Try calling a door company and asking them. If you call Westcoast Moulding in Surrey, they stock door jamb material and have people in house that should be able to answer your questions. Ask for David Cushenan in the door department when you call.

Have you ever done anything like that before? Using a chisel to chisel out your hinge points is pretty tough and if you hasn’t done it before odds are you’re going to either go too deep or chip the frame away

If it’s just an average interior hollow core door personally I’d probably just buy a new pre hung. I’ve got a lot of experience with this type of thing and I’d be pretty hesitant to do it. If I was going to I’d definitely be looking into buying a jig or renting some sort machine which cuts those grooves out for the hinges as opposed to trying to cut it myself

I've changed out an exterior door to one with built in blinds and didn't touch the door frame. That required some work where the hinges go on the new door. I think I did pretty decent. Could have chiseled a little deeper as now it slightly scrapes on the latch edge.

I'd really like to avoid doing a pre hung because that means I need to rip apart the trim, caulking, repaint and I don't have a nail gun and shims to install a door frame.....Doing some hinge work and flipping the door slab just seems the most simple....as long as I know the door slab will still work before I start. I'd hate to do all the work only to find out that the door doesn't close properly.

Can you try to physically fit the door without any hinges on to see if it'll go into the frame properly before doing anything?

Which direction are you thinking of flipping it? If you’re changing left swing to right swing (or vice versa) you’re basically turning the door 180°. Most interior doors have a slight taper on the latch side. So after flipping the door, visually you’ll see a larger gap on the latch side when the door is closed, and you might find that the taper now rubs on the door frame, but that can be easily resolved by taking a 16th or so off with a belt sander or similar

Or you could flip it vertically and the taper wouldn’t be a concern, but now the door knob will be incorrect height. Unless it is smack in the halfway.

anybody here upgrade the flooring in their garage?
when i was house hunting i saw a few that impressed me, one was just rubber tiles, another was an epoxy coating with paint chips in it that looked pretty cool.
just curious if anyones gone through the process of either diy'ing it or hiring it out, or just laid down tiles. just to make the garage look a lot cleaner since most old garages are all oil stained or cracked.

Changing door swing was a success!!!:fuckyea:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9aace511_c.jpg

Why only two hinges? Even on 6'8" doors, they normally have 3.

Different standards 20 years ago? I dunno.

Anybody got a hookup on a relatively small quantity of river rock that will also deliver? Need about 0.5 cubic yards.

Started a few projects over the long weekend, dug up a border with the intention to put in river rock surrounding my patio:

https://i.imgur.com/G4sWXTg.jpg

And then my father in law started a project that we've been wanting to do in our master closet, to open it up to the bedroom and close off the door from the bathroom. That way my wife can get her clothes while I'm taking a shit:

https://i.imgur.com/48omQpK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uh3v40X.jpg

What's the plan for the light switch location?

Haha I just had that thought this morning.

Can easily be relocated to the outside bedroom wall since we have attic access.

Have any of you guys installed vinyl plank the opposite way you're supposed to? I started putting the last of the baseboards back on in my basement and noticed there's a gap near one end, between the 7th and 8th rows from the wall I started at. Redoing 7 rows that are already cut would be quick but I'm worried that after I get it out I might not be able to lay it back down going the wrong way.

Looks easy. My laminate is pretty rigid and installing backwards was a lot more tedious.

I ended up being pretty painless to put back, the only hassle was the final row against the wall, I think because originally it was so tight. I ended up cutting the end piece shorter and using tape to hold the seams as I went along and it was good to go.

Show us your stair patterned layout so we can judge your lack of randomness.

Oh my patterning is definitely shit, and I have mistakes like this because I didn't notice how the manufacturer reused parts of the design :okay:

https://i.imgur.com/DHPtNQq.jpg

Anybody have advice on choosing bathroom faucet fixtures?

I know for showers you definitely want to choose something solid since it'll be roughed into the wall, but for faucets, does going by brand or spending extra for nicer stuff make that much of a difference?

