Dachshund Information

[dbo]

I have a miniature dachshund (2yrs old) and he keeps barking at larger dogs. Even though the larger dogs don't care much for him, my mini will attempt to bite them and continuously bark at them. I have a trouble taking him out for long walks due to this, anyone know how to tame him??

Thanks

[Nlkko]

How long have you had him? He definitely has a dominant issue meaning he thinks he's the boss, the alpha male not you. If you've had him for a long time, it'll take a while to whip him into shape. Do some more reading (here is a good place, scroll down read all the articles). I'd recommend watching Cesar Milan's Mastering Leadership series.

It will take a while for you to absorb and apply all the training technique and also take a while for him to adapt to the "new" boss but it will work out.

This isn't 1/10 of what I do but to give you a general idea. I would start immediately by correct him every time he do something you don't agree with or something you don't want him to do at that moment (for example: go into the kitchen while you're cooking, play with the toys and make noise while you're watching movies, running around the house, chewing stuffs, jumping on the sofas, walk into the house before you, walk into the elevator before you, etc.) There are many things but the rule of thumb is YOU'RE ALWAYS the boss. Make it clear to him that YOU own everything (his food, his water, his toys, the sofas, the chairs, the living room, the kitchen, the bedroom, the food that's accidentally dropped on the floor, every single thing). Everything is yours and not one single thing is his. He doesn't get what he wants even if he begs for it. He gets what you offer to him.

Every time he does an unwanted behavior, make him sit down, or better, lay down. Generally:

1. Stop him immediately on the spot. Say a firm "NO". Do not say his name when you correct him. Use his name when you praise him. The idea is his name should tie to a good thing.

2. Then use leash/collar, give it a light but quick pull, not so hard that you choke him but enough that snap him out of it temporarily. Always pull/push him to the side, never backward or forward. The idea is to throw him off balance not dragging or choking him.

3. Tell him to sit down. Be calm at all time. If he doesn't listen: You can push his butt down (don't push the back) or put your hands under his chin and rise it up gently (that will naturally force them to sit down).

4. He will most likely attempt to resist and walk away. "Drag" him back to the original spot. Repeat 2 and 3. Pay attention to his eyes. It must not be fixate on anything.

5. When he sits down, calm then you can go on.

There are many things other things you should do that couldn't be possibly include in a single reply but always remember that you have to do them consistently for it to work.

I also have Daschund, they're very intelligent animal and doesn't take long to be whipped into shape. They like to please you, not pissing you off. You HAVE TO be consistent. You will see results in a week or two.

[Nlkko]

^Also for walking specifically, try to anticipate his reaction. When you see a dog coming from behind or from
the opposite direction from far away, pay attention to your dog's reaction. If his tails go straight up, his body leans forward pulling on the leash and his head fixate on the other dogs, give a quick light pull on the leash (pull just enough to feel the tension and then release immediately). You may have to do it a few times. Always read his reactions. Dogs dont just snap, they give plenty of warnings before they do.
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[babycake]

I have never pulled or jerked the leash before and I don't know how effective it is, but I see many people on the streets overusing it to the point of harm. I know the poster above me mentioned *light* pulls though.

Anyway, reading this thread reminded me of a vet article I recently read about collars and leash pulling/jerking:

Dog collars can cause disease and possibly lead to cancer « Dr. Peter Dobias – holistic veterinary medicine

[Nlkko]

The pull I mentioned is a technique in the Cesar Millan's Mastering Leadership series. You can't even see it unless you pay really close attention. You can call it a guide pull.

What do you propose if your dog doesn't follow you? Just stand there and yell and beg him? I've seen people overusing voice command and more often than not, it's useless.

I either do that guide pull, a slight nudge on the side or just take the leash off and walk away. In the dog world, the alpha male doesn't beg and yell the pack to follow. The pack either follow or be left behind.

Body harness just helps the dog with pulling. It does nothing to help you train a dog with issues.

[Pudh=SoTasty]

Originally Posted by babycake

I have never pulled or jerked the leash before and I don't know how effective it is, but I see many people on the streets overusing it to the point of harm. I know the poster above me mentioned *light* pulls though.

Anyway, reading this thread reminded me of a vet article I recently read about collars and leash pulling/jerking:

Dog collars can cause disease and possibly lead to cancer « Dr. Peter Dobias – holistic veterinary medicine

I gotta say...You sound like a big pussy....Which is why your dog probably thinks he's boss....

