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Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Technical Discussion > Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech

Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech This forum is brought to you by The Speed Syndicate (TSS) in Burnaby.
Discussion of maintaining your engine, transmission, differentails, rear ends, and mods associated with "driveline" parts..

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Old 01-18-2011, 06:45 PM   #1
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installing new 12 volt battery, lights still won't come on

Ok so I have this 1998 transport montana that I bought 3 months ago. Works great until one day the battery died on me... jump starting it gave it life again but even driving for an hour on the highway the battery could not hold a charge for the next day.

Frustrated I removed the old battery (bought in november 2009) and had it load tested at canadian tire. They told me that one of the cells were defective so I bought the exact same model and attempted to install it...

however due to my retardness i installed the negative terminal first then tried to install the positive terminal after. As soon as my socket hit the positive terminal a huge spark happened shaking me in the process... knowing that i screwed up i removed the positive nut by hand and then removed the negative terminal. After that I installed the positive terminal first and then the negative terminal but here is where things get a little frustrating...

connecting the two terminals i attempted to turn on the car lights to see if they turn on... nothing... crank the key... nothing like the new battery was dead on arrival... so now i ask the members... where do i start? the fuses? try another battery? I have a volt meter so where do I go to test the fuses in the box? Did I blow any fuses due to my spark when installing the terminals in the wrong order?

please help me!!
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:08 PM   #2
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Either its your fuses, or it may be a loose battery terminal (likely due to corrosion).

I don't think that spark would have done anything, UNLESS you connected the terminals backwards.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:31 PM   #3
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connecting the neg first really shouldn't make any difference. It's done that way for safety reasons.
It's normal to get some small arching when connecting the battery terminal, especially if the ignition switch is left in the on or accesory position or headlight switch is in the on position or any other significant electrical is left on.
If it creates a huge spark that shakes you, then it sounds like as you were tightening the pos terminal, the wrench or ratchet touch body ground at the same time. Happens to all of us at some time. I still have the burn mark on my wrench to show.
Sounds like you popped a main fuse
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:51 PM   #4
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how do you check your fuses using a digital voltmeter?
the battery terminals were very clean... there were no corrosion on it
i like your explanation though hmm guess ill tamper with the connections/fuses tomorrow keep you guys posted
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babii_temptz View Post
i installed the negative terminal first then tried to install the positive terminal after.

Sounds like you hooked up the terminals backwards and hopefully, you blew the main fuse. Look for the main fuse location in your manual and check to see if it's blown.

Should look something like this box, in the engine compartment and the main fuse will be larger and higher amperage. But check your manual to be sure.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-car-fuse-works

Here's the location for yours:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_there_a...ontiac_montana

There also might be a fusible link from the battery wire to the main fuse, check that also.
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:30 PM   #6
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im pretty sure i didn't reverse the polarity of the terminals, just the order that was put on... i was taught that it was negative first then positive, and then positive to negative... but in my case i went neg > pos then > neg > pos (sparked happened when tightening the pos terminal)

thanks for the link will check out
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:33 PM   #7
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fyi

my mom bought a brand new battery form canadian tire and it was defective(DOA)

unforunetly my mom didn't listen to me and jump started her rx330 and drove to the lexus dealership where they replaced the battery(cost over 350$ due to diag. fee) and the suv was FINE....

so id start with checking the battery with your volt meter.

and if its above 12V 12.4~V then its FINE and then you have to look through all fuses(if there is no Z shaped metal piece between then its blown.

and you possibly could of blown a fusible link(PIA to find unless you have a manual with all locations of fusible links)
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:43 PM   #8
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Sorry, I misunderstood. I'd still check the main fuses and fusible links (if applicable)

And for future reference, always negative last. If you're jumping a car, hook both clamps (pos./neg.) to the good car first, then dead car pos. on the battery and the neg. clamp on a ground, away from the battery (engine, bare bolt, accersory bracket).
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Old 01-19-2011, 04:20 PM   #9
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ok update...

the first thing i checked was the battery... 12.6 volts ok so the battery is not DOA

then i checked the parasitic drain from the negative terminal... .002 amps? (i think spec doesn't allow more than .0025 amps)

then i looked at the connections making sure they were tight and corrosion free... yep

now i look at the fuse box and see this:

MAXIFUSES

1- cool fan 2 (30A)
2 -
3 - headlamps (60A)
4 - batt main 2 (60A)
5 - ign main 1 (40A)
6 - cool fan 1 (30A)
7 - Batt main 1 (60A)
8 - ign main 2 (60A)

MINI RELAYS

9 - Cool fan
10 - Cool fan 2
11 - ign main < --- I replaced this one from a part from lordco... I must be dreaming if that would fix the problem X_X
12 - cool fan 1

MICRO RELAYS

13 - a/c CLU
14 - Fuel pump
15 - F/PMP SPD CONT (What is this? I don't have a fuse for it though)
16 - horn
17 - fog lamp

MINIFUSES

18 - INJ (10A) Don't know what this is? I checked it though the fuse is solid
19 - spare
20 - spare
21 - ign 1 - UH (15A) I checked this one too solid...
22 - spare
23 - spare
24 - spare
25 - elek ign (15A) Solid as well
26 - spare
27 - b/u lamp (10A)
28 - A/C CLU (10A)
29 - radio (10A)
30 - alt sense (10A) Something to do with the alternator? Solid as well...
31 - TCC (10A)
32 - Fuel PUmp (15A)
33 - ECM sense (10A)
34 -
35 - Fog LP (10A)
36 - Horn (15A)
37 - Park LP (20A)
38 -
39 -

It seems I tested all the fuses and didn't trust my diagnostic and pulled the ones I mentioned up above... so now one mentioned that I should check the fusiable link and there are also fuses inside the van... bleh I'm not sure where to start now... replacing the ign main relay (11) was just a buzz kill... i really don't want to give up yet... instead of having the van towed towards the mechanic shop...

i got 3 hours until lordco closes... help!!! where are these fusiable links? I have no manual unfortunately
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:23 PM   #10
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Long shot here for you pros but if and when all the fuses are intact, would there be a possibility that the ECU/DME is fried?
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:37 PM   #11
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Long shot here for you pros but if and when all the fuses are intact, would there be a possibility that the ECU/DME is fried?
It is possible. Manufactures should be smart enough to fuse all the electrical components. Especially the ecu. (but then again this is GM we're talkin about)
Will need a diagram or manual to see where some kind of a main fuse or fusible link is. *just a thought. aren't fusable links in some cars part of the battery cables?
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #12
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usually coming from battery to starter.

oh sometimes a fuse COULD be blown, but doesn't look like it

switch your multimeter to resistance and check a known new fuse, then the rest they should all be close to that spec.
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