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Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

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Old 02-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #26
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personally i'd rather do a B18C5 or a JDM ITR B18C instead of a B16B. Better torque, more power and relatively close in price. B16B's are still very expensive because of how rare they are.

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Originally Posted by Spoon_Fed View Post
...and frankly, Honda should have had a b series motor in the CRX from the factory, or at least in the Si models anyway...
JDM CRX SiR has a B16A

but yeah, I wish they did that here too instead of the weak D16A6.
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:10 PM   #27
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I meant for the USDM market

We already know, Japan keeps all the good stuff for itself!
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:23 PM   #28
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OP. Does it have to be a CRX? What about a JDM ITR or even a USDM ITR?
If it has to be a CRX, how series is the autos part of it? If autos is just for fun then I'd say go B20 Vtec swap with a JDM ITR tranny- Either GSR brakes or up the stock brakes with better pads and lock for VX rear aluminum drums, koniyellows with Ground Control coilovers, sway bars and brace
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:41 PM   #29
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any pics of nice crx's?
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:40 PM   #30
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I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but if you're
planning on Auto-Xing whatever you end up building it moves you to
higher class.
Had a gsR that I installed a greddy turbo kit (8lbs boost max) and I was running
in the street modified class... Did not do very well
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:16 PM   #31
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How much do RHD CRX SiR's go for now a days with the glass roof?
I asked around nearly two years ago and got quotes ranging from 7-9k landed and through customs, plus tax on top.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:26 PM   #32
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One thing I forgot to mention, with your $10K budget, you also should budget some of that money to fix up the car. Even if you get a MY91 car, it is over 20 years old and you may have some general maintenance items to replace like bushings, and tie rods. And you may still have rust issues.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:38 PM   #33
 
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I asked around nearly two years ago and got quotes ranging from 7-9k landed and through customs, plus tax on top.
completely depends on the options the car has as that sounds low from what i was told. my guess is that might not even be a glasstop ef8
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:33 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SumAznGuy View Post
One thing I forgot to mention, with your $10K budget, you also should budget some of that money to fix up the car. Even if you get a MY91 car, it is over 20 years old and you may have some general maintenance items to replace like bushings, and tie rods. And you may still have rust issues.
True, but the CRX is so dirt cheap that I don't mind it being a bit banged up. I am not planning on keeping this car till I die anyway- and more money towards mods. Sure the budget is 10k, but I'd like to go under budget as much as possible. Your suggestions of a JDM car won't work because alas, the significant other has no idea on how to drive left handed and freaks out at the sheer thought. THis will still be a daily driver. and a USDM ITR is about 5gs out of my budget. I basically want to build a cheap ass N/A daily driver that is peppy and agile enough to do auto-x once in a while and gets me to point A and B in a fun, yet gas saving way. Otherwise I'd go all out and just get a 240sx and drop a sr20 in there. With the abundance of mods available for the CRX, cheapness of the chassis and the weight of the car, it won't take much to make it go fast, handle nicely and stop on a dime. With the CRX chassis, I bet I can build a pretty decent car around 8gs.

As for the people suggesting the B18c1, I thought about it, but I wanted to do as little mods to it as possible, and keep it NA. I know the B18 is boost happy, but I don't really want to turbo it- just make a fast rev happy car. Though about the B20/vtec engine, but are they stable? Heard some horror stories of them in the past. Plus, securing a B20 block and seperate b18 top end and a separate tranny is a chore.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoon.ek9 View Post
personally i'd rather do a B18C5 or a JDM ITR B18C instead of a B16B. Better torque, more power and relatively close in price. B16B's are still very expensive because of how rare they are.



JDM CRX SiR has a B16A

but yeah, I wish they did that here too instead of the weak D16A6.
I was under the impression that due to the B16s size it would be an easier swap than a b18? correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:44 PM   #36
 
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umm i believe the block sizes are the same and you dont want some shitty rusted ass crx. depending on the mounts your going to have vibration throughout the car.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:02 PM   #37
 
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for example
car: 1990 honda crx
engine+ tranny: Vancouver Civics Club Forum
thats 4200. for a crx that looks clean from the pic and a good motor from the sounds of it.
say 500 for some good mounts.
1000 for general things to get the engine up and running.(new axels etc)
that leaves you with about 4000 to spend on the suspension.
camber kits, lca's, springs/struts, new bushings +exhaust if you want.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaz View Post
for example
car: 1990 honda crx
engine+ tranny: Vancouver Civics Club Forum
thats 4200. for a crx that looks clean from the pic and a good motor from the sounds of it.
say 500 for some good mounts.
1000 for general things to get the engine up and running.(new axels etc)
that leaves you with about 4000 to spend on the suspension.
camber kits, lca's, springs/struts, new bushings +exhaust if you want.
Sell the B16 tranny and get this one.

$500 for an ASR adjustable rear swaybar if you are serious about autoX.
$200 for new ES bushings
$800-1000 for Koni yellow shocks and Ground Control coilovers

Also, set aside some $$$ for a new steering wheel and quick release hub since the stock wheel is garbage.

$800 for a 5 bolt ITR brake conversion and aother $200 for new pads and SS brake lines

And you'd still have to factor in some $$$ for labour unless you can do it all yourself.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:52 PM   #39
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Of course it'd be fun to run a B18/B20 or even a Kswap, I won't mind running a D-series in a CRX myself. Seems like D-series never dies no matter how you abuse it and relatively cheap to replace when something goes wrong? I could be wrong, but both these guys runs D-series & looks like it was a whole lot of fun:

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Old 02-06-2012, 03:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Of course it'd be fun to run a B18/B20 or even a Kswap, I won't mind running a D-series in a CRX myself. Seems like D-series never dies no matter how you abuse it and relatively cheap to replace when something goes wrong? I could be wrong, but both these guys runs D-series & looks like it was a whole lot of fun:
It's true. You'll always have WAY more fun driving the piss out of something you don't really care about. You start sinking a ton of money into whatever project, and you get a bit worried you'll bust something.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #41
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Or you can save urself money and just get a B20B and change to a shorter ratio gear box.
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:16 PM   #42
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wat about a JDM ITR 96 spec?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:26 PM   #43
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completely depends on the options the car has as that sounds low from what i was told. my guess is that might not even be a glasstop ef8
Yeah, I doubt it was as loaded as yours was. My only criteria was the glasstop
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:33 PM   #44
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10k for a 20+ year old honda making 185hp....at the motor...

I hope you have the crx already, seeing as how you can get an R32 GTR for that money, or a GTS-T for much less. or an S13 for next to nothing, or add $400 and get a 350z or G35c.



Just a few examples from the nissan world, you could do much better, assuming you don't have the crx already
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