because it could have been used in underground drift battles and races... according to that guy that was on global news "if we find a good place to race, we will actually close the road down and do it".

just throwing that out there.

"road's close pizza boy, find another way home"

[Onassis]

It's cheaper usually to find a GTR that's already landed as opposed to importing one.

Send your buddy over to http://gtrcanada.com/

[thumper]

it's a 15 year old + car. expect trouble. being a car that isn't local (let alone from the same continent) makes it harder to find an honest one.

some stuff i went through with a friend who was looking for one...

- busted dash vents and big bubble in vinyl on passenger side, holes and butchered electrical harness from DIY aftermarket gauge install
- if it's got something like a nismo speedo, there is a pretty good chance the odo reading is not correct.
- rust in the rear quarter panels around the wheelwells, rocker panels (ie. open the door and look down), under the rear wing or the lip on the nose, a-pillars. basically, try and look for one that didn't come from northern japan, etc.
- vertically scratched door glass and bunched up window seals mean trouble (difficult to see through, expensive to fix)
- rubber seals around all glass perished
- dead aux gauges in lower center console
- dead lighting in hvac controls
- leaking fuel injectors, rear diff
- seized brake calipers
- ball joints, tie rod ends, suspension bushings, etc. all shot
- hicas leak/failure dash light on
- trunk full of water due to leak in tailights (there is a rubber plug in the spare tire well to pull if it's a fish tank in there)
- crushed jacking points

... also look for signs of a roll cage that has been removed. i remember looking at one with a super mint interior, but couldn't understand why the seatbelts were tucked underneath the rear seat cushion. the mechanic who did the inspection knew right away. the rear cushion wasn't even bolted down, and he pulled up the floor carpet and found old mounting points for a roll cage (importer claimed it was never modified )

egh.

[toyota86]

pretty much same things to look for when buying any used car. what i looked for when i bought mine.

rust
accidents
original auction sheet. 3.5/B grade or higher only. forget about R or RA.
compression
oil pressure, good if it has r33+ crank and pump
vacuum/boost leaks, common
idle issure, common
oil leaks, somewhat common
turbos going bad, common
recirc valves if still on stock system. other wise bov
vented to air bov makes the car run funny if not done right. if it has that, make sure its working properly
both mafs
noise, harshness, vibration
check if hicas still works if it still has it
check for play in the hicas
check if awd clutch packs still works with center gauge. should be about to hit at least 25-30%, it gets worn and you lose awd eventually
look for diff whine
check clutch, gtr clutches are expensive to replace
make sure it shifts smoothly
check brakes/abs, brake lines
check tires, wheels
check that all electronics work
look for bad suspension bushings, common
front upper control arm, common
make sure all the importation and inspection paperwork is in order. titled and all
make sure it can pass aircare. aircare sucks but its a good indication of how well your car runs.
see if it has cats

these are some of the things on top of my head i could think of. there are more. check out gtrcanada.com for more info

[Phil@rise]

Drive shafts as well as carrier bearing if it is still a two piece.(causes vibration often misdiagnosed as tire/wheel issue)
Injector leaking (sometimes cracked and being a fire hazard)or injectors sticking usually the cause of a never replaced fuel filter.
Rear subframe bushings.
Tension rods and upper lower front rear control arm bushings.
Compression #6 cylinder goes low before others.
Fourth gear wears quicker then others.
ABS leaking. unless an N1 (very rare)then there is no ABS.
Climate controls and display.
Boost leaks from deteriorated soft lines (easy fix with Greddy or HKS lines).

Thats all the GTR specific issues that quickly come to my mind. If you find one worth investigating you can bring it by for a thorough inspection by Akira. He's got over 20 years experience with GTR's and there pitfalls.
Get a good one or it'll quickly become expensive if you want to have any fun.

[tofu1413]

yeah, im expecting some troubles as it is quite an old + complex car.


since you guys at rise auto have this kind of expertise on R32's, i shall bring it down once i find one before purchase.


thanks for the replies!

