You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Sports, Sports Entertainment and FitnessTHIS SPACE OPEN FOR ADVERTISEMENT. YOU SHOULD BE ADVERTISING HERE!
Athletics, Hockey, Soccer, basketball, organize games/events, aerobics, nutritional supplements. Also the home for sports and sports entertainment threads.
Some of you crazies might be looking at power meters.
Stages is clearing out their Dura-Ace 7900 power meter, compatible with all hollowtech 2 stuff, only caveat is you'd have a dura-ace left crank. The only difference from their DuraAce 9000 model for double the price is styling and 8g extra weight, everything else is identical model to model.
Does anyone use the new style Garmin cadence/speed sensor?
I used to have the older GSC-10 one and it worked alright for me until
my bike was stolen.
The new style seems better because of the way it is installed, no longer having to zap strap the magnets on the crank, and the sensor's arm doesn't stick out and risk damage.
However, the new style costs like $20-30 more than the old one and it's two pieces so that's 2 extra batteries required.
I've been using this kit no problem for about 6 months. These use accelerometers. No complaints, the Garmin mounts are really great since they can be removed in 2 seconds, and moved between different bikes. Other than that like you said the install is clean and preferable to the old method.
Well actually since I already had the wahoo RPM (identical to the garmin cadence other than mount and bt/ant with the wahoo) I'm saving the Garmin cadence sensor for a rainy day.
Unless you have a need for a second bike, or the old one is dead I would wait to upgrade.
RS.net, where our google ads make absolutely no sense!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Thanked 39 Times in 16 Posts
Few questions for everyone here:
1) What size tire are you running and why?
I'm currently riding 23c tires at 95-100psi and I'm 5'11, 176 pounds. Wondering if anyone has experience running 25c tires and if it offers a 'plusher' ride with a lower psi.
2) What cassette size are you running and why?
I'm running a stock tiagra groupset 12-28 cassette and 50/34 upfront. I don't really have plans to upgrade the entire group set, but I'm getting new wheels so I thought I'd upgrade the cassette. I would say I do a fair amount of climbing and I've found that having the 28 was handy for steep continuous climbs. The cassette I'm considering is 10spd ultegra either 11-28 or 12-30. Thoughts?
25's, because there's really no reason to run 23's unless your frame can't fit them, or you're an extreme weight weenie. LOl, no but really.
25s are faster + more comfortable, I'm not sure there are any downsides. I'm ~135 lbs and run them at around 75-80 psi. I sometimes let them down lower and its not a big difference.
I've ran Michelin Pro 4 Service course's which ran large at almost 27.5-28. Those were awesome. I'm running some GP4000S II's now to try something different and cause the michelin's weren't in stock. These are great tires too, but I think I'm going to go back to the michelins after.
The cassette is a very personal/subjective choice. If you feel like you could use an extra bailout gear then switch and try the 12-30. Otherwise if you're happy with the 11-28 I don't see any reason to change. I'm not sure you'll see much benefit from a cassette "upgrade" either. If you're going for a weight savings, keep in mind that the 12-30 will be heavier than the 11-28 and may negate any savings you're looking for. The good thing is that they're relatively cheap and you can easily switch them if you're not happy with it..
1. I run 23s. No real reason. They were available and on sale.
I'm running HED Ardennes+, which are a 25mm wide rim using a 23mm tire (Michelin Pro 4 Service Course.) I've found that 25mm is "comfier" but comfort is a very subjective thing (too many variables.) I did find the rolling resistance to be better, however, these were on these specific wheels. I can't speak for others.
2. I run 11-25. Tried 28 as well. I also run a standard crankset (53/39.) I have compact and mid-compact chain rings and for commuting, I prefer mid-compact. I don't like compact anymore.
Why did I go with this setup? I ran out of gears too often and it didn't let me push out the power I wanted to. I am by no means a fast rider but after going standard, I don't like going back. Like dton13 said, gear ratios are a very subjective thing. I would encourage you to experiment if time/finances permit.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with deep section wheels over 60mm deep, and how they performed for you in cross winds? I think my only concern is cross winds whiile descending cypress, seymour, and coming back from Whistler... but again, i've never felt uncomfortable bombing downhill at 65-70km+ ... The experience may change though if the wheels were deeper?
I have a great opportunity to pick up a set of enve's but they are 65mm deep and are the older V-shape rims @ 22mm wide (not the newer Ushape 25mm). They will be going on my S2
I'm just wondering for my weight (150lb), and aero S2 frame, plus 65mm deep wheels will i get thrown about on the road?
I can't recall the last time I rode my bike and the wind was so powerful that I got tossed around though? But, the deepest wheel I've ridden were C35's...
For my other set of of rims I ride Easton EC90 Aero rims, 55mm deep. In cross winds you can feel the wind pressing against the rims, especially if you ride Iona often, the stronger winds will have you counter balance the wind.
I wouldn't use my CF 55mm rims downhill as the braking surface is not alloy. The pad beds directly onto the CF, they don't bite as well as alloy and overheat easily.
I'm running the 2014 Reynolds Assult SLG which are a 41mm deep rim on the CAAD10. My experience is as follows:
1. I wanted these as a good all-rounder. I'm not looking to hit KOM or record breaking time trials.
2. On the flats, once I get up to speed (20km/h+) it's really easy to maintain the speed and to power through. The bike remains stable
3. Climbing isn't a serious issue but requires a bit more effort from the get go.
4. Getting to optimal speed, again, takes some effort but once your body is accustomed to the bike/wheels/gears, you're golden
5. I've ridden these in some strong winds and I do get blown around and I'm a pretty big guy. But once at speed, these are pretty stable. So for you guys running deep dish wheels, your mileage may vary and good luck haha
I'm 89kg/185cm and even I notice crosswinds with only 30mm quattros' so I can only imagine what how those 65mm evne will respond in a crosswind lol.
I picked up a new mounting system from this new company called Morsa Designs, its the only mounting system I've seen that can mount 2 gopro compatible devices with a 3rd garmin compatible computer.
The K-edge stuff does two, but I really needed three as I'll be moving to Osaka for atleast one year and they mandate a front light by law in Japan. From what I've tested the aluminium k-edge combo mount also doesn't deal with vibration well making it kinda poor for the camera, whereas this Morsa, which is made from a nylon/carbon composite material, does well for dampening vibrations.
Did a ride out to HSB and back. Windy day definitely. The wheels did great. Definitely takes more concentration but I got used to the wheels pretty quickly. Spins up fast and holds speed really well. Braking was excellent