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dont be cheap go DBA. $150-$170 a rotor |
or you can get Brembo rotors I'm not talking about big brake kits, but last time I checked, Brembo actually sells OEM replacement rotors |
Keep in mind if you do your rear brakes, you'll need either a pair of good needle nose pliers or a specialty tool in order to spin the pistons back. DO NOT USE A CLAMP TO PUSH THEM BACK IN. http://images28.fotki.com/v1032/phot...keTool2-vi.jpg or http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/su...500_AA280_.jpg I use Option B but the pliers will work just as well. The fronts don't need to be spun, so you can just clamp them back. However, those tiny as screws in the rotor do tend to have a habit of rusting in place, so as UnName said, use an impact driver. Ask me what happens when you don't. :okay: I didn't do any hard driving in my 7g Accord so I stuck with either whatever Lordco or Wakefield had on sale at the time, or if I had some time before having my brakes done, I'd order the Wagner units from Rockauto. |
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IMO, there's no real difference between most rotors on a daily driver. I'd go with blanks instead of cross-drilled, but that's about it. Brand-wise, I haven't noticed a need to go with "higher performance" rotors. If they seem to be wearing out faster than usual, chances are it's due to calipers sticking more than anything else. Pads on the other hand... That reminds me, when you have your brakes apart, check the sliders on the caliper mount to make sure none of them are grinding or binding up. |
Brembo blanks with Hawks hp pads. Good money spent |
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for rotors I usually just buy something that has a little heart next to it(Customer fav)-- can usually get a very good quality rotor for $20-$30 each. centric rotors are good because the center part is painted so it wont rust over time -- I have them on my jeep -- I'd rate em as a notch above OEM. I installed em a year ago and I feel like they've actually improved over time (or maybe it's just me?) -- they feel perfect now, 8 months after I installed em lol. |
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The calipers after you undo them, I usually just hang them off the coil springs with a coat hanger or a zip tie -- just wanna make sure you dont put too much force on the brake lines The brake pads will come with new metal hardware (little clips that hold the brake pads in place) so make sure you use the new ones. I think what lomac is talking about is the pistons on the caliper -- you want to push them in all the way after you get them off so that you can install your new pads. Usually all you do is take an old brake pad + a C clamp and push the piston in using the old brake pad to level out the force but I guess on the rear of the accord its a little diff (I havent replaced rear brake pads.....yet lol). should also get a good can of brake cleaner -- you'll need it to get all the brake dust off (not a must .. but I'm kinda OCD) |
For basic economy pads and rotors for DD economy cars, I recommend Lomandi off cragslist. The guy delivers to your door and is super friendly and helpful. The product isn't anything spectacular than basic economy brands, but I've used them twice (and currently) and have had no issues. |
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Posted via RS Mobile |
THis video shows options if it is really stuck: |
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theres a few different Wagner thermoquiet at rockauto.com but all pretty much look the same, which one is the best? or do they all perform the same with the different pricing? also, theres category for accord 3.0L SOHC or 3.0L DOHC. Two honda dealerships told me my vehicle is DOHC but when i click into that category, there are almost no performance parts except electrical stuff. |
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yes the size matters because your caliper bracket is ment for a specific size rotor, and your brake pads are ment to cover a certain amount of the rotor. i use powerslot and hawk hps..excellent stopping power |
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yes then it should be fine. if you want to confirm id find rockautos phone number and call them. |
cool thanks, just purchased brembo blanks and wagner thermos |
^ How are they holding up? I think it's about time I do mine.. |
Anyways else rocking brembo blanks? Thoughts on them? |
Blanks are pretty good but make sure you buy a good pad to pair up with it. If E46, try Akebono pads. They are pretty damn awesome. A bit more expensive than your typical aftermarket brands such as Pagid etc. but worth it. I think The Speed Syndicate had a sale on them a while ago. If your car has not had a brake fluid flush, make sure you do that as well to maximize your purchase! |
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Brembo blanks are decent, but as dukes said, you need a good set of pads to help maximize their capability. Last time I ran Brembo's, I had a set of Hawk HP Plus grabbing the rotor. Those pads dusted like nothing I've ever used before, but the combination of the two were fantastic. As also mentioned, do a good fluid flush. One of the easiest and cheapest things you can do to a car, with potentially a great return. |
I like the Akebono + Brembo blank combination mostly for the modulation capability most pads don't offer unless you start spending big bucks. It will really bite if you want it to, unlike Hawk HPs, which just bite initially but fade shortly after. Edit: I should add that I had some run of the mill Pagid or whatever blanks and they dust like crazy using I think what were also regular daily driver Pagid pads. Felt like it had the braking capability of a 1986 Toyota Tercel. |
Don't get Hawk HP+ for daily use. Too loud and dusty. http://i.imgur.com/n8t7PlW.jpg They're blue... I swear! |
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