Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech This forum is brought to you by The Speed Syndicate (TSS) in Burnaby.
Discussion of maintaining your engine, transmission, differentails, rear ends, and mods associated with "driveline" parts..
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12-30-2013, 03:16 PM
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#1 | | Media Officer / MOD
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| Spark Plugs
Hey guys
About time to change my plugs and just want to get some first hand experience on some plugs, car's a accord was just going to get some oem type ngk. However a friend of mine was saying he got a set of e3 and they work really well for him.
opinions?
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12-30-2013, 08:53 PM
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#2 | | RS.net, where our google ads make absolutely no sense!
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OE spec ngk is what you want. Don't waste your money on that hyped up E3 bojangles.
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12-30-2013, 09:14 PM
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#3 | | Rs has made me the woman i am today!
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I bought the NGK ones online shipped to blaine for ~$50, for all 6.
Local prices went as high as $25, per fucking plug.
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12-30-2013, 09:30 PM
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#4 | | The Brown Reason
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OE NGK is best IMO -- Even in my jeep I run the OE brand. I ran non-OEM plugs that were supposedly 'better' and it ran like shit.
I just did this on my accord -- the plugs were cheapest for me off rockauto.com. I ordered NGK so I wouldn't have to screw around with gapping/etc (NGK is pre-gapped to OE spec)
Word of advice, warm up the car first then pull the plugs. I did this and none of my plugs broke (I was a bit paranoid because they were originals @ 220K and 10 years old lol ... surprisingly they held up very well).
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12-30-2013, 10:15 PM
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#5 | | Proud to be called a RS Regular!
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Originally Posted by dhillon09  OE NGK is best IMO -- Even in my jeep I run the OE brand. I ran non-OEM plugs that were supposedly 'better' and it ran like shit.
I just did this on my accord -- the plugs were cheapest for me off rockauto.com. I ordered NGK so I wouldn't have to screw around with gapping/etc (NGK is pre-gapped to OE spec)
Word of advice, warm up the car first then pull the plugs. I did this and none of my plugs broke (I was a bit paranoid because they were originals @ 220K and 10 years old lol ... surprisingly they held up very well). | Ummm not sure who you heard that removing spark plugs from a warm engine was a good idea. Especially if you have a car with a aluminum head. Your plugs will come out fine but you have a higher chance of destroying the threads in the head. Aluminum head remove spark plug only when the engine is COLD. Iron head cars or trucks, warm or cold is fine. If the plugs have been in there a while soak with penetrating oil for a few hours then remove.
OE plugs on the dealer is always a safe bet if you're not sure. Posted via RS Mobile | |
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12-30-2013, 11:04 PM
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#6 | | The Brown Reason
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^ did not know that lol
my mechanic friend suggested it -- made sense in terms of broscience (heat expands head, comes out easier)
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12-30-2013, 11:56 PM
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#7 | | Head of HR....have a seat on that couch
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The opposite is true. Cooler = contracted = "looser"
Aznboi, I'd suggest plain Jane NGK's. As long as the gap is within spec, no need for anything fancy.
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12-31-2013, 08:24 AM
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#8 | | Media Officer / MOD
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thanks guys!
guess it's kinda similar to "z-max" type deals
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12-31-2013, 10:37 AM
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#9 | | S12 King
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i would still check the gap with a feeler gauge on all "pre-gapped" plugs just in case.
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01-01-2014, 10:54 PM
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#10 | | RS controls my life!
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I always eyeball the gap but don't think i ever had to adjust NGK plug gaps. Along with everyone else, i agree with sticking to oem nkg's.
I've removed plugs from hot engines and cold engines. Never seemed to make any difference. Except on V6's. Don't want to burn your arms reaching over a hot engine
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