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Suspension components, brakes, Wheels and Tires. All things related to how your car handles...

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Old 12-14-2009, 05:06 PM   #1
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Is rolling fender really required for poke fitment??

sorry if this is a noob question. But im looking to get a set of wheels with more lip. and if i get a set of wheels which is flush with fender or maybe even poke a bit out will i have rubbing issues? Cuz my cars lowered already and i still have about 2 inches of space between tires and fender. Thanks for any imput!
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:57 PM   #2
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2 inch of space between the tire and fender is quite alot space considering you have lowered your car. I think it will be fine if your suspension is stiff enough to reduce any body roll.

I have 11" wide rims on 315 tires poking out 1.5" out of the fender and it didn't rub on my fender.
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Old 12-14-2009, 07:21 PM   #3
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Suspension will camber in upon compression so you should be fine. If the wheel pokes, make sure you run narrower tires so the tire can camber into the well.
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:41 PM   #4
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Unless you vehicle has a trailing arm suspension like the rear end of a or Yaris, Echo. Those only go up and down, they won't camber.

I think leaf springs in trucks work the same way too?

Where are you think of rolling the fenders?
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:45 PM   #5
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Cut the fender.
Sounds like alot of work, but it's actually not. I regret rolling my fenders because if I cut it, I would get that 1-2mm bit of extra room to play with. That, and cutting it is just so much faster. And don't worry, that fenders don't count for structural rigidity, so that little bit of metal won't affect anything.

Cut. Sand. Paint.
Do your alignment and make sure it's PROPERLY DONE.
Camber it if you have to.
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Old 12-29-2009, 05:53 PM   #6
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well structure no, but panel yes, that little bit of lip does make the fender panel stronger. it helps though if ur fender panel is curvy to begin with. the more curves and bends in the sheet metal, the more rigid it is.

but rolling or cutting, either way, just make sure u seal the edge good to avoid any rusting.

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Cut the fender.
Sounds like alot of work, but it's actually not. I regret rolling my fenders because if I cut it, I would get that 1-2mm bit of extra room to play with. That, and cutting it is just so much faster. And don't worry, that fenders don't count for structural rigidity, so that little bit of metal won't affect anything.

Cut. Sand. Paint.
Do your alignment and make sure it's PROPERLY DONE.
Camber it if you have to.
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:01 AM   #7
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but isnt cutting fenders at least a G?
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
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but isnt cutting fenders at least a G?

yes cutting fenders makes a big difference..... and if you want FLUSH, you can get away without cutting or rolling, but if you want POKE you gotta cut or at least roll really thin......
So I'm about to encourage you to do the shit yourself and not pay a cent except for $30 dremel and $5 for silicone!

I bought a dremel and with a steady hand I cut my own fenders myself, keep in mind I've never even seen a cut fender before up close I just freestyled it, yea it was stupid and risky but I trusted myself and it came out great, posted it online on the fitment section of the forum got props which indicated I did it right. All you need is a steady hand really.... oh and the fenders on the G coupes are reinforced and tougher to cut than a lot of other cars, I imagine it would be easier on your car. Don't forget to use clear silicone to seal it up real nice like SG said, otherwise rust will start eating away...









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Old 12-31-2009, 10:36 AM   #9
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I would never recommend cutting fenders on a car you intend on keeping for an extended length of time or is show only car.
Not only does you fender become considerably weaker (for a few reasons), more prone to rusting but in the event of any contact with your tire (if fender gets pushed in cus its now weaker) it will destroy your tire creating a very dangerous situation. A properly rolled/pulled fender will give you just as much or more clearance then a cut fender like shown above.
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:36 AM   #10
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Cutting away the fender lip (the bend) will indeed weaken the sheet metal, seaming/hemming it is a smarter choice.

But all in all, it's just a fender. Weakening that body panel just means it will be more prone to dents and deformation, not really a dangerous situation. If the cut was finished properly and sealed, there shouldn't be much worry about rust and tire shredding.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:07 PM   #11
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it's common knowledge among the fitment community that cutting gives you more clearance than rolling. And as far as pulling is concerned, that's a whole other story, only the hardcore do the full blown fender pull, for most people it's either roll or cut.

look at the strip of reinforcement metal inside the cut off fender strip on the top right in the picture below, it's very tough and I tried rolling at first but failed, ended up slightly deforming the fender where it meets the rear bumper. I decided a nice clean cut would do the trick.




in any case OP, one thing that will make a huge difference in fitting it all inside the fender is going with a stretched tire, I went from credit card clearance between my tire and fender to around 2 if not more extra inches of room just by going with a slight stretch with my tire (went from 285 to 245) so that's something to consider as well if you don't want to roll or cut
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:45 AM   #12
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Hey Adon, how long did it take you to do your quarter panels?

I'll be doing mine in a 2 months. I will also be cutting since i previously fixed both quarters so rolling is out of the question.

