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Avoid EBC Yellow - terrible on E63. Ferodo DS2500 max temp range is low and they fail by chunking and leaving deposits on rotor. StopTech Sport also kinda fades.
You really have two options - CSG CP or Project Mu HC800. My buddy who has won 0 spec 86 and daily drives has done a ton of track days on both.
I've driven them, no squeal. HC800 is rated for 800C but limited applications, CP is rated for 700.
CSG would be Carbotech equivalent iirc for Euro application. Carbotech is good for street/track.
I'm not sure if the recommendation of pads on an 86 would really apply to a F80 M3 as that's a significant weight difference.
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|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
Got another recommendation quiet dual duty pad, rated for 7-800C?
Have not found one so far.
DS2500 is only rated for 550C.
Most American OE dual duty is an even weaker "DS2000" on ZL1 (650HP, 3900lb), GT350/500, etc.
Carbotech AX6 is really noisy, only 530C, website says "NOT FOR STREET USE".
Their 1521 dual duty pad is quiet but maxes out at 426C, "NOT FOR ANY TRACK USE".
Edit: I have not tried Powerstop PSA HPDE pads but they're supposedly low noise... just wicked dust and wear.
Rated for 650C.
There's nothing really that can do hard track duty and still be civilized on the street for a car like the F80 at Mission. The amount of energy is simply too great.
The M3 fared a lot better at VIMC as the track is not as brake heavy.
The difference between my MS3 and M3 at Mission is 7 seconds, as in the M3 is 7 seconds faster based on my PB of both cars. Granted the MS3 was on regular summer tires whereas I'm on 200TW with the M3.
I'd put the EBC Blues at the same level as DS2500. The pads from all the brands all typical line up in the same brackets. The bit I'm very happy with the EBC Blues are they still function on the first application even when it's below freezing out. Would the DS2500 be the same? Maybe but I'm happy with the Blues.
I debated whether to get proper track pads this year, but since I didn't go to Mission I decided to skip. I was seriously considering PFC11. The M3 is a kid carrier first and track car third, I kind of want it to be at least somewhat civilized.
So this POS, after repairing the coolant leaks, i got it driving, only to find out it has several heat soak issues.
Pulled injectors,
Spoiler!
c7 ptsd
most of them ohmed out poorly.
Purchased new ones, installed after nearly a day of diagnostics and messing around.
ONLY to find out the new injectors run worse than the old ones. How is this possible!?!?!?!
Surely i missed something on re install. Went over the car several times, nope, nothing missing.
Only thing left was to re install old injectors and see what happens. Did that, old injectors run just as bad as new ones.
Pulled plugs, plugs ohm all over the place despite looking "ok".
Purchased and swapped plugs, with old injectors, car runs good when cold.
Round 3, swapped injectors back to new ones.
And the car is good to go! Starts, and runs way better than ever!
For some reason the AC was not working, little surprise for me
Took it for a 30 min drive, ran good up until the last 10 mins, mother fucker started bogging, AGAIN
Who wants to guess what is heat soaking now?
I have a riddle for you guys that understand ignition order
The shitbox has the following listed on the engine bay.
The numbers on the engine bay match the actual ignition coil tags / coil backing plate.
The car showed up wired as follows:
The car starts, and drives without hesitation with the above wiring.
If i try and match the coils to the cylinders, the car will not start / run.
Am i retarded? Why does the car run completely miswired, but when you match up the spark to the cylinder, it does not start?
-------------------------
I checked the EGR, yeah its caked, but all solenoids work and pistons move freely. Probably black from the failed injectors / plugs.
-----------------------
Ive changed the ignition coils and spark plug wires, car still runs like ass after it is up to temp.
Im officially a parts changer.
Almost ready to throw in the towel on this and drop it off at a shop
--------------------
Someone mentioned the IACV, you would figure this would cause idle only issues, not full throttle bogging.
I removed it, set it to the shut position, put it back in, and removed the wires, the car would obviously die in park, but it ran the same as when its plugged in, like ass.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Money i hate people who sound like they smoke meth then pretend like they matter.
