replacing just one tire, question about load index and tread depth . |
Is your car AWD? |
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Tire is all-season, non low-profile tire if that makes any difference. |
it will be fine, especially since it is from the rear. Even left to right (on the drive axle) will normally have slight difference in wear due to torque output. Typically the threshold point to recommend the pair of tires is when the difference is in excess of 2/32" Will the other specs be the same? Treadwear, traction, etc I thought it was kind of odd that there would be a same tire but the load rating be slightly different, unless perhaps it's not exactly the same? or discontinued already? |
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I'm still confused about what treadwear indicate for? Is higher the better? If you look under specs in the link I provided, my tire is 205/60/R16, and mine is the only one that's 91H, being a Mazda. The other three 92H tires for 205/60/R16 have different treadwear, different section width, tread width, and one 92H has a maximum psi of 51 compared to all 44. and one tire has 812 revs per mile compared to 811. I didn't mention these because I thought these are not as important, do you see any red flags? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Speed+Rated%29 |
Typically with treadwear rating, the higher the better it is on tread life. So a 350 (Indy 500) for a Ultra High Performance Summer Tire is really good. This is why you see performance tires with a TW of 200 (RE71R). You'll have to look at the average treadwear rating for the category as well. That said, all manufacturers grade their treadwear life differently. |
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Treadwear rating higher would mean the tire would be longer lasting. And usually the comparison is within each individual manufacturer So if your tires are treadwear 600, you get a 640, your new tire will wear slower under equal conditions. if you have a 540, then it will wear faster. There is the one that I saw in your link that came up as a Ford spec tire that basically has the same spec as your Mazda spec, aside from the load rating increase. As for load rating 91H vs 92H, it's ok to increase the load rating and speed rating of the tire; you might not want to run a tire that is less that what your vehicle placard specs for, ie 89T or 91T. But then again, are you going to be driving at 210 km/h? And for the 812 vs 811 revs per mile, that's pretty much negligible.. there's going to be a few rev difference between a new tire and a slightly worn one anyhow Also one other question: you said you have 6000km on them... No road hazard warranty? |
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I checked the Bridgestone warranty card that came with my warranty and owner's manual booklet, it is not covered and I don't think any brand new car's tires will be covered in such a fashion like an accident such as a nail puncture to the sidewall. Tire manufacturer will be out of business if they covered something like that unless like you said you purchased a road hazard plan. |
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I'm not familiar with all the warranty plans out there, but try giving your dealer service department a call. I have replaced quite a few sidewall punctures under warranty at my workplace. The service writer should be able to look it up.. Worst they can say is no. But best scenario if it's covered. I don't really recall a time that I've gone up to the front desk to tell them the tire is unrepairable on a new car and they told me nope customer doesn't have coverage. |
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@320icar might be of better help here than me, as he should know most about tires. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk |
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Anyway, I don't know if the tire being repaired already will affect the decision making at all at the dealer (there is a patch and plug on the puncture) but I guess it doesn't hurt to try. |
Industry standard is as long as the remaining tires are 7/32 and above, one new tire may be purchased. For specific cars with picky awd systems, or to maintain proper rotation patterns they should all be within 2/32 of each other. TIA standards dictate each tire should be the same make, model, and service description (including load and speed rating) across an axle. The UTQG is not as important as it can only compare tires within the same manufacturer. So although the tire is going from a 91H tona 92H, often they are comparable if the actual make and model is the same. Industry qualifications change all the time and load ratings may be adjusted. When this happens the manufacturer will make it ‘backwards compatable’ You’d be just fine buying one tire |
One more question: If I'm asking the shop I want my repaired tire back (I will bring it back it home to use as a full size spare), do I need to pay the $5 disposal fee? |
The disposal fee is assigned to the new tire, so yes |
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