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Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

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Old 05-21-2016, 05:50 PM   #1
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Anyone Built a Megasquirt?

Anyone local build a Megasquirt before? I picked up an MS2. Apparently never used. I've tested with a Megastim and all functions seem to be working.

Electronics, nevermind circuitry are not my fortay.

I need to configure this bugger for my application. Currently wired for EDIS, but I will be using it in a 6 cylinder wasted spark setup with a 60-2 wheel. I'm fumbling my way through the manuals, and trying to get a handle of it by reading online but I think i'm probably missing a few basics.

Advice for anyone in the future. Buy full assembled, or completely unassembled. Working backwards is a PITA, especially when your learning how these fandangled things work.

If I'd gotten my first GF pregnant, i'd have a pretty tech savvy kid running around right now, and wouldn't need your guys help. But that didn't happen.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:58 PM   #2
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #3
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I've run Megasquirt on a couple different vehicles now and prepping for a third over the summer. Are there any specific issues you're having?

And yes, always try to pick up either a fully assembled or a disassembled unit. Nothing worse than trying to trace back poor solders or potentially faulty chips.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:45 PM   #4
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I thought I had seen someone was using one.

This was a pre assembled unit from DIY, just never used (So I was told). As I said, I hooked it up to a jim sim, and everything looks to be in working order. The trouble i'm having is working backwards with the manual.

Honestly, I don't find it to be that great of a "publication." Working backwards I believe I see a basic setup, with a Fuel Only type setup (the way the tachselect pins are wired), with the IGN to JS9(ign) - For edis, as well as a stepper idle valve jumper setup.

What i'm having trouble with, is how do I go backwards (removing the EDIS setup, and the fuel only setup) and wire in what i require. Which is the simple resistor method for a 6 cyl wasted spark using logic coils, and a VR sensor), without missing anything.

Since I have no experience with these things, i'm just tracing doohickies (Capacitors), with whatcha-ma-call-its(resistors) in a funny pattern. If someone local knew what they were looking at, it might save me from missing something obvious.
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Old 05-22-2016, 06:25 AM   #5
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Personally I would buy fully assembled (and tested) if you are going for MS3, MS2 is still manageable. Since things are more integrated in MS3 once you screwed up it is nearly impossible to repair.

The only advice I have is start on a bench where everything is laid out and tested first, get that working before you hook it up to your car.

What engine is it for? There are plenty of resources in the megasquirt bulletin board.

Last edited by godwin; 05-22-2016 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:00 AM   #6
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I hit a major milestone yesterday. Despite reading the manual a multiple number of times, I apparently stopped at the end just prior to the 3 pages of assembly instructions. This made things way more clear, and it looks dead simple to me now. I can work backwards with the instructions quite easily I think (No wonder I thought the manual sucked before, I missed the good stuff).

It is a MS2 3.0 board with the latest firmware installed. Will be installed on my Datsun L28 engine.

I'm still slightly confused why the guy had it setup the way he did.
Tach Signal - Fuel Only
Ignition Setup - EDIS
Does this make sense to anyone?
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:43 PM   #7
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Well EDIS is used for Ford setups that don't use distributors. I swapped to a coil-on-plug system for my KLZE build as the stock system had a tendency to overheat and fry itself, so I had to use bits out of the Ford parts bin to make it work.

Running fuel off the tach signal is a result of the above set up (no disty). Otherwise you'd run it off the current pulse from the disty rotor.

Edit: I would recommend picking up an extra CPU or two for your board. While it's not a common occurrence, you can occasionally accidentally fry your CPU during a bad data download, especially if your computer crashes. I always kept a spare with a decent tune on it (one that would allow me to drive home, though not with any major boosting,) and it came in handy after a bad download fried the chip. They're only $30 or so, and it's good insurance to have when you're on a drive.
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:05 AM   #8
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Historically EDIS is just the easiest system to find (and well documented and understood, I have even have an old Ford EDIS diagnostic kit somewhere)

Have you consulted the Nissan / Datsun subsection of the forum yet? http://www.msruns.com/viewforum.php?...2db96fabcc2abe

Do you have the sensors etc ready to go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hud 91gt View Post
I hit a major milestone yesterday. Despite reading the manual a multiple number of times, I apparently stopped at the end just prior to the 3 pages of assembly instructions. This made things way more clear, and it looks dead simple to me now. I can work backwards with the instructions quite easily I think (No wonder I thought the manual sucked before, I missed the good stuff).

It is a MS2 3.0 board with the latest firmware installed. Will be installed on my Datsun L28 engine.

