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Need Electrical help (Soldering / Wiring) Spoiler! EDIT2: Ok... apologies to anyone who spent time reading my post... I re-soldered (heated up, moved the pre-existing solder around a bit, applied a tiny bit of new additional solder) to my T switch, and now it works.... o___O so, conclusion is, something was indeed wrong with my solder joint, even though visually it looked fine, and a closed circuit SHOULD have been achieved regardless.... I'm still confused, and none of this makes sense to me personally. But I am glad it works now! Thanks again! |
If the keys that aren't faulty can be bridged before the diode, and work, what are the diodes for? Do you have a multimeter with a diode test function? Is there anything that the faulty keys have in common (ie using the same row or column)? Are you sure there isn't a short somewhere? That's a lot of exposed metal in close proximity. Also I'd really suggest getting solder on all the connections. Alternatively use test leads with alligator clips so you're getting some pressure on there. Loosely twisted wires are a recipe for problems. |
Hi, thanks for reading / replying. Apologies, as I sorta resolved the issues. The diodes for each switch > Row is to guarantee you can press any number of keys and any combination of keys without issue (as you'd want to in a keyboard. I think they call it N-Key Rollover for keyboards). TECHNICALLY, you don't need a diode on EVERY single switch. But then, you'd have to figure out which combination of keys will require it... so it's much easier to just add a diode to each switch to guarantee all combos work. I don't know the details, but something about diodes makes the current flow only in one direction is supposed to resolve that issue? There are no shorts! I put in a lot of time and effort to ensure all wires are bent and clearing eachother. Probably the most time spent in this entire build is designing and bending rigid the wires xD I will be soldering the remaining connections tonight or tomorrow. But as of now, I have fixed the issues I was experiencing! I simply reheated the existing solder joints on the switches that weren't working and added a bit more fresh solder to the joints and now the keys all work properly. My DEL key that I mentioned as somewhat inconsistent did turn out to be a faulty switch, as I soldered / re-soldered its joints a few times and it still acted funny. I then de-soldered it and removed it. Put in a new switch and it now works correctly! Thanks to everyone who read through my long post. I apologize, as I made it in haste / frustration. Then solved the issues a few hours later. Probably could have saved you guys the trouble of reading it all xD |
Derp, yeah preventing backfeeding makes sense. I was thinking resistors for some reason. Glad you got it sorted! |
Wasn't sure if I wanted to bump this, as this is resolved, but thought I would post the completed project for anyone curious: https://imgur.com/a/CWTRpz6 Still working on my custom keycaps (Spiderman / Venom, etc). I have a Carnage, Gwenom, and Scream that are unpainted right now. They will be on the far left row (currently F1, F2, F3, F4) I am quite happy overall with the result of the wiring. Everything is in the open and exposed, with the gold-toned brass wires looking quite blingy. Thanks for reading! |
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