Like as long as it's UPC and NSF certified and not shady unbranded Alibaba crap.

There's a faucet we like from https://www.vigoindustries.com/ which seems like a pretty legit brand despite being made in China, but even a lot of other well known brands also import their stuff from China.

The designers helping us with the bathroom are recommending a local brand called Pearl, as well as another one called Riobel. Both also seem to be made in China.

Tbh price of the Vigo looks to be close to the other stuff we just like the style, so it's not like it's a pure money savings decision to cheap out on it. Just not sure if it's overpriced for what it is.

Cheap stuff = you throw away the entire thing when it breaks (home Depot)
More expensive stuff = you can usually rebuild it with a cheap part (emco / BA / wolsley )


Otherwise personal preference, I stick with the cheap stuff that still looks good. You never know if your buying a middle man product that simply has 200% markup over the next one over direct from china

I prefer to spend money on other parts of the house, or better yet, car parts....

In my own experience going through renos and picking my own fixtures. It's all expensive and larger brand name items have been pretty good.

This is my bathroom faucet, chose it based strictly on design. It's originally matte black, but the base has shiny black parts. It wasn't like that when I bought it, but after about 2 years of use, it looks like that. I also have an issue with the ball valve. I lift up the lever to turn on the water and swing it left and right for hot/cold, well when i lift it up, it falls downs a little. That happened over time. I have double sinks, so after it started to fall down, i used started to use the second sink. The second sink still stays up strong so perhaps it was just the 1 faucet? I think it's the house brand or something, but I bought it from GR Marine at Big Bend.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...03d105b0_c.jpg


This is my hand towel rack from Amazon. The matte black finish is peeling off.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...aaa6d702_c.jpg

My Delta kitchen faucet still has a uniform matte black finish, nothing like the issues you see above. Also Delta was really good with replacing a missing mixing valve for one of my shower fixtures. They sent it to me for free. Just a phone call to do it, didn't need to show any proof of purchase.

To take it one step further, my matte black handles for cabinets. They're richelieu and the finish is scratched off pretty easily. I haven't scratched off large chunks, but the lines so far look like stainless steel underneath the matte black finish

cause those doors are basically made of hollow cardboard and only weight a few pounds :lol

Even new built house have only 2 hinges for interior door unless you have upgraded doors

I have similar experience with my bath faucet.

I went with a more expensive brand (Hansgrohe) on my shower faucet which been working fine for 5+ years of daily use.

I got a cheap no name import for my bath faucet...initially I was amazed at how well it worked and looked at less than 1/3 the price of the name brand stuffs...but last year the chrome coating started flaking off from the corners...and i can see the bare iron/brass inside on the handle now...
The branded shower faucets still looks perfectly fine and the shower faucet had 10x more use than the bath faucets.

Also the linear drain I got from amazon for cheap keeps getting these rust dots, where else the other branded one I got never had them. (The rust dots can scrub off, but still looks ugly)

the cheap ikea facuets i got for vanity is great tho...so I guess prices aren't everything.

I got a the vigo facuets for my kitchen in 2016 (when they were $150, now they charge $500 for the same model...lol)

after around 6 years, the faucets started "leaking"... I contacted them, sent the video and receipts, and they sent me a new faucets for free... so I guess that's a good thing

also I have the stainless finish on the faucet, it never rust, fade or tarnish, BUT it looks like they put some kind of of clear coat on the stainless steel which started wearing off after 4-5 years. (Under the handle that was constantly expose to water)

Pic of the faucet & kitchen, I got it because it looks big and chunky like those commercial faucets, and only $150 at the time.
The sprayer doesn't actually work well at all.
https://i.ibb.co/b14K52s/Full-Size-Render.jpg

^I'm in the middle of planning out an island like that. I got a ton of questions.

Size of island?
Inches of overhang?
Is it all custom cabinets?
Are those cabinets in the back side? with push to open instead of handles?
Do you have a dishwasher? If so, where is it?
I don't see any gfci plugs on the island.