I would get a 1999-2003 nissan maxima v6.

Bang for your buck, powerful reliable, luxury and looks decent.

1991 Nissan maxima

1991 Nissan Maxima Reviews - Carsurvey.org

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rd...466874391.html

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/va...500001187.html

Hocus Focus

E36 325i manual

http://www.m3addict.com/e36-bmw-m3/e...bmw-m3-002.jpg

Depends on their needa... Maybe pickup a scooter instead... If its a car, there are tons of sentra ser spec v if he wants something different

Lamborghini Aventador

^he's on a budget dude

nissan gtr is way better suited for the price

My mom is selling her corolla 2002 $2000 pm me for info

Your PM box is disabled

ae86. INITIAL D BROOO

We've narrowed it down to this:

1998 Honda Prelude SH

any advice on what i should look out for while looking at it?

Ask for receipts for the timing belt/waterpump and see if they changed the tensioner at that time. Also, make sure the clutch is in good shape. Steering doesn't go out for no reason, so I'd get that inspected. Could be worn bushings, TRE's, balljoints, bent arms, etc. Check the trunk for leaks. Listen for rattles in the rear suspension when you're test driving.

Prelude will have the highest insurance rate over Corolla/Civic/Integra.

As ICE BOY said, make sure everything is in check. That car has been advertised for a while now. It sounds good on paper although I didn't want to bother checking it out (I suspected it was more than just an alignment issue, and the longer it's posted for sale, the more I think so).

Have an inspection done for sure, hopefully they'd be able to see if it was something major causing the steering to pull.

Preludes will burn oil. Check for areas of oil in engine bay and make SURE it ain't coming from the head gasket. Mine leaks one or two drips a day from the cam seals (notable areas to check: Valve Gasket, Oil filter gasket, spark plug gasket, cam seals, fuel rail area, and under area under the distributor). Also check the rear wheel wells for rust. While preludes dont rust as notoriously as a civic, its still there. Its usually just on the wheel arch area.
Its also a type SH so note if the ATTS light thing is lighted up on the cluster. The electronic ATTS system on the 5th gens suck as they always malfunction.
Otherwise....cars good. Had mine for almost a year with no major problems. Will drink oil like an Irish man in a pub so tell your friend to always check it maybe once every two weeks (have to fill a quart or so in between oil changes)

I know everyone's situation is different, but for a minimal cost, I would correct an alignment issue before selling. IMO, that issue might distract a test driver from noticing anything worse. Proceed with caution.

More like do not proceed! Bells are ringin' all around...

I love the 5g Preludes, I've been DDing one for the past couple years and they're a blast, enough power to have fun getting around but still 8l/100km hwy, 10l/100km city. The sound you get from a CAI when hitting VTEC is heavenly.

Like other have said check for oil leaks and keep a close eye on the oil, the H22 is an interference motor so get receipts and the milage for the timing belt/water pump work. Be sure that the tranny feels solid because the SH has a different block and tranny that aren't compatible with other Honda tranny so if it goes you're gonna be paying out the ass for another SH tranny (they're in demand due to the autos always dying) or a motor swap. Check the clutch pedal arm for signs of cracking as that is a known problem as well. The owner putting 91 in it is a plus since they require 91 but hardly anyone knows this so most use 87. Also I noticed the one front reflector is white and the other is orange, maybe ask wtf is up with that. Take a good note of how shifting into 1/3/5 feels, the shifter cables on the 5g are known to stretch out (if you're having to push all the way to the very top to get the gear they're on their way out) but you can swap to a 4g shifter and cables really easily if that happens.

Lastly be sure that they've got the red programming key for the car or a spare factory key programmed for the car (chip in the key), there's a factory immobilizer tied into the ECU that can only work with the matching OEM keys or it can be reprogrammed with a new OEM key using the red key. You can bypass this feature using a kit IF you have the key or at least the head of the key, but if you lose the keys without it bypassed you're buying new keys, locks and a new ECU.

edit: oh and trunk leaks are fairly common so check the spare tire well for water, it seems to be more of a snow-related thing though.

Good call. Totally forgot about the red key.

Appreciate the advice guys! Checking it out later tonight will report back!!

No hate for the Prelude, but you do realize insurance will be in the $2400/year range for a new driver right? That's like 2/3 of the purchase price.

For a $3500 purchase, you probably want to stick with the corolla or civic for cheaper insurance.

Or if you're a risk taker, just don't get extended insurance, given the purchase price, you'll be ahead after a two years.

Forgot to mention, he is an experienced driver with class 5 so no N, with some discount under his license so insurance is not of any concern at all.

THE ANSWER IS ALWAYS MIATA. 92 Mazda Miata

With my N, I am paying $2200 with comprehensive. Without it, i'm looking at 1400 for the car alone + 400 for 1M liability