It looks like they don't have a branch in the Okanagan but I appreciate the recommendation.

Casp is good, but yes, as you mentioned, they are only in GVRD. :(

last aug i picked up some flooring during a closingout sale for my basement rental, then tenant decided to renew their contract for another year. so these been sitting, taking up room, collecting dust. fast forward 1yr later, finally got around to redoing the floors. shout out to my contractor buddy that did all the actual work, i was just the gofer.

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/thu...1-jpg.1041183/

Anyone have any recommendations for TV installations? Looking to wall mount a TV and hide wiring etc etc

I finally put my dryer back together after the water pump died. I bought a bunch of door/windows seals from home depot so I could do a better job of sealing the ducting in the dryer, so there's less leakage. Also cleaned up the condenser coils. First full run of laundry and it's performing significantly better than before.

The Whirlpool build quality was significantly lacking.

depends on how fancy you want to get. at my apartment i hired someone to put an outlet on the wall behind the tv, just took a bit of fishing to get the wires up and a bit of electrical knowhow.

a slightly simpler solution is to use a kit like this. you still have to make a few holes in the wall and presumably behind your tv console you will route the power cable into a new wall port, then that port connects to another port behind your tv. it's not as elegant but if it's all hidden it doesnt matter.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xGp5qQ...ement-Kit.html

lastly the simplest thing is to just put a little cable raceway on the wall that isnt as much of an eyesore as the black power and hdmi cables.

Walked into HD to try to find some hoses, ended up getting a duct cleaning service. Not sure if it's a scam but $323 for duct cleaning on 14 vents, dryer vent cleaning (I try to make sure I remove any excess but there was a shit ton in there that was stuck), and furnace cleaning.

Probably a scam, but I'm treating it like fresh fluids when you buy a used car.

I was hoping (not with very high hopes) that the duct cleaning would solve my furnace overheating issues. But it didn't. I'm trying to tackle all the easy shit either myself or with someone else before calling an HVAC guy. I may... attempt to switch out the limit switch, but probably not cause it's hidden far away behind a bunch of shit. They really don't make these things easily serviceable.

Funny thing, I was switching out the flame sensor with just feel. My dad was like so it's like working on a car right? I'm like yep. Can't see shit, just gotta guess and feel.

Doesn't seem too expensive for all those vents. Pls update us on how it goes, I have been dragging my heels on getting the dryer vent cleaned coz i hear it can be a fire hazard if not cleaned regularly.

Oh I just had it done. Still think it's lowkey a scam, but I'm trying to convince myself it's the same as changing fluids on a used car - peace of mind that it's done.

The dryer vent cleaning ($50) is well worth doing as a lot was stuck inside of it, but it looks like you just need an air compressor and a really long hose. I'll probably DIY it next time, guy said that it should be done every two years or so.

I thought the duct cleaning was going to be a lot more intensive with a hose whipping the vents to loosen up build up, but it was stick a hose with 10lbs of pressurized air and call it a day. Anecdotally, the air intake to the furnace is a lot cooler to the touch compared to before, but my furnace continues to throw an overheat code LOL.

For reference:

https://i.imgur.com/T9KEKCV.png

I paid $100 cash on top of this for the dryer vent service + furnace cleaning (this part was a scam, he just blew compressed air in the furnace to loosen up the dust build up). And as per usual, multi point inspection is a gimmick.

Dryer vents you can also clear out with a leaf blower pretty easily.

I looked at doing it myself but the exterior vent cover at my place only opens like 1cm and I can't fit anything in there.

I didn't want to bother trying to spend a bunch of time removing the vent cover, so I think it would need to be vacuumed out from inside the house instead, which I can't DIY (or don't really want to)

So the EI builder that reno'd my place prior to me purchasing outfitted the entire house with these pot/can lights that was likely discounted old stock because we can't find them available for purchase anymore anywhere, they're two pin not 3 pin, and they've all burnt out miraculously quickly.

My question is, is there an easy way to figure out if it's two pin instead of 3 pin from the product information? I purchased what I thought were replacements, but they're three pin and I can't rip the junction box out, it's fixed into the ceiling surrounded by some kinda of plastic wrap and insulation.

https://i.imgur.com/PiYDYlX.jpeg

Oddly enough, this pic that I ripped from reddit is from a guy in the US with the exact same flooring and lighting (mine says 4/19 too) as me. Also it turns out the light itself is 4", but the entire unit is 5".

Haven't opened one in a while, but I think the junction box is actually like a ballast in your car xenon system...... Might be hard to reach now, but you might need to get through that wrap and insulation eventually in the future. I recall my connector being keyed, but I forgot how many prongs.

Are you certain they fixed the junction box? Were you actually able to grab it and made sure it's screwed in? Most builders just leave them sitting there because it's highly likely to fail. It won't be that deep, maybe 6" from where you unplugged it when you pulled it out.

I got the YUURTA brand from amazon, I just checked my leftovers, they are 2-pin like the one you have there. 3000K is closer to 4000k in my opinion with this brand FYI, the 4000k is VERY blue.

it's not bad... i did mine for around that price. Keep in mind I was there hte whole time and i watched how he worked. I had a super bright flashlight so it was exciting to see what happened.

I did ask the guy, how are you diff from the IG brown guys
a) the compressor are all the same (it's just blowing air
b) the suction vaccuum was 'higher' power.
c) the solution is bio good solution 'meh'


i do have to say, we had a 2 yr construction so i could see why it was needed when i followed him around.

I had a busted sprinkler so I swapped it out and ran the system briefly to aim the new one. As I'm walking around the lawn checking the coverage I feel a super squishy spot in the lawn. It even feels springy from the water pressure so I figure great, a broken line. Not a huge deal so I grab the shovel and start digging. Instead of a broken line, I find this.

https://i.imgur.com/jkhAgit.jpeg

An entire sprinkler buried about 2-3" below the top of the dirt. That one leaked like mad obviously so I swapped it for a spare I had, swiveled it up so it was actually above the ground, and now I've got a little better coverage in that part of the lawn. I'm pretty sure that thing was buried for at least 18 years lol.

Only ballers have sprinkler systems!

only ballers water the grass :fuckthatshit: