replacing just one tire, question about load index and tread depth

[anxiety]

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[BIC_BAWS]

Is your car AWD?

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

Is your car AWD?

sorry forgot to mention the most important piece: no it is FWD.

Tire is all-season, non low-profile tire if that makes any difference.

[coneZONE]

it will be fine, especially since it is from the rear. Even left to right (on the drive axle) will normally have slight difference in wear due to torque output. Typically the threshold point to recommend the pair of tires is when the difference is in excess of 2/32"


Will the other specs be the same? Treadwear, traction, etc
I thought it was kind of odd that there would be a same tire but the load rating be slightly different, unless perhaps it's not exactly the same? or discontinued already?

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by coneZONE

it will be fine, especially since it is from the rear. Even left to right (on the drive axle) will normally have slight difference in wear due to torque output. Typically the threshold point to recommend the pair of tires is when the difference is in excess of 2/32"


Will the other specs be the same? Treadwear, traction, etc
I thought it was kind of odd that there would be a same tire but the load rating be slightly different, unless perhaps it's not exactly the same? or discontinued already?

Good question! I thought I was the only one OCD about the stuff so I did not even mention treadwear which also will be different.

I'm still confused about what treadwear indicate for? Is higher the better?

If you look under specs in the link I provided, my tire is 205/60/R16, and mine is the only one that's 91H, being a Mazda.

The other three 92H tires for 205/60/R16 have different treadwear, different section width, tread width, and one 92H has a maximum psi of 51 compared to all 44. and one tire has 812 revs per mile compared to 811.

I didn't mention these because I thought these are not as important, do you see any red flags?



https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Speed+Rated%29

[BIC_BAWS]

Typically with treadwear rating, the higher the better it is on tread life. So a 350 (Indy 500) for a Ultra High Performance Summer Tire is really good. This is why you see performance tires with a TW of 200 (RE71R). You'll have to look at the average treadwear rating for the category as well. That said, all manufacturers grade their treadwear life differently.

[coneZONE]

Originally Posted by anxiety

Good question! I thought I was the only one OCD about the stuff so I did not even mention treadwear which also will be different.

I'm still confused about what treadwear indicate for? Is higher the better?

If you look under specs in the link I provided, my tire is 205/60/R16, and mine is the only one that's 91H, being a Mazda.

The other three 92H tires for 205/60/R16 have different treadwear, different section width, tread width, and one 92H has a maximum psi of 51 compared to all 44. and one tire has 812 revs per mile compared to 811.

I didn't mention these because I thought these are not as important, do you see any red flags?



https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Speed+Rated%29

I would get the one with the same treadwear, traction, temperature ratings..
Treadwear rating higher would mean the tire would be longer lasting. And usually the comparison is within each individual manufacturer
So if your tires are treadwear 600, you get a 640, your new tire will wear slower under equal conditions. if you have a 540, then it will wear faster.
There is the one that I saw in your link that came up as a Ford spec tire that basically has the same spec as your Mazda spec, aside from the load rating increase.

As for load rating 91H vs 92H, it's ok to increase the load rating and speed rating of the tire; you might not want to run a tire that is less that what your vehicle placard specs for, ie 89T or 91T. But then again, are you going to be driving at 210 km/h?

And for the 812 vs 811 revs per mile, that's pretty much negligible.. there's going to be a few rev difference between a new tire and a slightly worn one anyhow

Also one other question: you said you have 6000km on them... No road hazard warranty?

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by coneZONE

I would get the one with the same treadwear, traction, temperature ratings..
Treadwear rating higher would mean the tire would be longer lasting. And usually the comparison is within each individual manufacturer
So if your tires are treadwear 600, you get a 640, your new tire will wear slower under equal conditions. if you have a 540, then it will wear faster.
There is the one that I saw in your link that came up as a Ford spec tire that basically has the same spec as your Mazda spec, aside from the load rating increase.

As for load rating 91H vs 92H, it's ok to increase the load rating and speed rating of the tire; you might not want to run a tire that is less that what your vehicle placard specs for, ie 89T or 91T. But then again, are you going to be driving at 210 km/h?

