How to Clean Fuel System?
 

I think I have a clog somewhere, not sure if its injectors or at the fuelpump.
Car has no fuel filter.

03 Acura 3.2CL


Should i drop the gas tank and pull the fuel pump out?
Could it be possible for a clog to be in the fuel line?
are there any other locations I may have left out?

I've used STP and Lucas Oils.
STP don't work crap.

Lucas Oils helped but my issue came back. Seems to be a clog in the fuel system somewhere causing my problems.

check fuel filter.....

thanks for the help, but if you looked at my first post, my car does NOT have a fuel filter

really?..thats odd..


what symptoms does the vehicle have??? if worse comes to worse, you can pull your injectors and have them bench tested.

studdering, rough idle... misfiring on all cylinders, random miss fire.

check timing? distributer? Sparkplugs? Plug wires? even check the ground wires....

Idle Air Control Valve? If its plugged or dirty ect. it will cause fluctuation in idle and rough idle, or choke the motor out if its really plugged.


edit: im gonna guess its an electrical problem more so than a fuel problem...my guess anyways...

Timing checked, new timing belt water pump. Coils no distributor, new sparks (oem spec)
no plug wires, new grounds.

Idle air Control Valve is fine, checked.
EGR cleaned.
new O2 Sensor
Valves adjustment checked.


I put Lucas Oil Fuel treatment in one day and it drove normal for the first time in 6 months then after a few weeks it came back.

With a 03 car, why don't you scan the car for codes first (not any OBD2 scanner, but a Acura HDS and also do a data log while you are driving).

You should get your fuel pressure checked.

Random misfire doesn't sound like gas pump.. it might be injectors.

air filter? does it have a MAF?

Is it misfiring only during idle? how does it rev up?
try unplugging one coil at a time to see if its just one or two cylinders causing the problem. I know you said random misfire, but one misfiring cylinder can cause a random misfire code

if it has a MAF clean the MAF

i'm almost positive it uses a
Manifold
Air
Pressure sensor

i would have said MAF at first, but i wasnt sure if it had it..:)

but some MAF cleaner is good...car will run pretty shitty after until the ECU reconfigures.

is MAF cleaner = Carburetor cleaner ?

Yes.. however one should really make sure they are getting a skewed value from the MAF before cleaning..

That's why log and analyze data coming / going from your ECU before you do anything!

I had the MAF/MAP replaced about a year ago. OEM.

Coils were checked by mechanic.


when i step on the gas, it doesn't go like it doesn't respond then it will suddenly jolt.
As well sometimes when i left off the gas, it kinda chokes like the rpm dips real low for a second.

Have you checked your fuel pressure?

MAF etc gets screwed up easily if you have a CAI.

Get your car scanned with a HDC, there are probably error codes that doesn't show up in a normal scan.

for some reason I think the fuel filter is in the tank on the second gen tl's

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...13s3m0_b04.gif

number 9 looks to be a filter...

009 17315-S84-A02 FILTER, CANISTER

that could be the charcoal canister, i would just pay to get some diag done and than to start dumping money into it part by part to see what changes, random misfire could be all sorts of issues, maybe you got couple bad coils causing the misfire

thats a charcoal cannister filter, not fuel filter. Filter's air entering cannister. I think there is a strainer attached to the fuel pump, but its not a part thats replaced as regular maintenance.
And if these cl's are essentially an accord powertrain, then its a manifold air press sensor, not mass air flow sensor

I've had 3 mechanics and the dealer check it out. They couldn't figure it out.

since its a non-servicable fuel filter, should i buy a new fuel pump that comes with a new screen and just replace it?

you could replace the pump but how much is a pump and how much will that cost you? couple hundred dollars? what if its not the pump, like i said, pay some diag, $150 diag is better than paying $800+ and finding out it wasnt the issue, some shops have machines that will mimic a fuel pump so you can check if it is the pump, if they hook up the machine and the bad idle is gone, you can cross out a bad pump, if the bad idle is there, than its probably the pump

I have PAID mechanics to diagnose but they can't find the issue, suspected different things, and proved their theory wrong when my car did start running normal for a little while when i used lucas oil treatment.

I paid the dealer $1600 to diagnose it only to tell me "i don't know, you can start by putting back in stock spark plugs, even though your plugs are good, you could try that, and also do a valve adjustment and it might be your ecu, I don't know"

And I got the spark plugs put back oem spec spark plugs even though my old ones were still good. As well had the valves checked, they were within spec.

Dealership sucks, paid them all that money to say i don't know, or it might be the ecu, we won't know til we replace it and if its not, then you still have to pay for it and labor. And then we will start guessing other parts to replace.

Its not like I haven't tried, I'm just sick of wasting money for no results

A per a recommended fuel system cleaner, I've had good results with the 3M professional kit when I worked at a shop. There's also a DIY kit but never having used it, cannot speak for it's effectiveness.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glRHMLSXNKSHbl

used with:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glC0CMHX42K0bl

DIY kit and vid:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl57CFPS6RDXbl

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX5J5kZLTw4