Dealership charging insane amount for diagnostic
 

My CEL came on and for the dealership to get the code, it costs $140. I got an OBD reader and got the code in 30 seconds.

This is straight up robbery. Anyone know a reputable mechanic that don't charge an arm and a leg?

Well I mean, it is the dealership after all... what do you expect?

I'm sure you will be able to find a few local mechanics who will be able to charge you 1/2 hr rates to get a diagnostic, but it really depends on whether they have the time and space to give you that service.

What make and model is it?

If you take your car to a dealer they charge for an hour. If they are looking at your car and not working on another one, you are paying shop rate.

This is where the US is good for something. I think down there any of the big chain stores will scan you for free. I don't know if Lordco does it or not.

Berz out.

Not excusing dealerships, but a Snap-On code reader with all the libraries for Euro vehicles and whatnot costs well over $10,000............. you have to recoup those costs somehow, and scanning all your friends rides for free every time they have a problem isn't one of them.

It's not the time, it's the cost of the diagnostic equipment.

Well also you have to pull your car into a bay, take up a tech's time, and take up a bay. From the time you go in and talk and request your code scanned to the time you leave is gonna be at least 30 mins up to an hour even if they go grab a hand scanner and come do it.

Box stores will scan you because they want you to buy parts to fix the problem while you are there.

Berz out.

BMW charges a cool $180, i ended up buying a code reader online thats specific to BMW/Mini for less than that. From there I roll the dice myself in terms of how to proceed next

Just reading the code is a step in the diagnostic procedure. Proper diagnosis would be followed after pulling the code which is where the costs occurs. Knowing the code doesn't necessarily tell you what part(s) have to replace but it gives you a better idea on where to look.

2011 accord coupe V6.

My reader says the knock sensor. I suspect rodents chewed away the wires because long time ago, the dealership says there were chew marks and warned me already. The top of my engine have rodent droppings all over.

I miss the days when all it took was a paperclip.

They are not charity.
labor prices will raise as cost of living raises as well.

Dealerships diagnostic fees are always a head scratcher for me.

Called BJ BMW the other day to inquire about having servicing done to the roof of my E93. Was told that it would be however long it would take, plus a diagnostic fee of $182 or $192. Told the service lady that there was nothing to diagnose because nothing was broken, I just wanted a regular servicing (conditioning the seals, lubing the joints, etc.) done to the roof, no difference, as long as the car is going in for work, the diagnostic fee is applied on everything.

:fulloffuck:

Facking blowjob jessel sucks. I don't know how many times their service dept over charged my wife on super minor shit for her old 325i. Luckily her 1 series i only deal with autowest.

if bmw do work without you're approval that's a prick move.


like they'll charge you 80 dollars for a interior air filter change or $50 for wheel re-torquing saying they're needed it cause there was a slight wobble and its fixed now. :seriously:

I really don't see how "it's robbery" when they have no idea what the cause of the MIL is at the point you're calling in.

Rates usually reflect the amount of overhead a shop incurs. That's dealership and independent alike.
just as a couple examples; Dealerships need to obtain all manufacturer specific tools and equipment. Which is very costly. They also send their techs for training updates regularly to keep up to date with the product.
There's usually a lot more overhead involved with the dealer. However, the trade off is that you're getting service provided by someone who knows the vehicle well. Or at least should.

EXACTLY!

OP, Just because you have a code, it doesn't tell what the problem is. Good luck diagnosing a P0606, with a code reader.

go to pepboys/autozone/orilleys etc.

free of charge

For BMW/Mini/VAG, if you don't mind going south of the border, I find the guys at SK Motorsport in Bellingham extremely knowledgeable and down to earth. I went there for my Mini's service because it was the first big one with brakes, oil... etc. The quote I was able to get from stealerships vs. SK was 30% difference after factoring the exchange rate, not to mention the drive is shorter for me comparing to going Mini Yaletown's service.

And no BS on pricing or stuff you don't need. I actually did the service when I was there the second time. Because when I went in the first time, the mechanic took off the wheels and looked at everything and told me it should still be good for another 3-5000 miles if not more before even considering replacing them. And since everything was fine on the system, he asked me to come back in a few months and sent me away.

Heck, they even threw in a coupon of a local detailer (maybe an affiliate? not sure) for a free car wash. Eliminating the last difference I could think of by doing the service at dealership. :lawl:

Our dealer often has the customer vehicle given a mini detail. usually if they bought from us. Or are a new customer.
I don't think it's too uncommon

If you plan to use the dealer to fix something, are you able to scan it first yourself and then tell them to go fix it?

Or do they generally just scan it anyway and then charge you for it regardless, cause they can't take your word on it?

For our dealership specifically, we don't like to replace parts without diagnosis by our techs but if the customer declines diagnosis and wants the part replaced then we do it. We just give them a heads up that they're responsible for the bill if it doesn't fix their concern.

Pretty common problem with the honda V6's. Theres about a 6" wire from the knock sensor to the main harness thats likely chewed. Plugs at both ends so no real wiring repair. Bad news is its under the intake manifold between the heads. If you know what you are doing you can move remove the serp belt, move the PS pump up, and reach your hand in to unplug it. Gotta be extra careful unplugging it straight up though. The knock sensor connector is plastic and will break right off if you don't pull straight up, the plastic has gotten brittle from the heat.

My friend tried to pull the codes from my Celica with one of the super fancy Snap-On readers 68style mentioned, I laughed pretty hard when it couldn't do anything and I had to pull out my trusty paperclip and printout of possible codes.

Don't most dealers charge even if their diagnostics and work doesn't fix it? I've never heard of any place eat the costs of their own fuckups.

Bliiiiink blink blink, Bliiiiink Bliiiiink Blink,

lol Life was so simple back then.

Berz out.

Honestly I agree with you. It is straight up robbery for them to charge full diagnosis fee just to plug in their computer and read the codes.
I’ve always been disappointed with Brian Jessel diagnosis.
They said my rear differential was bad when It was a bad wheel bearing. They said I needed new tires (yes kind of but not really) for my tpms light when it was just a sensor that went bad.
Other things as well I just cant remember. Point of the story don’t go to the stealership for a diagnosis.

Dealers charge per hour and they tell you this.... if its takes them 12 minutes to drive in scan and submit the story, you still pay for the hour you agreed upon.. And most new vehicles require you to read the code then inspect to verify..

No different than a consultation with a Dr or lawyer you pay for the hour regardless if it take the full hour