[babycake]

Originally Posted by Pudh=SoTasty

I gotta say...You sound like a big pussy....Which is why your dog probably thinks he's boss....

Oh, and how do you know that? More than a few behaviorists and trainers have told me that my dog is *the best* behaved small dog they have ever had the pleasure of meeting.

If using positive reinforcement + keeping my dog's health in mind as my #1 priority makes me a "pussy", then so be it. At the end of the day, this "pussy" still has a perfectly well-behaved dog.

Sorry to break it to you, but there is more than one method of dog training. My dogs obey me by respect and because they WANT to, not by learned helplessness which Cesar Millan teaches. I didn't come into this thread to talk about how I and other very experienced dog trainers disagree with Millan (and if you do more research, the dominance theory is considered outdated, by the way. The guy who coined the term "alpha" actually came right out and said so). I just wanted to let the OP know that hard jerks on the leash may have health consequences, especially with a smaller dog like a Dachshund. I'm NOT going to continue this training debate, so say what you want - my only concern was HEALTH.

[ImportXxX]

really??? i have a dashund..he doesn't bark much only at certain people he doesn't know but usually he'll stay away from big dogs too.. gota say though, very smart dogs.

[dbo]

thanks for all the tips..i will try them out!

also, i noticed that every time my dog has done something wrong (e.g. pooped in the house) he will always hide under the furniture and when i get close to him, he will growl and show me his teeth..i don't even say/do anything and you can see his mouth move and once i say or raise my hand he will actually growl at me..does anyone else have that problem? i noticed it just started less than half a year ago and i thought it was because i haven't neutered him yet..i just neutered him about 2-3 months ago and he seems more calm but still growls at time to time..any ideas on what i can do to make him stop?

[Nlkko]

Neutering will reduce his aggressiveness no doubt because he's no longer frustrated at not being able to find a mate, but it doesn't teach him that you're the boss.

From what you said, he definitely has dominant issue. Showing teeth and growling is pretty bad but can be fixable with a little persistence. Like I said, started by doing the little things, the most important ones:

- Shelter: All humans walk through the door first, including your guests. He doesn't go in until you invite him in. He will try to sneak in. "Kick" him out. Make him sit down and say "Wait" or something like that. You will have to repeat it again. Do so until he sit and wait without your presence. Then invite him in. You HAVE TO do it consistently. My dog now know to fully lay down and wait whenever I get home. The above also apply to your sofas/rooms/chairs.

- Food/ Water/ Toys: He does not eat when he's hungry. He eats whenever you want him to eat. Sounds cruel but in the dog world, the pack doesn't eat until the pack leader allow. You can set any feeding time you like but don't do it randomly, follow a routine. Now when you feed him, only offer the food if he's calm. He cannot jumping around. Make him sit down. Tell him to wait. Then wait until his eyes are off the food plate and on you. Yes, he must look at you. He cannot make any whining noise. Will take a long time at first but will work. When he's calm, put the plate down. He will try to go at the food. Do not allow that. He must wait until you offer him the food by saying "Go eat" or whatever. Do the same with food that was accidentally dropped on the floor. Food on the floor doesn't mean he can eat it because you haven't offer that to him. All of the above apply to water/toy. Occasionally, be a dick and take away the food/toys while he's with them. Be careful and pay attention to his reaction so you don't get snapped. Use an object to protect yourself and just block him away from the food/toys. Make him sit down, stay calm and then offer them to him.

- Hiding under the furniture: Never allow him to go under the furniture at any time for any reason until his behavior changes. Dogs see such places as a place that can defend him against you. Sounds funny but it's true. He must not sleep under the furniture. He must not eat under the furniture. He must not play under the furniture. He can't even chill under the furniture. Block the place. You don't have to do it physically, just says no and "kick" him out whenever he tries to get under.

- Walking: You lead the way. Not him. He cannot sniff unless you slow down and allow him. He cannot stop unless you want to stop. Sounds cruel but again, think about the alpha dog.

