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04-03-2011, 08:04 PM
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#1 | | NOOB, Not Quite a Regular!
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver
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| Door Popper issue
Alarm brand is Clifford 53-843-01
so here is what happen, so I have decided to disconnect the trunk popper(which came with the alarm) I used that wire feed it thru the door and bought a 50Lbs door popper solenoid from http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...uct_Code=DP-01 and installed I had to feed negative directly from the battery. so everything work find, I was sooo proud of myself but after 20-25 tries (works every single time) it STOP working!!! I am pretty sure that the alarm(trunk release module got fried) because when I press the button, the alarm doesnt have the clicking noise anymore. every other things works normal so my questions are:
is it a fuse that is blown or the module from the alarm brain?
is there anyway or recommendation that I should do? I know nothing about alarm system. any recomendation will be great!! I love DIY but I guess I fail on this one haha..
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04-04-2011, 12:48 AM
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#2 | | Ye olde moderator
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Well, most alarm systems require some sort of relay to operate door lock actuators. If you ran direct, you may have blown the lock output on the alarm brain. Are you in the market for a new alarm anytime soon? 
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04-04-2011, 07:44 AM
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#3 | | NOOB, Not Quite a Regular!
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by orgasm_donor  Well, most alarm systems require some sort of relay to operate door lock actuators. If you ran direct, you may have blown the lock output on the alarm brain. Are you in the market for a new alarm anytime soon? | is there anyway I can fix the blown lock output on the alarm brain?
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04-04-2011, 10:08 AM
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#4 | | Ye olde moderator
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Originally Posted by Celica4ever is there anyway I can fix the blown lock output on the alarm brain? | Replace it with another brain pretty much.
I am not 100% sure that that is your problem. Diagnosing over the internetz can be challenging to say the least. Best bet is to bring the car by so we can take a look for you.
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04-04-2011, 12:19 PM
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#5 | | NOOB, Not Quite a Regular!
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by orgasm_donor Replace it with another brain pretty much.
I am not 100% sure that that is your problem. Diagnosing over the internetz can be challenging to say the least. Best bet is to bring the car by so we can take a look for you. | thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. "
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04-04-2011, 05:34 PM
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#6 | | Ye olde moderator
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by Celica4ever thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. " | Yup. Which will require a relay to bump up the output from 15 to 50 amps.
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04-04-2011, 09:43 PM
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#7 | | RS.net Licensed Sponsor
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by Celica4ever thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. " | 50 amps. Really? Most SPDT relays are 30 amps which have always worked for me with any aftermarket door opening systems.
While I'm not arguing the fact that you have probably blown up part of your alarm, you can use another output to achieve the same goal of popping your trunk from your alarm.
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