notchy shifter when cold.

boooo

Fuel Economy
250km 65L fill......

I have the exact same problems. I'll probably upgrade the headunit and buy some sylvania silverstars.

Fuel economy: not great but not bad. (28/36 MPG) and I get around 400 km a tank. The tank is kind of small, only 13 gallons.

engine is alright but needs to be revved out. Thankfully it's dohc. Around 5-6k RPM the entire cabin starts buzzing.

Shitty low rolling resistance tires - no grip in the wet.

Outdated 4-speed slushmatic - could really use a fifth gear
fun fact: Toyota still uses it in the '15 base corolla

open diff - left wheel does nothing while the right spins endlessly

horn - super wimpy. Had to install an aftermarket air horn.

windy windows - great for weight reduction, bad for everything else

cup holders in the rear are flimsy


no fking aux jack and no cassette player

Same here, she drives completely different cold vs warmed up.

What kind of transmission fluids are you using? and what does the manufacturer recommend?

With certain transmission, even though the manufacturer allows for GL4/GL5 fluids, and certain MT fluids call themselves GL4/GL5 compatible, they may not work particularly well in the transmission. Switching to a pure GL4 fluid might alleviate a lot of the symptoms and difficulties with shifting.

Not the biggest gripe, but the rear seats in the IS300 can't fold down.

WTF

using oem honda fluid right now. got one to recommend?

On the different cars I've had, I've had good results with Motorcraft (ie. Ford) synthetic manual transmission fluid (XT-M5-QS), various grades/viscosities of Redline gear fluids (MT90, MTL, 75W80, etc.) These are all GL4 fluids that do not have EP / friction modifier additives. But for a Honda, I am hesitant to recommend something other than OEM Honda fluids. So you might get better results with someone who is more familiar with them.

the heat coming from the transmission tunnel / engine bay is almost unbearable at times.

old car problems. got leaks galore

i just changed the fluid to motorcraft xt-m5-qs 75w90 on my speed3. It's around $24 a quart at ford dealership right now. lots of mazda vehicles like miatas, rx8, and speed3 use that this fluid a lot. you could try that...or i also tried redline and i thought it was pretty great.

My biggest gripe with my car 90% of the year is, I crash and I die (25 year old civic) #YOLO :toot:

In the summer though, it's lack of power windows (wankin' my winder up and down)

#oldcarproblems :QQ:

G35 thinks it's having all you can eat OIL.

$24 only?! Which dealership did you get that from? Earlier in the year when I called a couple of places, one wanted something in the high $20's, and one wanted $32 for a bottle.

Not everyone has one. :(

Do yourself a favour and don't buy tinted halogen headlights. As much as the light manufacturers want consumers to believe that blue-tinted halogen headlights are brighter because they are "whiter" and the filament burns hotter (which in some cases they do), the actual lumens produced is dimmer than say, a regular non-tinted totally clear bulb halogen bulb. It's simple physics, tint filters out light and the blue tint simply makes the light more visible to the human eye, while dropping the lumens.

Trust me, I've tried 4-5 different kinds of tinted halogen bulbs from MTEC to PIAA to Sylvania and Osram on three different cars. Aside from the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited which honestly didn't make an ounce of difference compared to the OEM bulbs, maybe a tiny bit brighter but could just be placebo, all the heavily blue tinted bulbs dropped the overall brightness noticeably at night, although it did produce a whiter light at the expense of reduced bulb life (the MTEC bulbs actually melted TWICE on me).

Finally switched over to HIDs in my existing halogen reflectors (flamesuit on) and have been using that for a little over a year, makes a huge difference in terms of brightness. I will defend my actions and say that I DID aim my headlights quite a bit downwards to alleviate the glare produced by HIDs in reflector housings and I never had anyone high beam me or friends tell me my lights are blinding when they're driving in front of me :badpokerface: I already have my H1 projectors sitting in a box in my room, waiting for the rest of my parts to arrive then taking off my front bumper, taking off the headlights and doing a proper projector retrofit :fuckyea: gonna be awesome.

tl;dr HIDs are the way to go, if you can't afford projectors then at least aim your headlights downwards until you can afford projectors or grow a pair and bake your headlights (cheapest projectors on Amazon which have good reviews are just a little over $40 so...)

It has been quite a while since I had tried the speciality halogen bulbs. Akinari is 100% correct that the blue tinted bulbs produces a lower lumen light. However, IIRC, the Sylvania Silver Stars are the real deal, and the GE Nighthawks were too, at least as far as my eyes can judge. The light they emit were both noticeably brighter and whiter than the standard halogen when I did a side by side test. However, the drawbacks common to both were their significantly higher prices -- the Sylvania Silver Stars were outrageously expensive, and the GE Nighthawks were just quite expensive, and both have fairly short lives -- both models died in less than a year, and I seem to think that the Nighthawks lasted a bit longer than the Silver Stars.

I have since gone back to regular halogens because I'd much rather spend my money on go fast parts than on lights that need replacing every 10 months. At the risk of jinxing myself, I think my current set of regular halogens have been going for almost 10 years now.