Squeaky Brakes
 

Does anyone know how to get rid of that annoying squeaky braking sound WITHOUT changing the brakes? I took it to a mechanic and he said I have over 60% left, so I'm kind of confused. It irritates the shit out of me and I want it to stop !!

What kind of car?

Sometimes there's brittle brake dusk resting in between where the pads rest. (anchor). There could be some rust. Your shims on the pads could have fell off. Sometimes warped brake rotors would be an issue as well. Get some anti-cease and apply it to where the metal surfaces contact. Plus to be honest, you can't completely eliminate brake squeal. The problem is not uncommon. It sometimes depends on the brake compound as well. If you have metallic to semi-metallic pads. That could be one of problem.

It's a 2003 Toyota Corolla

if it really bugs you it shouldn't be more than $100 in parts to put new front pads and rotors on yourself.
simple hand tools for a corolla.

tell lordco you have a discount at level 7, at a random shop in burnaby(assuming you're not in burnaby) and you'll get cheap parts.


to be cheap though, you can buy a bottle of anti squeal for brake pads, pull ur calipers apart and pull the stock shims off (if possible) and cover the pad backing in the anti squeal, then just put it back together. that will be the only cheap option!

by brakes squeal when they are cold.

sand the brake pads and put anti-seized....

Fuck I hate when people say that. Brake rotors do not warp.

They get uneven deposits from the brake pads onto them, so they are no longer flat... but the rotors themselves will never, ever warp.

Just in case... Don't put anti-squeal onto the pad-rotor contact surface itself!!!!!

really..................:rolleyes:

i need an explanation here:confused::rolleyes:

I get this with my truck and my wifes maxima when pads still have 50% + left, so anoying.

Go drive hard today in 28C weather, race some punks in the street between the stop lights, come to my house, I have a bucket of icy water waiting for you. :thumbsup:

^lol yeah the icy water will wash off any uneven deposits

I guess they taught me wrong at BCIT and my experiences at work....:rolleyes: ;)

The squeek is caused by vibration of the pads in the calipers. Did you use the anti squeek glue when you installed the pads? Try that... or the GM solution on the new Camaro. They changed the mass of the brake caliper by attaching a wheel weight on the caliper thus changing the vibration frequency.

The best way is to use a copper based anti-seize compound (the silicone stuff is cheaper, but doesn't work as good) and you want to put the anti-seize compound on all the edges of the brake pad that touch the caliper, or where the pad slides up and down as you apply the brake, and also on the back where the piston pushes on the pad.

I do brakes very frequently and I've found I can actually run TRACK pads that would normally squeal like a pig being raped by an elephant, and the pads still won't make any noise a month later as long as there is still anti-seize on the pad.

In regards to warped rotors, 99.99% of people complaining about warped rotors have uneven pad deposits, which causes the vibration feeling when you brake. I've seen a lot of abused rotors - I've seen a lot of cracked rotors and some coned rotors, and I saw one cheap chinese drilled rotor with a wavy surface - but I've yet to see a rotor that was actually visibly warped like a twisted frisbee.

You're poorly read and need to take basic first year Chemistry.

ALL metals, and even objects such as wood, warp due to differential distributions of molecular composition. When objects are subjected to thermal energy, at the molecular level, the bonds vibrate and cause the atoms in that molecule to draw closer (contraction). When objects are warmer than their surroundings, they release heat to their colder surroundings, releasing energy and allowing the bonds to vibrate less and therefore allowing the atoms in the molecule to distend further apart from each other.

When you multiply this effect a trillion fold to comprise the entire piece of wood, or cast chunk of iron (read: rotor), you have movement over time as not every molecule is identical, in every location.

This is the reason that ceramics are such dependable thermal materials - at their molecular level, they are crystalline, which means they are ordered in a matrix fashion; therefore ALL areas expand/contract at the same rate unlike a rough cast iron chunk where there are different molecules which may well be mixed all over the place.

If anyone has a more depth on this feel free to add, I didn't read this shit since 2nd year Organic which was years ago.

plz do not give advice about brakes ever again......

It needs a brake service. (Deglazing brake pads too).

rotors may not visably warp, but put a 'warped' rotor on a brake lathe and you will see when the bits touch the rotor, that it is slightly 'warped'.
It's just a bad word for it really.

here is a good youtube vid of an allegedly warped rotor, although you can't tell for sure if the rotor was actually mounted perfectly to the hub.. so grain of salt:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSrJU...eature=related

Buy a new car, problem fixed.

While rotors can warp, you will not be able to tell by the pulsating feel in the brake pedal. The caliper moves in and out with the waves and will always keep an even contact with the rotor. As mentioned, the pulsating that people sometimes feel is actual cementite inclusions in the cast iron. Those deposits that are left the pads will cause the pedal to pulsate.

my hawk hps squeaks like a pig piss me off, when its cold it doesnt squeak. when it gets warm oh boy


no there is still lots of meat left around 75-80%

when they were brand new they didnt make any noise, after about 3 moths they start squeaking piss me off