ls/vtec or gsr b18c1
 

What is better.
Stock b18b block with stock jdm b16 head. Or stock b18c1.
Which one will have more power?

b18c1 for sure because of the lower compression ratio allowing you to turn up the boost.

but im not thinking of putting turbo. just wanna to keep it pretty much stock. Wanna know which motor will be faster

if you don't mind moving away from the b18 you can do a b20 swap. someone on this board has one i think it makes something like 240whp.

i saw that post. don't wanna spend that much. i wish i had the money to buy that.

B18C1.

Realiablity comes into play with the stock LS bottom end. Obviously the LS isn't ment to be revved out to 8000+ rpm. I would go with the GSR.

If you are staying N/A might as well go b18c5. Cant be too much more than a gsr motor.

In most cases its a significant amount of money.

N/A < F, go boost:D

Ok to answer your question without telling all the other ways you didn't ask about..... fuck people he asked a simple question he knows what other motor are out there and he knows about turboing.... That being said!!! LS/Vtec will be better than a C1. However if your going to do this I would HIGHLY suggest putting ARP rod bolts in the LS block due to the Higher RPM's you will be shifting at with the Vtec Head.

Berz out.

Do you know anything about motor prices at all? lol. The difference is almost double.

Berz out.

b18c5 is too much for me. Unless i find a really good deal than yes i would it.My problem right now is that my b18b1(pre5-5) cylinder head is crack. Bottom end is good. thinking of doing ls vtec. But putting all that money i can get a gsr(b18c1) motor. What should i Do.

hmmm, I can see how your torn... however, in your case I would just cut your losses with your B18b, and pick up a decent GSR motor.

To do the LS/Vtec swap properly, involves a lot more than people may think, as well as a lot more money... at least to do properly. I was thinking of going this route as well, but I had to be realistic with myself.

For reliability I would stick to the B18c1. It will be a nice jump from your B18b :thumbsup:

if you go LS / VTEC, you need to build it properly...

stock B18B bottom end is not meant for high reving
if you really want LS VTEC, replace it with ARP rod bolts and swap to P30 pistons which will fit on LS rods

building it properly will save you many $$ and headache further down the road...

You guys are making it sound like rocket science when its is a simple headswap with the golden eagle conversion Kit to do LS/Vtec. It's a lot easier than doing a full motor swap.


However if your just going to leave it as is and you can get a good line on a gsr then by all means go that route. You can probably find a cheaper B16 though.

Berz out.

Difference is almost double and you only get like 20hp more lol.

not doubting you here, but it can be done simple or it can be more tedious, depending on how particular you are.
some like to use the gsr girdle. if so, you'd also need the pick up and oil pan of the gsr as well. also b16/18c oil pump, waterpump. golden eagle or arp head studs/rod bolts. it can get pretty pricey in comparison.
to make it as reliable as a stock gsr motor, it would probably cost more then that motor, but would yield more power.

^^^ most typical back yard "diy'ers" know how to change rod bolts. The question has been answered. Obviously LS/Vtec is in the end is going to produce more power. It will be more work than just throwing in a GSR and calling it a day. Its your call, we don't know your mechanical abilities, or disabilities for that matter.

Im a mechanic...i dont wanna waste my b18b1 block. it's still good i think. just crack my cylinder head and wanting to do ls/vtec. but it seem like looking for parts to do lsvtec is hard to find. Is there any customization to the b18b1 block if i go lsvtec?

like what do you mean customization?
in all honesty, the block is probably the cheapest component of the ls/v. only worth the cost of a good core (probably 100$)

Oh something about the dowel on the block. needs to be bigger or something

I am going to get flamed for this since it's an old ls/vtec myth but there is no reason to run arp rod bolts. I didn't run them in mine and it was regularly revved to 8200+ sometimes to 9000. I have never seen anyone stretch or break a rod bolt from revving an ls/vtec to redline. You need to change the timing belt to run a b16 head so while you do that swap on the P72 oil and water pumps. Get the GE conversion kit and you're golden.

What is the GE conversion kit? hey brine04, you think its a good swap if i go lsvtec? i heard ls vtec is pretty krazy so i wanna try it.

ok i found a b18a1 block with jdm head. everything is done. how do i know if it has a vtec pick up and oil pump? and is there any difference in b18a1 and b18b1 block.

GE=golden eagle
it comes with stepped dowels, so no drilling involved. also comes w/oem headgasket, oil sandwich w/t-fitting and line.

I wouldn't call it crazy but it will cost less than a gsr swap and make similar power with more torque.
You don't need a vtec pickup but you should run the vtec oil pump and water pump (FYI all oem honda oil and water pumps built after 1997 are the same and are all p72) B18a1 and B18b1 block are the same except B18b1's have better sleeves if you plan on making a lot (over 450whp) of power.