Help on adjusting coilovers
 

Hey everyone, I'm trying to adjust my tein basic coils on my prelude. I know that on most coilovers, there are 3 rings, but I have just 2 (can't adjust damper). I'm wondering ath do I do to lower the car? Coilovers look like the ones down here. (Have tried loosening the lower ring and the lower ring moves but upper one won't budge)
http://www.autocityimports.com//imag...vers-Basic.jpg
also...I'm doing this with my wheels on..how the hell do I remove them; because they have an inverted bolt pattern and nothing fits.
Attachment 19419

Attachment 19420

you only have 2 collar rings at the bottom of the spring. 1 is to lock other is to adjust. so back off the locking to adjust raise or lower the upper collar.

i suggest using a wire brush to first clean off the threads on the coilover. then soak the thing in rustoff or some sort of rust/lubricant, if you have access to an air gun, use that first to clean off any loose dirt before adjusting

do not adjust these on the ground, at least jack up the corner first.

Turn the rings towards to ground, that will lower the car (should be to the left and jacked up of course).
And… can't see shit in that picture captain. But I think you mean you fit a key on the inside instead of a regular socket lug? If so you'll need the key, like this http://www.gorilla-auto.com/graphics/1921XL.jpg

I've actually got it soaking in WD40 right now. To lower it; basically I have to bring the upper ring to the lower ring? Because I'm able to move the Lower ring with little effort. The upper one...I can move it if I go super saiyan but it just moves back...feels like I'm going 2 steps forward and 1 step back every time

edit: edited picture above. What I mean is my lug isn't like the traditional ones that I'm familiar with. Nothing fits in or over the lug. I can remove the wheel lock though.
2nd edit: Yea..I'm assuming that's what I'll need. Any idea where to get that locally? And my car's jacked up and accessing the coil rings are actually pretty easy

You're gonna have a hell of a time with it.. Took me forever to drop my car another 1/4 inch all around because the rings are so tough to turn even with WD40 and lubricant.
As for the key, try any sort of a Kal-Tire/OK Tire or some place that specializes with wheels/tires. Although I wouldn't trust them with ANYTHING else though.

Heh...planning to drop it an inch since I've got 3 fingers of clearance..I'll try again in an hour or so :ahwow:

First. Make sure you're threading it in the correct direction.

Get a torch. Heat up the ring, not the threaded body. Get that fucker hot. 4-500F
Wire brush the threaded body.
Blast threaded body with brake clean. Wipe.
Spanner on the ring, and hit it with a rubber mallet. You'll hear a crack.

Once it's loose, thread the ring towards the cleaned threads.
Wire brush some more, and add Never Seize.
Keep threading both rings back and forth until it spins freely, making sure there's at least a thin layer of never seize, or WD40. If it doesn't, keep cleaning.

You probably have rocks/pebbles stuck in the threads. It happens. When I cleaned the threads on my coilovers, I had a handful of little rocks/sand from all 4 corners.

Also.

You said the Locking collar is loose, but the Perch collar is stuck?
Are you able to spin/move the spring at all? Sounds like you preloaded your springs.

Should I still hear a crack if I can move the ring? Its not completely stuck. Its moveable but it tries to turn itself back every time
Edit: yes, I can easily move my locking collar. I can't move the spring because mine isn't the twintube design :okay:

Twintube/monotube refers to Shock internal design, not the Shock casing.
They're all the same. Threaded body.

Is the car off the ground? The Perch collar shouldn't thread itself back..

Yea, car is jacked up. Wheels are on though.

How are you able to do this with your wheel on?

Somehow there's enough clearance...:lawl: I can stick the spanner in and latch on to the rings

I can only imagine how awkward that is. Get the proper tools get the wheel off so you have access to all the areas you need. Then get to work.

As others have said once you have backed off the locking collar the perch should be able to be spun (although not easily), if it is stuck hit it with some PB and come back to it in a bit.

I really don't understand how if you manage to move it the perch down it started to re-thread itself. That makes no sense.

Here's my attempt to show you guys what I mean. The perch ring moves, but as you van see, it does so barely. The bottom locking ring is easily moved

hahahahaha you're never going to move it like that, lol. you have to have the wheel off and use two hands and reef on it. remember these springs hold up your car and to compress them it's going to take some force.

but since you're lowering the car it will be way easier then raising it. at first the friction of the spring on the two metal supports (the ring on the bottom and the top mount up top) may cause you to move it a half turn and the spring will rotate it back a quarter turn. but the looser the ring gets the less pressure on the spring and eventually you'll be able to rotate the ring without it moving back. as well depending on ho low you're going you may be able to grip the spring by hand and use it to rotate the ring with out using the tool, which makes things faster.

I had two hands on the thing prior, but holding a phone and doing it at the same time...didnt work out lol. I'll be getting the tool tomorrow hopefully and I'll be on my way to being lower... But just to clarify; to lower the coilovers, I spin the top ring counter clockwise?a

yes, to lower the car you want to lower the ring which lowers the spring. to lower the ring twist it counter clockwise as you would to unthread a bolt.

well just fallow the lower ring, they should both spin the same way.




as well you probably wont be able to set each spring at the same height because of weight difference across each wheel. for example my car has a FWD transaxle transmission, which means my left front spring must be set higher to account for the engine weight. were as my right front is set lower because the transmission side is lighter. the rear was about the same for my car but it may be different for yours.

This thread makes my head hurt.

Put a pipe over the spanner and use it as an extension. You won't be able to move it otherwise.

Unless you have a heated garage.. wait till the temperature goes back up to +5 or so before attempting it. Things get brittle at this temperature.

As for your wheels, they look like triple squares.

why is your wheel still on the car?

take the wheel off to get you more clearance.

so you are trying to lower the car?

spin the lower locking colar all the way down, first, this gives you more room to adjust the top color, 2nd, it exposes the threads to see if there is dirt, rust, whatever thats preventing you from adjusting them.

chances are, if you have not adjusted them within a years time, there may be some corrosion, you may need a center punch to one of those teeth on the colar just enough of an impact to break it loose.

and these are teins right? the adjusting wrench should have 2 holes in it, 1 is a hex hole, other is a 1/2in socket hole. if need be, for more torque, you can add a 1/2 drive wrench to the adjusting wrench to make it longer, or use a hex bolt socket w/ wrench for the same idea.

Have you ever considered the thought that maybe you're just weak?

Just need more force, simple as that.

Done a tone of these and you just need to lube it well and greak the ring loose from the spring. You are fighting the rubber at the top of the spring, that is why its bouncing back on you.
Breaker bar/extension on the wrench, remove the wheel and do it properly. Otherwise pay someone who knows what they are doing and has the tools to drop the car.

Bought my lug key...gonna try it again. I'll let you all know what happens