Need a 12v switched source for LED lights
 

Hello all and thanks in advance for your help. I drive a 2008 Acura CSX-S.

I bought LED DRL lights and I have a wiring harness to wire everything up. My wiring harness draws power from the car's battery to run the LEDs so what I need now is a 12v switched source that turns hot when the ignition is on and cold when the ignition is off. Ideally, this switched source would be located in the engine bay and close to the car battery.

I have fog lights and have thought about tapping into the fog lights but wanted to run the LED DRLs independently.

Anyways, any ideas would be appreciated.

BTW, for further clarity, I have ruled out tapping into my parking lights because I didn't want to have to "do" something to turn on my DRLs. But if there's no other way to have a switched 12v power source in the engine bay, then tapping into my parking lights is Plan B.

Thanks.

At the fuse box, find a fuse that is part of a circuit that comes on with ignition. Tap into that using an "add-a-circuit" fuse tap.

Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive

The add a circuit things are rated 10 amp, so pick a fuse location that uses 10 amps or less. Just to be safe. Also, make sure you purchase the right size add-a-circuit for your fuse panel. ATM, most likely, for your car.

That's a pretty good option and worth considering. I'll see if I can find this "add-a-circuit" thing locally before buying it from Amazon. Do you think a place like Lordco would sell this?

Anybody else with a different idea? Would like to consider all available options before choosing one.

Lordco for sure and so does Canadian Tire. I've even seen them in Walmart.

If you're getting it at Lordco and don't have an account, use Revscene's account. It's not a very big discount, but a discount nonetheless. Just say Revscene as account name.

What does "ATM" mean in your sentence above?

Oh, ATM is the fuse type. ATM = Mini fuse. ATO/ATC = regular size. It's just a code.

for more info.........


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)


EDIT: Found something way better

http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/9...a300d46bd9.pdf

Here's a picture from my owner's manual of the under the hood fuse box.

To which fuse would you recommend that I plug in the "Add-a-Circuit" kit?

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps736a70a3.jpg

lordco has these for roughly $10.99

^^ I would suggest audio amp circuit. Is there another fuse panel, by any chance?

Edit: that's you under hood fuse box. There's one under the dash somewhere. I was wondering why the usual suspects were missing.

There is not another fuse panel within the engine bay. The other panel is in the cabin by the driver's side footwell.

BTW, I picked up the "add-a-circuit" kit at Lordco. Based on your earlier post, I thought I'm supposed to pick a fuse that's 10A because that's the rating for the circuit kit. Is it okay then that I add the 10A kit to the 15A audio amp line?

Thanks for all the help; this is really useful stuff.

I should have read your original post more closely. I was thinking of running the trigger wire from inside the cabin.

Here's yet another alternative. I like this idea better. I've seen this before years ago but couldn't find it again until now.

The Access

Click on the "Instructions" link to get an idea of how it works.

Imma gonna order me some, LOL.

^ leaving the quick connect uncovered :heckno:

The alternative sounds acceptable; however, I liked your idea of the add-a-circuit kit better. Besides, I've already picked up the add-a-circuit kit from Lordco during lunch today.

Can't wait to get home so that I can test fit the wire harness and fuse box connections.

I assume the user would connect the exposed quick connect. That is the purpose of the fuse in the first place. I would use a flag quick disconnect on something like that to save space, although they say you can bend the male end over. I love the way their ATC one swivels down. In any case, it sure beats those fuse taps that go around the fuse body.

Leaving any kind of electrical exposed is stupid, the problem I have with those funky fuses is that if one blows you're SOL unless you have another one. And if you blow only one half it's worthless.

I'm not sure why you would think anyone would install one of those fuses without using them as designed.

As for blown fuses, if the main one blew, it wouldn't be because of the added accessory as it is on a separate part of the fuse.

I carry spare fuses with me all the time. On top of the spares that are on the fuse box next to the useless fuse puller. Which is funny because I rarely have to replace fuses, just other people's.

I understand that the two fused links are separate, but if you pop one link you can't fix it without replacing the whole thing with another funky fuse. With those add a circuit things you're using standard fuses that you can get anywhere.

You'd also have to be sure you'll have room for that thing sticking straight out, some fuse box covers sit pretty close to the fuses.

About the same as using an add-a-circuit, maybe less, because you can bend the tab right over, so it is the thickness of the quick disconnect. The add-a-circuit adds quite a bit of height.

So just to update this thread:

I purchased the add-a-circuit from Lordco for $11. Hooking it up to my fuse box was super simple; however, no matter which fuse I connected the add-a-circuit, my LEDs would stay on regardless of whether my ignition was on or off.

See the picture below of how I wired it up under Plan A.

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9fe1abc3.jpg

So I decided to go with Plan B, which in hindsight, made more sense and enabled me to turn on/off the LED DRLs with my parking light switch.

Here's how I wired it up.

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...psce086311.jpg

Here's what the finished product looks like.

A night time shot that same evening that I wired everything up and finished my installation.
http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc1cfa1cf.jpg

A day time shot the following morning.
http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps80cfd46b.jpg

Thanks everyone for your tips/advice. I really appreciated the help.

^did you switch the add-a-fuse around?

One side of the fuse connector on the panel is always hot and the other is not. Just turn the add-a-circuit 180 degrees and see if that works.

The Original USA manufactured & patented ATC/ATO add a circuit/line/tap Fuse Plug


Check out link. Damn, you can order the add-a-fuse for $2.10 each!!! Directly from the manufacturer.

Too good to be true? I'll order a few and let you guys know. I install stuff for friends all the time, so a few lying around is a good thing.


EDIT: $3.82 shipping to anywhere in US via USPS First Class mail. Lynden, Wa 24/7 Shipping has $1.00 shipping promo on this month, so not bad a deal. I should order two dozen and sell them at a profit to RS members, LOL. NOT, I don't want mods getting upset at me. I've send e-mail to them to see if they have the low profile mini add-a-fuse in stock. If they do, I'll order some then. I have a few mini and regular add-a-fuse in my garage, so in no hurry.

I do not know if this is exactly the proper way to do it, but what i did was ran wiring from my battery, through switches at my center constole, and then to what ever i wanted

i have 4 switches in the 4 pop outs, located in the center constole of my integra.

1 for my dual cigerette lighter jack ( lets face it, 1 is never enough )
1 for my fog lights
1 for my underglow, and grill leds
and 1 last one for glow on the inside of my car.

If you have questions u can just Pm me, or come check out my Teg at the thursday night meets, and i'll gladly show you the way i have done it.

P.S - For my fog lights i have a fuse wired in on the posative line, since they draw a fair amount of power, its better to play safe and put a fuse in.

I would love to be on drugs and in your car

Did you end up buying any?

Yup. They came in pretty quick. Gotta love the United States Postal Service.

Tap into that using an "add-a-circuit" fuse tap.http://weber.$$$$$$$$$$$$.com/3.jpg