Newbie to detailing.
 

Hello everyone,

I have signed up an account a while ago but havent really posed much. However, I saw this detailing section by chance today and here are some of my collection. Enjoy =)

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3631730_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4480260_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...2_332843_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1088218_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6216000_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7790482_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._8347145_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4779737_n.jpg

nice work lee

Looks good when are you going to start on mine lol?

Sorry, no offence but you buffed out some light cosmetic scratches and now you call yourself a detailer?

Hi bluejay, I am just a newbie to this and I was having a hard time to look for my previous pictures which were done on friend cars.
Here are a few more .... enjoy:)

Here you go ..

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2785972_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1871985_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2466151_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7466635_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6626532_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4855851_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6121584_n.jpg

pm me how much you charge please. :) thanks

I know black is a pain to do, but are those holograms that I see?

hello there. If you are referring to the trunk picture below the yellow clay bar. Then yes.... they are hologram and it is a before and after shot.

I was referring to the after pic on the fender.

That`s just a reflection of the sun.
I have found another picture ....

may be some senior members can enlight me on that?

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5445225_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...96676400_n.jpg

good job!

now, the question is: do your products have silicone in it?

I used Adam swirl and haze remover and then chemical guys mirror finish as glaze. After that , either top it up with Collinite 845 or 476 , depends on how much time I have.

according to the dealers, they claimed their products are silicon free.
well, once again , please share your knowledge.

Any other good combinations you recommend?

hey Lee,

I've never heard of the brands that you use. But don't let my opinion judge you by any means. There are sooo many different brands out there that I've always felt that you should use whatever you feel works for you. Everyone has their own different way of doing things.

I asked because "back in the day", a lot of the products had silicone in it, and that was one of the components that made it really easy to hide swirls.

I've been completely disillusioned by the products of the detailing world. I think that 99% of all the products out there are all marketing. I've seen one product line sell so much crap, it's disgusting: you had NEW CAR POLISH, BANANA CREAM POLISH, MILD POLISH, MED POLISH, CUT POLISH, DARK COLOR POLISH, BC2 POLISH (don't ask me what BC2 is... once again, marketing). Hell, I've even heard of a detailer use the term FOUNDATION POLISH.. like wtf is that?!

I'm sorry but I can't tell you how I used to do my polishing... No, I don't have my own business... I actually have never owned a polisher or a clay bar in my life! I've only detailed as a 9 -5 job, not on the side.

my only recommendation to you is to learn how to wet sand and polish on factory paint. I've always felt that anyone who's used a buffer can buff out light scratches and "cut polish". My version of "cut polish" is that I actually wet sand the car and then "cut polish". Of course this depends on how old the car actually is, and if it's based on a single stage or double stage (base/clear) paint. Obviously you're not going to go wet sand a 1967 mustang with original paint... well, you still could if you were careful and had the experience, but at that point it's too risky.

Hope this helps

Hey Zephyrantes, thanks for the feedback. I agree with what you mentioned as I have gone through different forums. Most people stated it is all about marketing , may be a normal product with fancy packaging or scent will jack up the price of the product.

I always try different products on different cars, then I will write down the formula which produce the result that I want.

I still got a long road to learn. May be next time, I should attend Ken's seminar !

It's probably just the reflection.

Silicone vs non-silicone products really depends. One of the many factors is where you will be using it. If you plan on polishing in a body shop, silicone products cannot be used.

Hmmm , would you mind to enlight me with that please?

Oh, nevermind. Did my own research. Silicon is not safe because it will create unstable environment to the paint on auto body.

Good to know... so if i won the 649 , I will open my shop.. =)

lottomax winnings are usually larger =P

I wouldn't advise just wetsanding for no reason. Wetsanding is really a last resort if you have a scratch that is just a tad too deep.

Only other reason you would need to wetsand is to remove orange peel and such other defects. However, you are taking away a lot of clear.

Last thing you want to do is burn through on someone elses car.

Nice work so far. As for the products you are using, they are fine. Adams is a good brand as is CG and Collinite. One thing to consider though is that the Colli 845 has such a high solvent content that it will remove the glaze as you apply it. If glazing first, use the 476 or just about any other sealant/wax. Wetsanding is not something that should be done just because. In most cases you are better off to leave any deeper scratches because even if you do remove it, chances are good that you have left such a small amount of clear coat that removing any future scratches in that area will be impossible without going through the clear. With the clear coats as thin as they are these days, I wouldn't consider any other than a single stage correction without using a Paint Thickness Gauge. We've had new Porsches etc in the shop with reading under 100 microns and alot of Ford trucks are below 80 from mid door down. Yikes. Keep up the good work.

Thanks ken for the positive comment and advice!

I used Collinite 845 to winterize my car - worked great, so far it seems to be holding up well.

Ken, re: 845. Is it just glazes that get stripped by it? I've read of people putting sealants underneath like Wolfgangs or Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Detail my car pleaseeee, i'll buy you beer :thumbs:

Truenosan: you're right about the risk of burning through the clear. Which is why there's a difference between someone who simply cleans a car, and another who can truly turn a $1 paint job to look like a million bucks. I've always used wet sanding to remove scratches right off the bat, because I just don't want to waste my time with the cut polishing. To me, if I ever have to cut polish, the sandpaper comes out first. I've been wet sanding and polishing for years, and at one time in my life, it was a 9-5 job, 6 days a week. So now, whenever I look at paint, all I see now is orange peel.... Once you've done it long enough, you can feel when the orange peel is gone as you're wetsanding (which is when I switch over to 2000 grit).

I've had a friend pay a detailer $300 only to have him boast how "smooth" his car felt. Well, all one really needs to do to accomplish that is a good wash, clay bar and wax. I felt sorry for him, and just nodded my head.

Mind you, yes, I will admit that I've had many moments where I've burnt through paint, and it ruins your day/week... there's no forgiveness in wetsanding. So, you are correct.

I hear you on that, and agree with you 100%. I've been there as well, I know and understand exactly what you mean.