Originally Posted by ilovebacon
Does anyone have a pair of 25 pounds one-inch hole for sale at a reasonable price?
Originally Posted by Gerbs
For $6xx for 2br 2ba, they can shit in the elevator and key my cars
I have a riddle for you guys that understand ignition order
The shitbox has the following listed on the engine bay.
The numbers on the engine bay match the actual ignition coil tags / coil backing plate.
If i try and match the coils to the cylinders, the car will not start / run.
Am i retarded? Why does the car run completely miswired, but when you match up the spark to the cylinder, it does not start?
I don't think you're retarded, but GM engineers are... my memory is a bit foggy from working on some old GM V6's in a different lifetime, but I believe the ignition coil fires on both sides for these engines... so the cylinder that's firing gets 1 charge, and the other cylinder that shares valve overlap with the firing cylinder gets a secondary charge with the polarity reversed. The numbers, confusingly, are talking about which cylinders are valve overlapped not which way you put the wires on.
__________________ There's a phallic symbol infront of my car
Quote:
MG1: in fact, a new term needs to make its way into the American dictionary. Trump............ he's such a "Trump" = ultimate insult. Like, "yray, you're such a trump."
bcrdukes yray fucked bcrdukes up the nose
dapperfied yraisis
dapperfied yray so waisis
FastAnna you literally talk out your ass
FastAnna i really cant
FastAnna yray i cant stand you
inside joke is in 1995 BMW freaked the fuck out after seeing my 2nd gen RR and immediately ordered to design the 3rd gen
__________________ There's a phallic symbol infront of my car
Quote:
MG1: in fact, a new term needs to make its way into the American dictionary. Trump............ he's such a "Trump" = ultimate insult. Like, "yray, you're such a trump."
bcrdukes yray fucked bcrdukes up the nose
dapperfied yraisis
dapperfied yray so waisis
FastAnna you literally talk out your ass
FastAnna i really cant
FastAnna yray i cant stand you
Are you sure you don't have the banks flipped? is the rear banks first cylinder closer to the belt than the front banks first cylinder?
This guy knows what he is talking about
You are correct, the intakes cross over each other, and it makes sense because they all match up. You can just barely see the intake tags in the photo below
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Money i hate people who sound like they smoke meth then pretend like they matter.
Originally Posted by ilovebacon
Does anyone have a pair of 25 pounds one-inch hole for sale at a reasonable price?
Originally Posted by Gerbs
For $6xx for 2br 2ba, they can shit in the elevator and key my cars
Too bad it isn't about flipping cars to lose money, I'm really good at that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWorks
This wouldn't happen if you didn't drive a peasant car like an Audi...
Quote:
[14-05, 14:59] FastAnna You tiny bra wearing, gigantic son of a bitch
[15-05, 10:35] FastAnna Yeah I was dreaming of those big titties in that tiny bra
Picked up a used set of OEM 18" BMW 640M wheels for winter. They were in okay-ish condition but still needed a bit of cleaning.
Spoiler!
I started with cleaning the wheels with some wheel cleaner and iron remover but some of the brake dust was too stuck on. Proceeded with a traditional claybar, and followed up with a tar solvent to remove as much of the brake dust as I could.
The finish was marred up due to the claybar, so I did a quick two step correction with Griots fast correction cream and Sonax perfect finish.
Bought a new set of 'M' wheel decals, and center caps since the wheels didn't come with any. Mounted a new set of Continental Viking Contact 8 and then ceramic coated with wheels and applied a tire sealant. The tire sealant claims 3 months of durability, so I'm curious to see if it will last me to the end of January. All in all, it took a few hours of work to bring these wheels back to life. They don't look half bad now for used OEM wheels.
I also bought a used pair of 5mm spacers. And since I'm already insane for trying to restore used OEM wheels, I went ahead and laser cleaned the spacers to get rid of all the surface rust. For no other reason than why not?
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
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