took me about 2 hours, and that was with me adding the exhaust too, and drilling out the bolt on the cat that broke. if you need help when it gets here, let me know, i could always help out.

is it a 1.8, 2.0, or 2.5L? head gasket issues make me think 1.8, but it could be a 2.5.... its a PITA and you need to set aside at least 4 - 5 hours, and you need to take apart almost everything to get at the HG

It's the qr25 so 2.5. Shitty how you gotta take apart the whole thing
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Thanks broski <3 :fullofwin:

lolololol no more work. Looks like I gotta hold off on header till I find another electrical company.

So did you buy a header yet? There is one here... http://www.revscene.net/forums/fs-02-06-t634766.html

No. I just got my brakes replaced etc etc. Argghhh came to $830. At least I'm working again, so I can buy one soon.

Is that header any good? Do I need to buy anything else or just that one piece.

Well since you're working a header with downpipe and o2 sim would be cooler, code free.

Dude, I have spares of rotors, front calipers, brake booster, some used pads, what did you get for $830??

i did my brakes pads and rotors last year, all new and i had to buy the 2 specialty tools to reset the calipers, and i was just over 200$

Argh. here's what it said

rotors front = 178
brake pads front = 89
labour front = 125
rotors rear = 178
brake pads rear = 92
labour rear = 125
flush and bleed system = 45

832 total

Well, you probablly got a warranty with that at least.:) And it's good to stop. You must be rich!

lol, yeah came with warranty for 12 months or 20k kms, whichever comes first. Oh well. I still hear some weird clicking noise when I drive, which was the reason I brought it to the mechanics in the first place, thinking it was the vc joint or whatever. sigh.

quote..it is a real bitch..i think dealer chrages 8-10 hours...+ sending out the head to be pressure tested and machined...

its easy to misalign the chain and get the timing wrong

Last time I took my durango in was cause it needed a tranny... tranny shop put in a tranny $2000 and then the front diff came-out noisy. A few days after the new tranny I was stalling... took it to a mechanic... he hooked it up on the fancy computer testing station thingy... took it for a test drive and told me my alternator was shot. Paid 75$ for that labour. Took it to an alternator shop, the woman-man said the alternator was ok, my computer is the problem (no charge)... later that day I was at saveonfoods and the truck stalled. It wouldn't re-start. I lifted the hood. Looked around, found a loose battery terminal, went to my tool box tightened the wire and the truck started! The tranny shop forgot to re connect my battery... . The front diff continued to make noises. One night the front drive shaft gave out due to the diff prob and half broke off. I switched it to 4x4 mode... I drove home for 5 minutes slowly....clunk clun clunk... and unbolted the rest of the drive shaft... it's been two years, and I have rwd only... neat for burnouts in a durango LOL. Anyway I hate mechanics, glad I have my own garage now, and not so broke. :)

Yeah. I hate mechanics too. That stupid brake crap put a good hold on my modification plans for my car :(.

So my service engine soon light recently came on, and i got it checked out for the code, and it came as 0420 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold. Is this the dreaded pre-cat **** I've been hearing about? If it is, I'm going to be super choked because I was just in the process of buying a header. Is it too late to get rid of that cat and put the header on, or is my car a goner and I'm out a **** ton of money?

check the o2 sensor after the cat, if it is mimicking the o2 sensor on the front, then the cat is no good, but if it just does nothing, then your in luck and will just need an o2 sensor after the precat,
wasnt there a nissan recall involving this issue? the catalyst breaking up and getting sucked back in scoring the cylinder walls?

The recall did little about this issue. They added some heat shield to the manifold.

Start checking your oil level often. If the pre-cat got sucked in, I suspect in a few months you'll find yourself burning 1 litre per week (length of the dipstick markings).

If you are lucky, it might just be the sensor, but the odds are stacked against you.

Anyone with a QR25 should slap on a header ASAP. If you don't have a header handy, just cut the manifold off above the pre-cat with a jigsaw until you get one. Open headers save engines.

In theory all cars have a government required 7 year warranty on the emissions equipment. Maybe they timed the sensor to quit right after.

Light disappeared a day after I got my oil changed.
Coincidence? Regardless, the header I bought online should be arriving tomorrow *_*!!
I think I may need new spark plugs as well. Sometimes it cranks for a couple seconds before starting, and my mpg is absolute shit. at 300kms since I filled up and I'm almost at 1/4 tank left.