- Urinating: Only punish him if you have taken him outside and he insist on releasing inside. If you haven't taken him out then it's not really his fault. If it's his fault, punish him by make him stay in a corner. Make sure you do right after he pooped so he knows what he's being punished for. Make him stay in the corner for I don't know 5 minutes. Nobody talk to him, play with him, call him during that time. If he moves from the spot, move him back and make him sit there. Call him whenever you're ready to forgive. try not to pet right away though.

The MOST important thing is you MUST NOT at all time, back away when he's showing teeth and growling. That is the sign of defeat and will not help.

All that reinforcement is great and all but will work better if you give him plenty of exercise. Walk him a lot. Give him something to kill time in the house. Mine loves the little squeaky toys and the dental bones but different dogs have different taste.

Watch the Mastering Leadership series. Everything I've learnt have been in there.

[Nlkko]

Originally Posted by babycake

Sorry to break it to you, but there is more than one method of dog training. My dogs obey me by respect and because they WANT to, not by learned helplessness which Cesar Millan teaches. I didn't come into this thread to talk about how I and other very experienced dog trainers disagree with Millan (and if you do more research, the dominance theory is considered outdated, by the way. The guy who coined the term "alpha" actually came right out and said so). I just wanted to let the OP know that hard jerks on the leash may have health consequences, especially with a smaller dog like a Dachshund. I'm NOT going to continue this training debate, so say what you want - my only concern was HEALTH.

You can't really talk about health like dogs might somehow get cancer from the collar when there's thousands of dogs being put down because the owners just give up on them.
And a leash correction is inhumane? Yea let's see your experts try to reason with a dog when his instinct kick in. I can say I've seen owners abusing voice command to no avail. It looks pathetic because it doesn't work. You know when I first brought my Daschund home, he barks when we went out. Somebody complained and you know what the manager told me? "Get a shock collar". Maybe you can try educate people like that first people you pick on Milan. And the "light pull" is a snap and relax. It CANNOT cause fucking cancer. It's nothing like a mother discipline her puppy. Have you seen any videos? The dog mother grabs the puppy by the neck. She doesn't stand there and bark like a retard. This is not like you know, in the movie, where dogs can talk.

Milan helps saving those poor soul's lives by you know offering a method that give results on a national TV program. How come those experience trainers and experts and shits haven't done anything like that? Maybe they're too scared the dogs with issues will bite the shit out of them? Come on man.

Good for you that you have a well-behaved dog but pick on a guy that understand dog psychology probably more than you or any of your experts...

People like Ian Dunbar needs to take a hike, go back to their books and realize there are no "best" way to train a dog. There are working ways. Leash correction for the short period of training causing cancer is the single most retarded thing I've ever heard. You train your dog for a short time, he's got it and that's that. You rarely have to do any correction afterwards.

[babycake]

Originally Posted by Nlkko

And a leash correction is inhumane? Yea let's see your experts try to reason with a dog when his instinct kick in. I can say I've seen owners abusing voice command to no avail. It looks pathetic because it doesn't work. You know when I first brought my Daschund home, he barks when we went out. Somebody complained and you know what the manager told me? "Get a shock collar". Maybe you can try educate people like that first people you pick on Milan.

Where did I say leash correction is inhumane?

I have no idea why you're being so defensive about this. If you re-read my first post, I didn't say much except bring up the fact that I read a recent article about collars causing neck injuries (and no, it's not only cancer as you seem to interpret it as. It's a known fact that small dogs can and do get physical trachea and neck injuries from being pulled in that area - I have witnessed this firsthand when working as a vet assistant). I even mentioned in the first post that you said *light tugs* only, which was supposed to be a good thing.

Also, those experts are not MY experts. They are professional dog trainers who are called in to help rehabilitate dogs and work through issues.

[babycake]

Originally Posted by Nlkko

I can say I've seen owners abusing voice command to no avail. It looks pathetic because it doesn't work.

You can't give a voice command to a dog and expect him to just understand what you want without previously teaching him what exactly you expect of him. Those people are obviously not training properly if they keep repeating commands the dog doesn't understand.

Somebody complained and you know what the manager told me? "Get a shock collar". Maybe you can try educate people like that first people you pick on Milan.

Um, Millan does use shock collars.

[Nlkko]

^You misunderstood me. I believe it is necessary in extreme case. But not over a long period of time and definitely not because the dog barked one single morning over the 4 months I've been in this place. I'm not trying to pick a fight. At the end of the day, you can't really please everyone.

