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Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Technical Discussion > Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech

Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech This forum is brought to you by The Speed Syndicate (TSS) in Burnaby.
Discussion of maintaining your engine, transmission, differentails, rear ends, and mods associated with "driveline" parts..

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Old 04-22-2011, 04:08 PM   #1
What hasn't Killed me, has made me more tolerant of RS!
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question about rust

I'm looking at some older 240sx's and Ae86's right now on craigslist for something cheap to learn to drift in. I just need a chassis since I'll be pulling the engine out later (sr20 or 2jz ). Of course I am expecting lots of rust all over these cars. Question is, how much/ which key areas should I be worried about rust on. Also would it be possible to get rid of the rust that's already accumulated on the chassis ? Maybe sand it off ? If there is rust on the undercarriage, should floor panels just be ripped off and new ones reinstalled or can you keep the old ones but remove the rust?
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:29 PM   #2
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as far as i know on s chassis'.. look out for rust on the frame rails, around the strut towers, rear frame and the rocker panels behind the rear wheels (which is usually the worst)

Possible to get rid of the rust? Yes, but it won't be worth the money or effort at all imo. Sanding off rust won't solve the problem, to really get rid of rust you need to cut the existing piece off and weld new metal on there.

I'd advise to look for a car with minimal rust and go from there. Not worth picking up a rust bucket and spending time & money to fix something that will inevitably return.
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:56 PM   #3
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my advice is to pick one up from california and import it here. it is almost impossible to find a s13 from bc without ANY rust.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #4
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Not worth your money to get a rusty one, far too much sunk costs in terms of time, effort, and headaches galore. However, if anyone wants a great DIY rust solution, try Fluid Film. It's expensive but worth the price (I think it's chemically very similar to the compound used by Krown Rust Protection chains). Like Shorn says, try California, or even Nevada, Mexico, etc
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:12 PM   #5
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Also rust converter works on small area's, as long as they have not punched through.
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:09 PM   #6
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Why don't you take the rolling chassis out to the DIY sand blasting places, then spray a modern layer of sealer and primer? Especially since your engine is out.

Since the car is suitable for collectible status soon. Do remember to get the car valued if you do a restore.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:25 AM   #7
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There is plenty of places to check. Most on the driver side. the tops of the towers rust the bases where they connect to the frame rails rot and around the frame rails on the driver side below the master cylinder. Theres more but I'm a slow typer call the shop if you like.
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