^ that looks easy as hell.
what was this bs if you're working on your breaking system you would need to bleed the system too or you're getting a mushy break peddle :fulloffuck: that was my only concern cause you pretty much need two people or rely on those shitty plastic kits that don't work.

Or buy those speed nipples. Basically a one way valve instead of the bleed port bolt.

Chances are slim to none a dealership will install outside parts, especially on a critical system.
1. Liability
2. Profit
Think, bringing your own steak to a restaurant and asking them to cook it.

I just looked at the rear system on your car. Are you sure the (internal) park brake shoes still have meat left on them? Just something to consider.

Also, did you try what I suggested with the cooling fans turning on? If they still stay on after that, it could be a temp switch or control module.

iono, i've installed customer supplied parts before. in fact, same job (but i don't remember if it was on an Altima or a G). Maybe it depends which dealer you go to?
Also in cases of parts that are NLA, they really have no choice but to start calling local parts stores...
For a 10 year old car that's out of warranty, you'd be wasting some amount of money sourcing these kinds of parts from the dealer lol.

^ it'd be a very good idea to inspect the e-brake shoes, but i'd guess they still be about 2.5 mm lol

My mechanic (who I 100% trust and is the best mechanic I’ve ever dealt with) says he only installs OEM pads.

Said generally even the performance pads from lordco etc are shit and he said typically the OEM replacements are cheaper than generic brand low-mid end pads anyways. He said the main issue with aftermarket OeM replacement is squeeling and life-span

That's a good point.
Also if you're looking for OEM equivalent for a possibly better price point, go with Akebono or Nissin. They are the manufacturers of the OEM pads
For a Nissan, i would stay away from the "Nissan Value Advantage" pads. They are literally re-packaged Lordco/Napa/Dorman/whatever shit pads, and be ready to experience the above quote

Here's a good brakedown.

Brake jobs just take a lot of cussing. But having the right tools can make a difference.

The price you pay a mechanic/dealer may sound like a lot, but you either do your own work, or give it to someone else.

and goddamn. Brakes and Breaks are not interchangable.

the fans are pretty much spinning on max and it kinda fluctuates from 80-100% speed. Yeah I tried turning the ac on/off, outside/inside circulation, etc. ( i know what you mean though, before this became a constant problem, ive heard the rad fan on high before and turning off the full max ac deforst usually turned off the rad fan as well) I think from a brief google, someone had the same problem and turned out to be the fan control module.

i don't know anything about internal park brake shoes but I just watched Ilovebacon's video.

From that video it seems like the problem would be the piston being stuck or the guide pin? since the dealer told me that the brake is constantly in contact with the rotor therefore at 0.1mm. Why would the dealer recommend changing the rotors too though? I guess they are tackling the issue from two points but the cause could be either warped rotors or fucked up calipers? should I try only changing the pads and rotors first like in the video?

i was nervous the first time diy it as it's a critical safety component vs blowing a motor but still be alive and not crash and burn if something does goes wrong

it's as straight forward as the video...you might stumble upon some rust/seized bolts but the learning/reward is worth the elbow grease...you'll likely need a special tool for the rear caliber piston. all in all i prefer it over an oil change/climbing under the car because you're not bent over in the engine bay/working with super tight spaces

never drove around with parking brake engaged so didn't have to worry about that, haven't had to change shims, no squeaks thereafter...yes i would change out the rotors on an 10 year old vehicle...hope not too much brembo tax

if you want the peace of mind and dont want to 'work' on a day off, by all means just pay a shop

Since the parking and rear brakes are independent systems, it's probably the sliders or the piston. They want to change the rotors because they're probably heat checked/cracked/too thin to machine. Generally, you don't want to install new pads to a rotor that been worn in by the old pads. New/machined rotors will run true and have a fresh surface for the new pads to bed.

Not sure why all the DIY vids don't clean the mounts, where the new hardware is installed. More often than not, the cast steel starts to scale and the hardware fits too tight and doesn't allow the pads to slide freely. Also, it doesn't hurt to make sure the sliders move freely and add some extra lube. I also hate seeing people take their wheels off for one reason or another and not bother to wire brush the hub centre, where the wheel sits. An extra 10minutes and thin coat of anti-seize, ensures your wheels are seated properly.

What did the dealer say about installing customer supplied parts?

Finally got off work early enough to call the dealer and they said I can bring my own parts. The ~1100 quote turned out to be 360~ for labor and 760~ for parts. So I'll save about $300 on parts if I order it myself. But the 360labor is for replacing rear right brake and only servicing the left brake so if i get them to replace both side, might cost ~1000 in the end.

Now the question is, if i buy thisdo I still need to order the caliper bracket, bushings, guide pin, piston? Looks like pistons are part of the assembly as you mentioned earlier but still not sure about the other parts or if its even required to replace.

Also thinking about just ordering an engine cooling fan module for $50 and asking them to replace it instead of paying $150 for them to diagnose the problem. A worthy gamble?

Kits like that usually come with the new rubber brushings, but you have to reuse your pins/bolts.

I would also recommend you get a discount cash account code from Lordco and cross shop. I notice sometimes Rock Auto and Lordco prices very are similar. That way you can buy everything and return whatever the shop says you don't need. Pm me and I'll give you a lordco acct.

Since the sliders go between the caliper and mount, I'd say that kit has everything you need.

If the labour quote is only for the right, my guess is, it'd be closer to $600 to do both sides and bleed them.

Definitely check local prices as well. Nothing beats brick and mortar if the price is close. Online returns, suck.

Revscene has an account with lordco for a discount.

ty for the tip trollface

Yeah local is better, does lordco have an online catalogue? (cant seem to find it) or do i have to call in ask/go to the store. seems the revscene account is #338593 did a quick google.

I gave up on local parts stores. They always quote me way higher prices for shittier quality parts. I've saved so much buying stuff online even if I have to pay for express shipping or eat the cost of ordering the wrong thing I'm still ahead.

In OP's case it's worth checking just cause all available parts are reman'd, so there's extra cost involved in shipping the cores back.

My local supplier is on par with online pricing about 30% of the time, plus tax. Otherwise, most of my parts are bought, online.

Which vendors charged you money for core returns?

RockAuto's core returns were free for me from Ontario > NY warehouse

Orly? Didn't know. I was going based on this:

https://i.imgur.com/GdFHgSZ.jpg

I believe the parts they sell are new and shipping the core is pretty much a rebate.

Shipping is around $100 so Id assume shipping the Core back is going to be same in which case it is not worth it to send back. Might use a post box in US though.

Ah true, my bad - I recall what happened now.

I was issued a free label for core return + parts return due to a messup on their side.

Yes, core returns require money

I sent back an alternator, from US PO, the core back netted me $7 LOL. Not worth.