Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech This forum is brought to you by The Speed Syndicate (TSS) in Burnaby.
Discussion of maintaining your engine, transmission, differentails, rear ends, and mods associated with "driveline" parts..
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11-06-2009, 07:59 PM
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#1
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Everyone wants a piece of R S...
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Vernon, BC
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code 6 engine coolant temp sensor
like the title says...finished a engine swap on a 93 accord and this is what is coming up when i jump it.
I thought it was because of an air lock in the system, Ive bled it many differnt ways and still cannot clear the code.
I beileve im not clearing the codes properly..from what ive been told you have to remove a "back up" fuse for coolant and a/c control, you have to do this for 10 seconds and then start it again. i have done this everytime after I have bled the coolant but it still comes up.
was just wondering if anyone here knows somethin i dont. thanks for readin
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11-06-2009, 11:30 PM
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#2
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What hasn't Killed me, has made me more tolerant of RS!
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: coquitlam
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Here's how my train of diagnoise would go,
after bleeding the system I would reset the ECU by pulling the negative for ten minutes.
if the code popped up again I would change the sensor since there cheap and reset the ECU again.
after that, try tracing some wires, one of my buddys had a car that wouldnt pass aircare and it turned out the o2 sensor wires were backwards.
and if all else fails pull the bulb and call it a day
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11-07-2009, 12:33 AM
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#3
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My dinner reheated before my turbo spooled
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vancouver
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that's correct. remove the backup fuse for the ecu. to reset codes.
i agree with everything 00EM1 says except for pulling out the bulb lol.
that will only cause bad fuel consumption and you're just ignoring a problem.
but more than likely its just a bad sensor or disconnected.
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11-07-2009, 11:48 AM
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#4
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Everyone wants a piece of R S...
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Vernon, BC
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yeah ive tried pulling the negitive cable...also tried connecting the negitive and positive cable to drain any remaing memory out of the ECU to reset it, ive tried a differnt sensor (not brand new)
Is the back up fuse in the engine bay or inside under the kick pannel? and how long does it have to be removed? i was told 10 seconds...
does the car have to have power runnin when you pull it??
Last edited by neilb33; 11-07-2009 at 11:50 AM.
Reason: typo
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11-08-2009, 07:06 PM
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#5
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NEWBIE ACCOUNT!
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Kelowna
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Check the wiring between the sensor and the ecu using a multimeter.
There may be a short or broken wire; I had that problem with my CRX last summer.
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11-08-2009, 08:48 PM
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#6
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Everyone wants a piece of R S...
Join Date: Apr 2007
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yeah, do i test just at the connector that plugs into the sensor? what do i test for? resistance? i cant imagine a wire bein broken, everythings soo very clean.
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11-08-2009, 10:12 PM
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#7
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NEWBIE ACCOUNT!
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The simple thing to check is the sensor itself, there should be around 200-400ohms between the pins.
Then see if you have 5volts between the Red/White wire and Ground: If not there is a break between the sensor connector and ECU Pin D13.
Then check to see if you have 5volts between the Red/White wire and the Green/White wire at the temp sensor; If not there is a break in the wire between Green/White and D22.
Hopefully that works for you; It's straight out of the Helms manual.
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