[Lil Bastrd]

Lol I always get such a kick out of people that make Ceasar Milan a god in the dog training world. Nobody can train a dog in a week let alone a couple of days. Yes if you drastically change your reaction it will for awhile change the dogs.

Dauschounds can be a timid breed, which is irionic when in later days they were bred to be ratters. Over time certain behaviour traits have been bred in as the look/size became more important.
Number one : what do you do when the dog bares it's teeth and growls? What is your reaction to the dog soiling in the house? Dogs do not do things to "piss us off" like some people think. Dogs were scavengers once, and humans used that trait to get them to work for their food and shelter and safety. They are different now, but still look to us for these things.

The barking/nipping is usually something done out of fear. Think fight or flight. Your dog has chosen fight. I'm sure though if there was a real danger he/she would run. Honestly the best thing is to find some training classes and work in set scenarios first.

[Nlkko]

^Sure let's dump money on training classes because you're too useless to do it at home. And "Daschund can be a timid breed"? What kind of garbage...

I don't think Milan is a god in the dog training world. I think he's fucking amazing for showing people that no dog is hopeless and many of his techniques is so simple anyone can do it home instead shitting money out of the ass and bring to a trainer.

Go back and read your reply to the OP, man. It's useless. The best suggestion you can give is go to a trainer. People like you only contribute to the overcrowdedness of the pound and thousands of dogs being put down.

[Pudh=SoTasty]

There's a method to jerking the leash...Of course, if you do it incorrectly it can cause harm, but that goes for anything................so thanks for stating the obvious

[babycake]

Originally Posted by Pudh=SoTasty

There's a method to jerking the leash...Of course, if you do it incorrectly it can cause harm, but that goes for anything................so thanks for stating the obvious

Did you register to become a member on RS just to start crap? Since you sound like you're a know-it-all, perhaps you could contribute in a more useful way, like giving the OP tips on dog training instead of just spewing useless statements here and there. How about you explain what your method is to jerking the leash and how it can be done incorrectly? Since it's so obvious to you, it shouldn't be difficult at all.

Have you ever owned smaller dogs? Anyone familiar with small dogs would know there's a reason why harnesses are more often than not recommended instead of collars...and not just for training purposes or leash jerking. Even a small dog who pulls wearing a collar without being jerked around can damage their trachea. Unless you've worked at a vet clinic and seen the damages, don't say it's so obvious because it isn't if there are dogs going in with such injuries. Have you never seen or heard a small dog pulling and then coughing afterwards? Based on what you said, probably not.

[dbo]

Originally Posted by Nlkko

Neutering will reduce his aggressiveness no doubt because he's no longer frustrated at not being able to find a mate, but it doesn't teach him that you're the boss.

From what you said, he definitely has dominant issue. Showing teeth and growling is pretty bad but can be fixable with a little persistence. Like I said, started by doing the little things, the most important ones:

- Shelter: All humans walk through the door first, including your guests. He doesn't go in until you invite him in. He will try to sneak in. "Kick" him out. Make him sit down and say "Wait" or something like that. You will have to repeat it again. Do so until he sit and wait without your presence. Then invite him in. You HAVE TO do it consistently. My dog now know to fully lay down and wait whenever I get home. The above also apply to your sofas/rooms/chairs.

- Food/ Water/ Toys: He does not eat when he's hungry. He eats whenever you want him to eat. Sounds cruel but in the dog world, the pack doesn't eat until the pack leader allow. You can set any feeding time you like but don't do it randomly, follow a routine. Now when you feed him, only offer the food if he's calm. He cannot jumping around. Make him sit down. Tell him to wait. Then wait until his eyes are off the food plate and on you. Yes, he must look at you. He cannot make any whining noise. Will take a long time at first but will work. When he's calm, put the plate down. He will try to go at the food. Do not allow that. He must wait until you offer him the food by saying "Go eat" or whatever. Do the same with food that was accidentally dropped on the floor. Food on the floor doesn't mean he can eat it because you haven't offer that to him. All of the above apply to water/toy. Occasionally, be a dick and take away the food/toys while he's with them. Be careful and pay attention to his reaction so you don't get snapped. Use an object to protect yourself and just block him away from the food/toys. Make him sit down, stay calm and then offer them to him.

