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The B18C swap would be easier since there is a B16A in there already. However, the gains may not be worth the hassle. A K20 swap might be more gratifying but will cost more. I like the B series because of the hydraulic clutch. I'm not a fan of the cable shifting in the K series. Honestly, Mindbomber nailed it. Toss in some cams, upgrade the valvetrain and maybe even a thinner head gasket. Boom, ITR(ish) powa!!! Boosted power and N/A power are completely different so that would need to be decided before anything. I would rather have 230whp N/A than 320whp turbo on a FWD Honda platform. That's just me though. |
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To install higher duration cams (ie. stage 1, 2, 3) and a supporting valve train would run $1000-1500, and that's pretty economical for the size of the power increase. To install a turbo system that would give you 250whp at 10psi would run $2500-3500, which is also pretty economical for the size of the power increase. |
Lol, I'm going back to stock-ish so I can get collector plates and cheap insurance in a couple of years. Z6/Y8 at most hahaha |
This thread feels like 5 years ago. |
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another option you could consider is what I did. b16 head, b20 block. the b16 sorely lacks torque and this definitely helps with that. if you want to build both the head and block like i did, it gets expensive rather quickly. |
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