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Old 06-12-2015, 02:01 PM   #26
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Yes, Brembo blanks are made in China, but they are made to Brembo standards. They have to meet TUV and DOT standards. The same factory that makes the Brembo blanks also makes a no name, cheap line that has no DOT/TUV testing.

I know this because I was formerly a rep from Brembo in North America and have been to there factories in Italy.

Made in China is not the problem, its the standards that the products meet. A lot of the eBay stuff is simply made using cheap material. Most of them will work, but do you really want to risk your life on some dirt cheap rotors? Spend $20 more each and get the cheap stuff from local suppliers. If they fail then you have an option for return/exchange/warranty.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:15 PM   #27
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are there still fake brembo parts still floating around on fleabay?
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:26 PM   #28
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Always will be.

At one trade show I went to there was an "asian" section of all the parts suppliers from China and surrounding areas that offered products. They knocked off everything.
Some of there products were hilarious. There was a line called Blembo.....needless to say my bosses were not pleased to find out about that but I had a good chuckle.

Brembo is good about cracking down on fakes, but there are just to many places knoking stuff off that they cant touch.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:57 PM   #29
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I think we all agree that the cheap rotors are Lordco/Vancouver Auto Parts/Pacific Parts are fine.

Just don't cheap out on the brake pads
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:26 PM   #30
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I think we all agree that the cheap rotors are Lordco/Vancouver Auto Parts/Pacific Parts are fine.

Just don't cheap out on the brake pads
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Cheap rotors + good pads
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #31
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If you guys care about braking performance, do flush your brake fluid while you are at it.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:23 PM   #32
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As many have already mentioned, when it comes to tires and brakes, use the best within your budget. They are the last thing on a car you want to cheap out on.

If you search hard enough, you might find some US seller selling good sets (as in pads+rotor) or kit for cheap.

I remember when I got my Mini, and while randomly looking performance part online, I found a complete set (everything) of Brembo drilled kit for just under 2k, regular priced elsewhere for 3k+.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:12 PM   #33
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I recently ordered 17 dollar front rotors from rockauto. They work fine.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:16 PM   #34
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i've never been able to match pads with rotors. I always seem to get squeeking noise and the only way i was able to stop that was to get the shitty pads from Lordco to go with my shitty rotors from Oreally.

This time I'm looking for a 'matching set' that will work well.

The Hawk HPS and Akibono names have come across. Same as Worldpac. I have no idea on any of these brands! For rotors they are Pilenga.

Any of heard of these brands?!
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:20 PM   #35
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Brake Kits - OE Replacement Kits

I've personally used brake rotors + pads from this company. They're actually not bad. After the break in, they feel just like any OEM pads + rotors. Free shipping from Ontario. Email and ask them for CAD pricing though.
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:32 AM   #36
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The Hawk HPS
Hawk is the brand, very good pads but are very dusty.
HPS is their street pads. OEM replacement but a lot dustier than OEM.
Less than OEM braking power and easier to get brake fade vs OEM.
I'd stay away from those pads.

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Brembo drilled kit for just under 2k, regular priced elsewhere for 3k+.
I'd stay away from drilled/slotted rotors.
Save some $$$ and stick with the blanks.
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and icing on the cake, lady driving a newer chrysler 200 infront of me... jumped out of her car, dropped her pants, did an immediate squat and did probably the longest public relief ever...... steam and all.

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Old 06-13-2015, 08:39 AM   #37
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Drilled/Slotted rotors will DECREASE breaking efficiency unless you also increase the rotor size to compensate.
Whenever you drill or slot a rotor you are removing surface area and that means less friction generated. They only aid in cooling of the brakes to fight fade.
Unless you are doing some SERIOUS track driving, or use your brakes to the point where heat dissipation of a stock blank is surpassed, there is no reason to use a slotted or drilled rotor other than for a look.
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:46 PM   #38
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We had local cheap pads on the C230K, it squeals like no one and horrible grip. At the end, I paid much more to have them all replaced with better pads.

Like other said drilled rotors are not good for daily driver.

