REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

Hondaracer · 01-17-2017, 05:45 PM

So in our house I ran a bunch of cat5e prior to renovations etc. I ran two lengths which kind of snake their way through the house up into my office which run approx 80' to the Shaw Hitron modem in the living room.

For the two configurations in the office I want to do this:

Modem - punch block wall plate - patch cable

Which configuration should these be in? T568A or B?

Does it matter that I am going to modem - punch block - then the patch cable? Do I need a crossover cable for this?

I wired them both the same just with direct plugs, and currently I am getting a signal but a very weak one, barely detecting the >10mbs connection at the PC which seems kind of strange because in my experience typically this stuff either works as it should or doesn't at all?

Sitting in the same spot where the PC is I get 150+ MB/s over wifi

TOPEC · 01-17-2017, 06:45 PM

T568A or B does not matter as long as both ends are equal. If u do A on 1 end, then make sure all ends are A standard.

jing · 01-17-2017, 07:08 PM

How you ran your cable and terminated the ends can play a large factor in throughout speeds.

Eg. Running too close parallel with the loomex in your house, stapling it down too tight, shitty termination, shitty copper clad and not full copper cable, etc.

Hondaracer · 01-17-2017, 07:09 PM

Would it be possible to get a connection still if they are not matched?

Cat5e is pretty hardy in terms of pulling the cable no? I'm hoping I've either screwed up the connection in terms of plugs or just made a bad connection because it's virtually impossible for me to pull another cable

Hondaracer · 01-17-2017, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jing

How you ran your cable and terminated the ends can play a large factor in throughout speeds.

Eg. Running too close parallel with the loomex in your house, stapling it down too tight, shitty termination, shitty copper clad and not full copper cable, etc.

For the most part it's loose. However it runs along side some electrical on its way up to the attic..however interference is not too common in cat5e I thought?

Gonna be really shitty if there is a problem somewhere or it is truly interference.

I did a loop ping as well as pinging some websites and the ping and response time was excellent. But I guess that doesn't show how strong the signal can be?

jing · 01-17-2017, 07:31 PM

Code requirement is minimum 6" separation from power cabling. Realistically speaking it probably isn't a big deal if they're a bit close in a few spots but if you're talking the whole length I'd imagine it's an issue unless you ran shielded c5e which is unlikely. If I had to guess it's probably a bad connection on your keystones. Did you use the proper punch down tool?

TOPEC · 01-17-2017, 08:22 PM

take pics of the punch down block and the crystal, u may have mixed up the pairs somewhere along the line. if ur getting only 10Mbps, u prob only has 1 pair punched down correctly.

ur set up sounds right. modem -> patch cable -> punch down block -> in wall cat5e -> wall plate/crystal -> patch cable -> PC/router/switch or what ever device

chances r the in wall cat5e cable is mismatched at the punch down block vs the wall plate/crystal

Hondaracer · 01-17-2017, 09:06 PM

I will try to make the pair again tom and report back.

With the punch block, do you really need the punch tool or is using a knife etc enough?

TOPEC · 01-17-2017, 09:19 PM

If ur not using the punch down tool u may be just pushing the wire in without stripping the insulation correctly thus the pins not making proper contact with the copper wire. Though I did mine the same way, no punch down tool, just pushed into with a tiny flat head, but it's working for me lol. The punch down tool "slaps" the wire in with force so the pins "strip" a bit of insulation off to make contact with the copper wire.

nns · 01-17-2017, 09:23 PM

You don't need to have only T568A or B on both ends. Auto-MDIX allows a device to recognize the wiring pin out and adjust accordingly.

You can read about it here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium...dent_interface

godwin · 01-18-2017, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondaracer

Which configuration should these be in? T568A or B?

It doesn't matter as long as each end of the cable is the same.

Quote:

Does it matter that I am going to modem - punch block - then the patch cable? Do I need a crossover cable for this?

No.. you don't need a cross over.. you can now get self crimping keystones which saves a lot of hassle.

Quote:

I wired them both the same just with direct plugs, and currently I am getting a signal but a very weak one, barely detecting the >10mbs connection at the PC which seems kind of strange because in my experience typically this stuff either works as it should or doesn't at all?

It depends what you are doing. Anything lower than Gigabit don't use all the wires, so you might have a loose wire somewhere. Get a cheap ethernet wire tester (can be had for about $5) to diagnose.

Reeyal · 01-18-2017, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondaracer

So in our house I ran a bunch of cat5e prior to renovations etc. I ran two lengths which kind of snake their way through the house up into my office which run approx 80' to the Shaw Hitron modem in the living room.

For the two configurations in the office I want to do this:

Modem - punch block wall plate - patch cable

Which configuration should these be in? T568A or B?

Does it matter that I am going to modem - punch block - then the patch cable? Do I need a crossover cable for this?

I wired them both the same just with direct plugs, and currently I am getting a signal but a very weak one, barely detecting the >10mbs connection at the PC which seems kind of strange because in my experience typically this stuff either works as it should or doesn't at all?

Sitting in the same spot where the PC is I get 150+ MB/s over wifi

I've ran network cables at work and at home, and what I find to work the best is to use quality CAT5e/CAT6 cables and CAT5e/CAT6 male/female ends. I terminate ends with proper punch down or chip tools for good connections. If I don't get the desire speeds, I usually just replace the ends. Cables are rarely the problem, unless they are outside sitting in the elements.

From my experiences, up to 300 feet cables are good for 1GB speeds. After 300 feet, speeds tend to drop to 100MB.

For the A or B termination configuration, just pick one, and keep it consistent throughout your place.

You only need a crossover cable if you are connecting a device to another device which both are meant to be end-point devices. For example, if you are direct connecting a computer to another computer or a computer to a NAS, you will need a crossover cable. However, newer NICs nowadays will auto-detect, and you don't need a crossover cable. What can I say, I'm old school...

Soundy · 01-18-2017, 08:12 AM

Auto-MDI is part of gigabit spec, so as long as one of the two devices on a link is gigabit-capable, its port should be able to auto-switch. The only real reasons for maintaining A or B throughout is for legacy equipment, and just for consistency (or to satisfy OCD).

If you're getting a link and a working connection, but a very slow connection, I'd expect to find maybe one data pair reversed, or one data wire off (10/100 Fast Ethernet uses the green and orange pairs in T-568 wiring). If you're punching down a 110 jack with a knife, I'd say there's a good chance one wire isn't making the proper connection.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Hondaracer · 01-18-2017, 06:37 PM

Yeap had two pairs crossed in the connection at the modem.

Just got 182mb/s on Speedtest!

Lol what a relief..

Hondaracer · 01-19-2017, 09:54 AM

Fuck..obviously in hindsight it's easy to say but anyone who is going to be doing anything similar to me and building your own cables/wall plates, make sure you buy the kit with the crimper/punch tool/tester in one. The whole kit is $50 from Home Depot, just on the crimped and punch down tool buying them separately was over $65