- Hiding under the furniture: Never allow him to go under the furniture at any time for any reason until his behavior changes. Dogs see such places as a place that can defend him against you. Sounds funny but it's true. He must not sleep under the furniture. He must not eat under the furniture. He must not play under the furniture. He can't even chill under the furniture. Block the place. You don't have to do it physically, just says no and "kick" him out whenever he tries to get under.

- Walking: You lead the way. Not him. He cannot sniff unless you slow down and allow him. He cannot stop unless you want to stop. Sounds cruel but again, think about the alpha dog.

- Urinating: Only punish him if you have taken him outside and he insist on releasing inside. If you haven't taken him out then it's not really his fault. If it's his fault, punish him by make him stay in a corner. Make sure you do right after he pooped so he knows what he's being punished for. Make him stay in the corner for I don't know 5 minutes. Nobody talk to him, play with him, call him during that time. If he moves from the spot, move him back and make him sit there. Call him whenever you're ready to forgive. try not to pet right away though.

The MOST important thing is you MUST NOT at all time, back away when he's showing teeth and growling. That is the sign of defeat and will not help.

All that reinforcement is great and all but will work better if you give him plenty of exercise. Walk him a lot. Give him something to kill time in the house. Mine loves the little squeaky toys and the dental bones but different dogs have different taste.

Watch the Mastering Leadership series. Everything I've learnt have been in there.

Thanks for all of your advice! I have been trying the not letting him lead part when I take him out for walks and I think he knows something is up because I only let him sniff when I want vs. him sniffing every tree on the block. It is hard when I am not the only one who takes him out for walks so I have to make sure everyone in my family can stick by me on disciplining him.

[Nlkko]

^Yes, the collapsed trachea is a result of incorrect use of the leash. To be honest, for people who aren't accustomed to it, a snap and release leash correction is kinda hard to master. I mentioned other methods such as a slight nudge on the side. Works pretty well with mine. The purpose is simply to divert his attention from whatever he's fixating on.

OP: It's best to anticipate the reaction and give slight corrections before it escalates. Anticipate the appearance of another dog/kid and give multiple small corrections because when he's going at it, it's already too late.

Another thing I've found to work wonder in terms of keeping my dog from being distracted is giving him something to do. I give him his most favorite toy (a tiny rubber soccer ball) to carry by his mouth and he seems to focus on carrying the toy instead of stopping, sniffing around or paying attention to other people/dogs.

Edit: Yea, everyone who interact with him have to do the same thing you do or it will be impossible. Try talking them into it. Everyone has to be consistent so he knows that every member in your family ranks above him and he cannot turn to one particular person whenever he's being discipline. I hope he will get in better shape soon. Do let us know the progress!

[Lil Bastrd]

I've been training for 10 years. I have adopted dogs that are considered trouble dogs. Obedience classes are great as they allow you to see other techniques and styles of training. Why wouldn't you use a controlled setting in which to teach your dog. No dog is hopeless, and going to group classes is a bonus. I do train at home I also train in a group training setting. I teach kids competitive obedience and Rally. My dogs get their canine good neighbour test. It's not dumping money. I don't care if you are famous and have a tv show, it doesn't mean you are the be all end all dog trainer. I have worked with enough daschounds to see a trend. I'm not saying they all are. Like most little dogs they are encouraged to react to their fear.

Originally Posted by Nlkko

^Sure let's dump money on training classes because you're too useless to do it at home. And "Daschund can be a timid breed"? What kind of garbage...

I don't think Milan is a god in the dog training world. I think he's fucking amazing for showing people that no dog is hopeless and many of his techniques is so simple anyone can do it home instead shitting money out of the ass and bring to a trainer.

Go back and read your reply to the OP, man. It's useless. The best suggestion you can give is go to a trainer. People like you only contribute to the overcrowdedness of the pound and thousands of dogs being put down.

[Nlkko]

^Whatever floats your boat. Like I said, nobody can ever please everyone. Nobody ever said Milan is the be all end all dog trainer and that includes himself. I only recommend his videos because what he showed is in great details and so easy to replicate and apply in every day life without spending a dime, which is what most people prefer. It's also a great dog training education and pretty entertaining, not like some boring documentary or study from some random bloke. I guess I'm old school and don't like looking for help when I haven't even tried anything.

Nevertheless, I'd say we get on with it and help the OP with tips instead of going on and on about stuffs that he aint really looking for.