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Old 06-13-2015, 10:07 PM   #39
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i need to do my rotors and pads very soon.

shop suggested Hawk HPS, but i know they dust quite a bit. would the hawk ceramic pads be a better choice?

i can't decide on rotors.
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Old 06-13-2015, 10:38 PM   #40
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Hawk is the brand, very good pads but are very dusty.
HPS is their street pads. OEM replacement but a lot dustier than OEM.
Less than OEM braking power and easier to get brake fade vs OEM.
I'd stay away from those pads.
Those don't sound like very good pads. I haven't heard good things about hawk pads from many people.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:06 PM   #41
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Track noobs love them lol
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:13 PM   #42
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dukes only likes his pads 1 way

Spoiler!
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:28 AM   #43
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hawk/akebono pads. Great stopping power with no noise or dust
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:38 PM   #44
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hawk/akebono pads. Great stopping power with no noise or dust
ALL Hawk pads will be dusty. I've used HP+, HT10, Blues, DT30, and truck ones and they are all dusty as heck.

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Those don't sound like very good pads. I haven't heard good things about hawk pads from many people.
It's just the HPS pads which were meant to be more the OEM replacement type pads. They call it sport, but for the price of them, I would stick to OEM.
This was on my B15 non Brembo SE-R.

After that, I've only used HP+ for the street/autoX and HT10 on the track with the S2000 and ITR.
Currently, the Shitvic has DT30's and the CRX is running track and DD duties with Hawk Blue's.
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and icing on the cake, lady driving a newer chrysler 200 infront of me... jumped out of her car, dropped her pants, did an immediate squat and did probably the longest public relief ever...... steam and all.

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Old 06-17-2015, 02:39 PM   #45
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i've never been able to match pads with rotors. I always seem to get squeeking noise and the only way i was able to stop that was to get the shitty pads from Lordco to go with my shitty rotors from Oreally.

This time I'm looking for a 'matching set' that will work well.

...
A "matching set " will not stop the squealing. (example: race cars)
In my experience: metallic pads have close to 100% chance of squealing due to metallic particles in the pads, the cheap stuff you bought were probably organic brake pads (those don"t last long). if you want something with good performance/life and quiet but a little more expensive go for ceramic brake pads.

squealing can also be caused by debris(rocs/sand) caught in the pad

for fun go to your autoparts ask to see the different pads they have for your vehicle you will see the difference in the braking compound

but remember if switching out pads there is a break in procedure included in the box usually.
if changing compound type I suggest replacing the rotors also or have yours cut if they have good life left,cuz the compound from the previous pads might not make your new ones function 100%, but that is just to get the job done perfectly.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:48 PM   #46
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i used ebay rotor with dtc60 on mission before.
originally the rotor had slots..
after one mission day, they became blank... not sure if it was the rotor being cheaply made due to material or the dtc60 just chews through rotors quick.

but all in all the rotor held up.
i got brembo blanks now for mission, and i use the ebay rotor with some cheapy pads for daily.
not hard to stop the car if you only go 60km city driving :P
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:56 PM   #47
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after one mission day, they became blank... not sure if it was the rotor being cheaply made due to material or the dtc60 just chews through rotors quick.
Only real way to tell is pull out to measure the rotor thickness vs a new rotor.
That being said, the DTC60's race pads are very hard on rotors when they are cold so it is possible that the rotors wore down quite a bit from the pads being cold.
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and icing on the cake, lady driving a newer chrysler 200 infront of me... jumped out of her car, dropped her pants, did an immediate squat and did probably the longest public relief ever...... steam and all.

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Old 06-17-2015, 06:02 PM   #48
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Dude, just go to Canadian Tire: Auto Parts | Canadian Tire

I did a favor and searched for your Acura EL.

Front Brake Rotor
$29

Certified Brake Rotor - Front | Canadian Tire

Brake Pads
$44

ATE PremiumOne Ceramic Brake Pads - Front | Canadian Tire
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:15 PM   #49
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Drilled/Slotted rotors will DECREASE breaking efficiency unless you also increase the rotor size to compensate.
Whenever you drill or slot a rotor you are removing surface area and that means less friction generated. They only aid in cooling of the brakes to fight fade.
Unless you are doing some SERIOUS track driving, or use your brakes to the point where heat dissipation of a stock blank is surpassed, there is no reason to use a slotted or drilled rotor other than for a look.
Drilled/slotted rotors aren't always good.

Just look at McLaren P1's Akebono brakes.


Toyota Brembo Formula 1 Brakes
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:20 PM   #50
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some brakes had big drilled holes




in comparison, modern exotic cars don't drill huge holes..

Bugatti Veyron


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