HEY FUCK YOU ASSHOLE I'LL FUCKING SMOKE YOUR GAY DSM YOU FUCK

oh man i thought ud like that i called u sexy... your mom likes it when i call HER sexy lol


(yeah breakin out the your mom shit... *waits for jeff to mention his encounter with my mother*)

lemon you better watch out ......next time it won't be just her hand he kisses!!! ;)

hahahahaha ohhh snap!!! :P

lets get drunk again and look for Lemons mom!

hahaha ok back to headlights and rebuilds people .. lets get back on topic!! :p

FUNCKAING DSMN2 FAGO1

Lemon likes to tickle me in my no-no places.

mmm yellow

I prefer blue :p

*snicker*

http://www.overnightautoparts.com/ma...er-gasket.html

what type of oil does my car take?

hmmm dreaming of a rotary 510 RIGHT NOW!! as i may have a source on a shell :)

edit: im thinking a T2 in one would be fun :D

Castrol GTX 10W30 should be fine...


Wiring sucks....Bridged 12A or Bridged Carbed 13B

hahahaahahahaaa

fuck carbs and fuck NA!!!

YEAJH FUCNALK THAT SIHT'
1

Turbo = Rice! NA 4 ever

Just drove my old black NA with Aaron, its got FULL Racing Beat Exhaust on it now. Wow, it sounds so fucking wicked. It's sort of like George's car but slightly different. And since Aaron fixed a few vac leaks and exhaust leaks the car pulls so much different, especially with the new exhaust. fuck I want that car back now, its sweeeeeet.

In other news, my car is running great with the rebuilt alt on it now, drove tons in vic the last few days. Got a SWEEEEEEEEET night pic of my car at night too. Anyways, catch yall lata.

cheers
-Justin

Laugh all you want fucknut, I would LOVE to see you try to wire-up the T2 ecu and harness in a 510....

I was actually laughing at the idea of a bridge ported engine in his 510 (which he wants for AutoX). Bridge porting is evidently the answer for any application.

Fucking just peripheral port thats the anwser..

I guess I should send you that pic eh:p

For oil weight, you just have to find out what best suits your needs, if you drive like a granny, then 10W30 will do you fine, if you drive hard, I would suggest 5W50 Castrol Full Synthetic, it runs about $30.00 for 6 liters but its great stuff, I work at the Great Canadian Oil Change and have learned that A) all brands are basicly the same, except motormaster, which just sucks and B) the recommended oil weight for the car isnt necisairllary the best weight to use. For example 5W50 means the oil is 5 Weight in the Winter (the W stands for Winter) and the 50 is the weight in the summer, now i drive my car pretty hard so i need some thick shit, so i use 5W50 Castrol Full Synthetic, but Quaker State is just as good, Mobil 1 is good to, they are all basicly the same cause synthetic engineering processes are almost identical. From what i have been told at work, rotaries dont need any different oil than piston engines, i dont know how true that is but if you just apply the knowledge of knowing how you drive and apply it to your oil selection, it will all pan out fine.

Finally, i would EXTREAMLY suggest full synthetic, cause then all the molecules are engineered to be the same size, sludge doesnt get a chance to group and clog up shit, and it is just better stuff.

Now everything i have said here is biased as in this is what my co-workers at the oil change shop have told me, a pro mechanic might say something different, and he may be right, but i am just saying what i know.

crazy. I'm usually calm with my driving, except when it needs to be ran ;)

Jesus, you've never changed the oil on an RX-7 with full synthetic, have you? 65-289CI, DON'T use synthetic. They're generally terrible for rotaries. There's some debate on whether some select synthetics are okay, but I'd recommend just some 10W30 or 20W50 for you of NON-synthetic.

If you have the schematics it would be doable