I'm still slightly confused why the guy had it setup the way he did.
Tach Signal - Fuel Only
Ignition Setup - EDIS
Does this make sense to anyone?
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomac View Post

Running fuel off the tach signal is a result of the above set up (no disty). Otherwise you'd run it off the current pulse from the disty rotor.
This raises my eyebrow a bit. EDIS uses a VR sensory, but the EDIS module itself converts it to hall sensor type square signal for the megasquirt to decipher. Would you not hook the ignition up as a hall sensor?

Quote:

Edit: I would recommend picking up an extra CPU or two for your board. While it's not a common occurrence, you can occasionally accidentally fry your CPU during a bad data download, especially if your computer crashes. I always kept a spare with a decent tune on it (one that would allow me to drive home, though not with any major boosting,) and it came in handy after a bad download fried the chip. They're only $30 or so, and it's good insurance to have when you're on a drive.
I'll certainly take your advice once I get a little farther along with this project.
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godwin View Post
Historically EDIS is just the easiest system to find (and well documented and understood, I have even have an old Ford EDIS diagnostic kit somewhere)

Have you consulted the Nissan / Datsun subsection of the forum yet? Nissan - www.MSruns.com

Do you have the sensors etc ready to go?
I've looked over the Nissan section many times. The issue i'm having now is figuring out exactly how my current hardware is configured, so I can reverse it.


I do have some Nissan sensors I could use, but I think I may start from scratch using new GM sensors to simplify the process as well as try and mitigate any gremlins. The only thing I have in stone right now is a 60-2 wheel and 1/2" sensor mounting bracket. I will be picking up an Electromotive sensor which originally was designed for my trigger wheel. It is a VR sensor.

Everything else is up in the air. I've decided to go with 6 LSx style coils for simplicity's sake, and run them in Wasted Spark, (also for simplicity). I have 6 42lb injectors, although, I have to figure out how to mount them in my manifold and may require a different setup.
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Old 05-23-2016, 03:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hud 91gt View Post
This raises my eyebrow a bit. EDIS uses a VR sensory, but the EDIS module itself converts it to hall sensor type square signal for the megasquirt to decipher. Would you not hook the ignition up as a hall sensor?
It depends on what setup a car has. A stock l28 would require a hall sensor but can be adapted to a magnetic sensor. Both create the same result, it's just that MS reads it as a hall signal for simplification.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
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It depends on what setup a car has. A stock l28 would require a hall sensor but can be adapted to a magnetic sensor. Both create the same result, it's just that MS reads it as a hall signal for simplification.
Taking my car completely out of the picture it makes no sense the way it is currently configured.

Currently "Tach in" is setup to run off a distributors signal. The ignition is setup for EDIS. An EDIS system uses it's own trigger wheel and sensor. It's module figures out crank position, and sends a spark signal to the megasquirt to send to a coil. Atleast this is how I see it.

I read over my emails from the seller I purchased from, he says its configured for a Hall sensor. According to the manual, this is not even close to being correct (Configured to get signal from distributor for fuel only setup). This is where all my confusion comes from. This is why having someone look at the board and confirm the settings would really help. I posted photo's on the Facebook Megasquirt forum and don't seem to get much help from them either. I guess I just need to start desoldering items and start from scratch... Well, almost scratch.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:26 AM   #13
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What car was the original MS configured for? Is it for just Squirt or Squirt + Spark?

Don't desolder stuff if you can help it.. it can cause problems once you put things together down the road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hud 91gt View Post
Taking my car completely out of the picture it makes no sense the way it is currently configured.

Currently "Tach in" is setup to run off a distributors signal. The ignition is setup for EDIS. An EDIS system uses it's own trigger wheel and sensor. It's module figures out crank position, and sends a spark signal to the megasquirt to send to a coil. Atleast this is how I see it.

I read over my emails from the seller I purchased from, he says its configured for a Hall sensor. According to the manual, this is not even close to being correct (Configured to get signal from distributor for fuel only setup). This is where all my confusion comes from. This is why having someone look at the board and confirm the settings would really help. I posted photo's on the Facebook Megasquirt forum and don't seem to get much help from them either. I guess I just need to start desoldering items and start from scratch... Well, almost scratch.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:35 AM   #14
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The unit was meant to go into an old Mercedes conversion. The guy never finished the project and never used the Megaquirt, he only powered it up using the Jimstim.

I am planning on using it for Squirt and Spark. I have to change the tach input to read a VR signal as I will not have a distributor any longer.

I also need to reconfigure it for 3 ignition outputs for my 6 cylinder wasted spark.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:49 AM   #15
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I contacted the seller, he confirmed he had DIYAUTOTUNE build the board and set it up for him to use a hall sensor. I'm either really stupid, or it's no the same board. hahaha
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:43 AM   #16
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Finally figured out where my confusion stemmed from.

The MS2 I purchased has 2.883 software installed. Once MSextra is installed the manual calls for completely different board configuration. What a relief, I thought I was losing it.
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