What colour pad to use?

[!e.lo_]

So I got my cf hood recleared. Now I'm going to wetsand 2000, polish, and seal. Question is, which colour pad woud be best to use for gloss polishing+seal. Bare with me please if this seems vague, detailing isn't my field of expertese. Thanks in advance!
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[kyoshiro]

which brand pad are you using?
and you probably should give your clear some time to cure first.

[IMASA]

I'm about to do the same thing on my CF rear lip. Different brands pads come in different colors, but
I think you would need to start with a compound and a yellow heavy cutting pad or orange light cut pad to remove the sanding scratches. Then go with a polish and a white polishing pad. Then apply sealant/wax with the regular finishing pads.

[kyoshiro]

also do see if it really needs wet sanding, i personally would not wet sand unless you had a paint thickness gauge (of which I dont have either thus I stick to a DA and start from least cut)

[!e.lo_]

Don't have any pad atm, will be going out to get them later. Using porter cable poisher if that matters
The hoods be cured for a week, should be sufficent time, no?
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[kyoshiro]

you should ask the guys who cleared your hood and ask when its good to be worked on.
And again dont wet sand unless theres any real deep scratches or you want to rid of orange peel as theres no need to do unless you're trying to achieve those. and paint thickness gauge is a must when wet sanding in all seriousness as you may sand too deep. You will get majority if not all of the defects out with just polishing pads + polish.
Where are you getting your pads?

[CanadaGoose]

Pleaseee for your own sake, do not wet sand first

Polish first and see if it get's the results you want, then go from there. Wet sanding is for major surface defects and paint levelling.

The orange light cutting pads being referred to are Lake Country mild cutting pads (different brands have different colour coding) and probably is the best to go with. You can use a 'hot' pad with a 'hot' polish to get very agressive correction, or use a 'warm' pad with a 'hot' polish to tone it down a bit - see the pads have their own abrasive properties, so you can get different results using the same polish, by just changing the pad.

I would use an Orange mild cut pad on your Porter Cable, with something like Poorboys SSR2.5, then finish up with SSR1 and white polishing pad to remove any hazing. If for whatever reason that didn't work, you can either make a second pass with the 2.5, or step up to something more aggressive, in the class of SSR3, but still use the orange pad - the yellow heavy cutting pad will be way too agressive imo

To seal, if using your Porter Cable to apply, you'll need a very gentle pad like lake country white pads, or black - nothing abrasive.

Time to get your shine on

*edit* Read this article: http://www.eshine.ca/MyNewPolisher.htm

[IMASA]

I cleared my CF lip using just a spray can. I used the whole can, let it cure for 1.5 weeks and wet sanded it with 1000 grit to get rid of the orange peel and small hairs that got stuck. I plan on using another can to clear it again.

Should I wet sand again after the last clear with 1000 and then 2000? Or just go straight to 2000 or just compound? I figure I'll have some orange peel and small dust again as I'm just spraying it in my garage.

[CanadaGoose]

^ I would go 2000 grit, and then work your way down to compounds and polishes. 2000 will do a good job levelling out the orange peel

Try and be very surgical about it in your garage, you shouldn't have to deal with hairs stuck in your clearcoat lol

Reminds me of when one of my friends had 3M installed on his hood by a cheapo place....there was a monster pube stuck under it, right in the middle, and it stayed there till the day he sold the car lol

[Way2ricey]

Try yellow first with megs 105, should remove the sanding marks no problem. OR something a little less aggressive, try a green pad with megs 205

[Jethro]

these are my favorite
Compounding pad http://www.farecla.com/?screenID=133#/133
Finishing/Glazing pads, http://www.farecla.com/?screenID=137#/137

You can find these at white & peters and get the the farecla backing plate to rock these killer pads. if orange peel is a problem, wetsand with 2000 then compound, I prefer 3M polishes but If the clear is less than 3 months old do not use anything that will seal the finish, sealing it will cause blisters polishing wont get out, you'll most likely have to re-clear the hood!