And for the 812 vs 811 revs per mile, that's pretty much negligible.. there's going to be a few rev difference between a new tire and a slightly worn one anyhow

Also one other question: you said you have 6000km on them... No road hazard warranty?

I bought the car brand new and it is 5 months old, so the tires came with the car which have been driven on for 6000km.

I checked the Bridgestone warranty card that came with my warranty and owner's manual booklet, it is not covered and I don't think any brand new car's tires will be covered in such a fashion like an accident such as a nail puncture to the sidewall. Tire manufacturer will be out of business if they covered something like that unless like you said you purchased a road hazard plan.

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

Typically with treadwear rating, the higher the better it is on tread life. So a 350 (Indy 500) for a Ultra High Performance Summer Tire is really good. This is why you see performance tires with a TW of 200 (RE71R). You'll have to look at the average treadwear rating for the category as well. That said, all manufacturers grade their treadwear life differently.

Would you agree with coneZONE that I can replace one 92H tire with one 91H tire?

[coneZONE]

I'm not familiar with all the warranty plans out there, but try giving your dealer service department a call. I have replaced quite a few sidewall punctures under warranty at my workplace. The service writer should be able to look it up.. Worst they can say is no. But best scenario if it's covered. I don't really recall a time that I've gone up to the front desk to tell them the tire is unrepairable on a new car and they told me nope customer doesn't have coverage.

[BIC_BAWS]

Originally Posted by anxiety

Would you agree with coneZONE that I can replace one 92H tire with one 91H tire?

I don't know enough about the topic, especially load ratings to give recommendations. However, ConeZone, is actually qualified (and certified (?)) to give such recommendations.

@320icar might be of better help here than me, as he should know most about tires.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by coneZONE

I'm not familiar with all the warranty plans out there, but try giving your dealer service department a call. I have replaced quite a few sidewall punctures under warranty at my workplace. The service writer should be able to look it up.. Worst they can say is no. But best scenario if it's covered. I don't really recall a time that I've gone up to the front desk to tell them the tire is unrepairable on a new car and they told me nope customer doesn't have coverage.

The thing is, the tire has been repaired already by Canadian Tire, then I posted picture of the repair done on other forums and most people said it's too close to the sidewall so it should had been non-repairable to begin with, I don't know why the tech at CT decided to repair it. The advisor did not give me an option to repair it or replace the tire, they just went ahead and did it. I know usually shops will also just flat out say no, it's non-repairable. But nope, I got a very weird end result. I wanted to post a thread about it on here but I kept getting an error when uploading pictures.

Anyway, I don't know if the tire being repaired already will affect the decision making at all at the dealer (there is a patch and plug on the puncture) but I guess it doesn't hurt to try.

[320icar]

Industry standard is as long as the remaining tires are 7/32 and above, one new tire may be purchased. For specific cars with picky awd systems, or to maintain proper rotation patterns they should all be within 2/32 of each other.

TIA standards dictate each tire should be the same make, model, and service description (including load and speed rating) across an axle. The UTQG is not as important as it can only compare tires within the same manufacturer.

So although the tire is going from a 91H tona 92H, often they are comparable if the actual make and model is the same. Industry qualifications change all the time and load ratings may be adjusted. When this happens the manufacturer will make it ‘backwards compatable’

You’d be just fine buying one tire

[anxiety]

One more question:

If I'm asking the shop I want my repaired tire back (I will bring it back it home to use as a full size spare), do I need to pay the $5 disposal fee?

[77civic1200]

The disposal fee is assigned to the new tire, so yes

[anxiety]

Originally Posted by 77civic1200

The disposal fee is assigned to the new tire, so yes

ahh, good to know. I thought it is a charge for the old tire they are disposing for me.

[320icar]

Originally Posted by anxiety

One more question:

If I'm asking the shop I want my repaired tire back (I will bring it back it home to use as a full size spare), do I need to pay the $5 disposal fee?

You already paid the disposal fee when the tires were purchased. Same for electronics, you pay the future recycle fee at the time of purchase.