[Derek128]

check if it was in any accidents


http://www.yoshihisa-style.com/s001-r32.html

after




b4

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

Originally Posted by StealthFighter

"road's close pizza boy, find another way home"

fucking street ricers...i mean racers

[Phil@rise]

Originally Posted by tofu1413

yeah, im expecting some troubles as it is quite an old + complex car.


since you guys at rise auto have this kind of expertise on R32's, i shall bring it down once i find one before purchase.


thanks for the replies!

Looking forward to it

[hkRicer]

jumpy, malfunction cluster, brake master cylinder, crooked steering wheel, aligment, etc...i'd stay alway from the one with tons of aftermarket parts, modded ecu etc...

[tofu1413]

well, it is perfered that the car would be at stock as possible. in white or gun grey.


a nismo cluster would be a bonus actually.

[AVS_Racing]

main thing is buying a car then realizing its shit and not having $ to fix it then try to sell on CL for $8gs

[GabAlmighty]

Oh, and gtrcanada or make friends with someone who's done it a few times.

Originally Posted by 1exotic

check if the e-brake works good because it could have been used in underground drift battles and races... according to that guy that was on global news "if we find a good place to race, we will actually close the road down and do it".

I've never been there and closed the road... But we were at a good strip, parently Richmond one was hectic

[boostfever]

Originally Posted by tofu1413

well, it is perfered that the car would be at stock as possible. in white or gun grey.


a nismo cluster would be a bonus actually.

you dont want any cluster other than stock oem. cars with nismo or other "320 km/h" clusters dont show the accurate mileage and most likely have higher mileage.

good luck finding a clean GT-R, there are a few of them out there. i was looking for a GT-R last year, couldnt find a good example at a moderate price and ended up with my GTS-T. still pretty happy.

[tofu1413]

Originally Posted by AVS_Racing

main thing is buying a car then realizing its shit and not having $ to fix it then try to sell on CL for $8gs

funny how you never ever seem to have the balls to say that infront of my face when i see you. all you ever do is hide behind the computer screen and start shit.

go back and suck on your parents tits for money.

nobody asked you.



back on topic.

[shenmecar]

Originally Posted by AVS_Racing

main thing is buying a car then realizing its shit and not having $ to fix it then try to sell on CL for $8gs

Even you said it, main thing is BUYING A CAR. Not modding your mommy's grocery-run-mobile. Grow some balls why dont you.

[spoon.ek9]

oooh, this thread just got a little bit more interesting.

[AVS_Racing]

lol i am giving u advice about buying a jdm car. u have any idea how much it costs to maintain a jdm car? y do u think u see so many going for dirt cheap on cl/ rs and no body even interested in them.

[shenmecar]

Originally Posted by AVS_Racing

lol i am giving u advice about buying a jdm car. u have any idea how much it costs to maintain a jdm car? y do u think u see so many going for dirt cheap on cl/ rs and no body even interested in them.

Whether that was advice or insult to begin with, only you will know. The way I see it, you came in this thread without anything helpful to contribute. Stop trying to act as if you are the most righteous motherfucker out there. You can take that EL you ruined and drive it off the cliff. Tasteful mods my ass.

[tofu1413]

Originally Posted by AVS_Racing

lol i am giving u advice about buying a jdm car. u have any idea how much it costs to maintain a jdm car? y do u think u see so many going for dirt cheap on cl/ rs and no body even interested in them.

unlike you, i have friends. they have imported RHD JDM cars before, just that none of them have imported a R32 GTR before. that is the reason i am asking on RS.

your first post was in the nature to offend me since we both know each other personally. yes i have my up and downs with cars and have went through lots.


however, unlike you, i dont mooch money off parents and mod grocery getters and calling it "tasteful" or "vip" honestly, you dont know jack shit about cars. dont make me dig up the time when you were saying what a real projector retro fit is. you embarass us car enthusiasts.

[AVS_Racing]

right and what gives u the right to go bash my cars?

[tofu1413]

LOL what gives you the right to bash on both me and shenmecar?


cant afford fixing a cracked windshield?


the type R is a lemon?


you have to work on talking behind people's backs