[Noizz]

A PTG isn't going to help in this case, your hood is carbon fiber. PTGs only measure on aluminum and metal.

Since you got it recleared, you should be safe wet sanding the hood. Most paint jobs require a wet sand regardless.

Get a yellow pad and a green pad. Use an abrasive such as Meguiars M105 on the yellow pad and if you achieve the result you want, finish it with M205 on a green pad. You could use the Menzerna line too, Power Gloss first and Power Finish second.

Buy 2 of each pad and polish your car while you're at it!

[markrusell]

I believe you would require to start with a aggregate and a yellow hefty chopping pad or orange lightweight slash pad to eliminate the sanding scratches. Then proceed with a polish and a white shining pad. Then request sealant/wax with the normal completing pads

[Nvasion]

IMASA which clear did you use?

[Suprarz666]

Planning on using the 7424? Going to take forever with that polisher. A rotary would make things much easier.

[kyoshiro]

Originally Posted by Suprarz666

Planning on using the 7424? Going to take forever with that polisher. A rotary would make things much easier.

yea rotary is always faster and easier but its also easier to burn paint and I wouldnt recommend it at the hands of novice. I also cant imagine how spraycan clear would hold up to the heat generated, it will possibly get sticky real quick.

[Suprarz666]

its for 2 part clear, since he just got it re-done by a shop.

Although rotary is easier to burn, it isn't THAT easy. Just don't stay in the same spot too long. I only suggest it because i have the PC myself, its great overall, but takes forever if it is used for wetsanding+polishing.

Getting some 3000grit paper also makes the job much easier.

[kyoshiro]

try using suburf pads as they're suppose to cut more beyond the compound pads
otherwise meguiars microfiber system is suppose to cut quite a bit

[IMASA]

Originally Posted by Nvasion

IMASA which clear did you use?

Just Plastikote clear @ Lordco. I was going to pony up the $$$ for SES, but @ $30 a can, and I wanted to use 2 cans, cheaped out.

My clear job turned out pretty good considering it was my first attempt. And yes I used a 7424 so it did take forever to compound and polish it. I did it when the lip not attached to the car so it was tough holding the lip and using the 7424. Would not even consider doing that with a rotary.

[911fanatic]

Originally Posted by Noizz

A PTG isn't going to help in this case, your hood is carbon fiber. PTGs only measure on aluminum and metal.

Actually, The Defelsko DFT measures on metal and metal substrates and its either the 200 or 6000 that measures on plastic, carbon fibre, kevlar etc.

[Nvasion]

think plastik coat will work for carbon fiber hood?

[Noizz]

Originally Posted by 911fanatic

Actually, The Defelsko DFT measures on metal and metal substrates and its either the 200 or 6000 that measures on plastic, carbon fibre, kevlar etc.

+$600!!!

[IMASA]

Originally Posted by Nvasion

think plastik coat will work for carbon fiber hood?

It should be ok, it's still an automotive clear. I see it being no worse than duplicolor. I hear SES is better, but it's double the price. You'll need several cans for your hood so you do the math to see if it's worth DIY vs taking it to a shop.

[911fanatic]

Originally Posted by Noizz

+$600!!!

Thats for the DFT combo. The 200 measures on CF, Kevlar etc and its $2600. Want one?

[zephyrantes]

I always start with 1500 grit whenever i wet sand. I switch to 2000 grit once the job is completely sanded, and that's really just to prep the surface for polishing.

2000 grit CAN definately get the orange peel out, but it takes longer and you'd have to constantly use a "fresh" sheet most of the time.

For corners and edges, I use the 1500 just as an initial "cut".

if it's silver, grey, white I'll even start with 1200, just for a first swipe, and then go to the 1500 and 2000.

If in doubt, then maybe just stick with the 2000 grit all the way. But if you ask me, 1500grit to start and 2000 to finish is the way to go.

Just take your time and go slow.