I was thinking of using a dremel but am afraid it will take too long or won't cut through *not enough power (RPM)*
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:55 PM   #13
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hm.... im still deciding if i should cut the fender since it is my DD, and i also have bondo on 1 fender so i cant roll it. im mostly worried about rust and damage if i hit a big bump
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:32 PM   #14
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^ well if you got bondo and you cant roll it, might as well make a clean cut on both fenders and seal them up real nice with clear automotive silicone, once the silicone stuff dries it's almost inpenetrable, provides a really good seal.

maxxboost at first I tried doing it with my cordless dremel, but it was a big fail, I went and bought a $30 corded dremel from Home depot that worked really well and used the sandpaper looking discs that come in a pack of 25 pieces I believe, I went through about a pack and a half. The one thing you gotta do to make sure it's a clean line is draw a straight line with a felt pen and have your arm leaning on something at all times so you can follow that line, don't try to freehand your hand will shake.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adon View Post
it's common knowledge among the fitment community that cutting gives you more clearance than rolling. And as far as pulling is concerned, that's a whole other story, only the hardcore do the full blown fender pull, for most people it's either roll or cut.
i think the difference between cutting and rolling is minimal, if you use the proper tools to roll and not just drive with a pipe inbetween your tire and fender.

i think cutting the fenders is a stupid method to take. The bend that you are cutting off the fender serves two purposes:
1) connection for fender liner
2) added stiffness to the sheet metal panel

but sure, cut off the bend with a dremel. Hot-work the material and lose any residual stresses that prevent deformation. I'm sure somebody saw some shop do it on a show car, and now it's all about monkey-see monkey-do.
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Old 01-02-2010, 06:08 PM   #16
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there's pros and cons for a lot of mods, and off course everyone will have their opinion on them, doesn't mean one is right and the other is wrong, it depends on your needs. I happen to think it's stupid to try to beat your fender into submission, in most cases paint will crack even if heated and you're likely to deform it. But I don't think rolling is better than cutting, or cutting better than rolling, they both have their pros and cons and it's up to the owner to weigh them to suit their needs best.

I prefer a simple clean cut sealed up nicely with auto silicone so I don't mind at all trading a bit of fender strength for a little extra clearance, fender strength is not a big deal for me because I got a super stiff suspension setup and enough clearance thanks to camber/tire settings to know no matter how far my wheel goes into my fender, no part of it will ever come in contact with the fender.


bottom line is it all depends on your needs, most people are fine with rolling but some setups are so aggressive that rolled fenders alone will not do the trick and cutting is necessary, further on down that line pulling as well.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
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i think the difference between cutting and rolling is minimal, if you use the proper tools to roll and not just drive with a pipe inbetween your tire and fender.

i think cutting the fenders is a stupid method to take. The bend that you are cutting off the fender serves two purposes:
1) connection for fender liner
2) added stiffness to the sheet metal panel

but sure, cut off the bend with a dremel. Hot-work the material and lose any residual stresses that prevent deformation. I'm sure somebody saw some shop do it on a show car, and now it's all about monkey-see monkey-do.
It's not like your rear Quarter Panels are gonna buckle in with daily driving, without that bit of metal.

OP asked for POKE fitment. If you want poke, you cut.




I could post images for weeks, but you get the point.

And the fender liner is useless once you even try to be flush. All you really need is the bottom parts since the top parts will be rubbed into nothing within a few days.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:30 PM   #18
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i just cant imagine those cars being driven on van streets are they on air or somthing?
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
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^ well if you got bondo and you cant roll it, might as well make a clean cut on both fenders and seal them up real nice with clear automotive silicone, once the silicone stuff dries it's almost inpenetrable, provides a really good seal.

maxxboost at first I tried doing it with my cordless dremel, but it was a big fail, I went and bought a $30 corded dremel from Home depot that worked really well and used the sandpaper looking discs that come in a pack of 25 pieces I believe, I went through about a pack and a half. The one thing you gotta do to make sure it's a clean line is draw a straight line with a felt pen and have your arm leaning on something at all times so you can follow that line, don't try to freehand your hand will shake.
Thanks for the tips.
I'll try to post up my cut when i do it.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:51 AM   #20
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i just cant imagine those cars being driven on van streets are they on air or somthing?
Hard to tell if they ride on bags or on coils.
If you go coils, it better be super stiff.
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:54 PM   #21
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Holy shit on the g35, wouldn't the suspension compress enough for the rim to smack the fender?
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:52 PM   #22
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First car is on bags. Probably DD, but drives it higher.
2nd car is Justin Pawlak's drift FC. Coilovers, track only.
I think the FC is retired now. That car has been through hell and back, and like 4+ different looks. I believe he drifts an RX8 now.

You could definiately do poke and DD it. You just need the right height and camber.
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