[Fafine]

Looking for a solid 52mm circular polarizer for a good price. Anyone have Hoya's 52mm circular polarizer? Any recommendations?

Cheers.

I have the Hoya one. Got it from a friend that works at futureshop. Was half off with staff discount.
Posted via RS Mobile

[yray]

I have a hoya 55 super quality cpl

I also have a tiffen 52 polarizer for sale :ifyouknow:
:troll:


just get it on ebay + step down rings

[k2_alpha]

I just finally upgraded from my kit lens. I was told to get a UV filter; not for the filtering properties, but more so for protection. Do you guys agree? I was thinking the Hoya Alpha UV MC filter or the Hoya Pro 1.

[Senna4ever]

I generally don't use filters, as they can cause increased flaring and ghosting especially at night. It's not a bad idea to use a filter for protection, but I rarely do. I have a B+W MRC UV filter for my 24-105mm f4L as it's my walk around lens, but I don't have any filters for my 24-70L or 70-200L which are the lenses I use when shooting paid gigs.

[missChloe]

Hi experts, any experience with the EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Portrait lens. I will mainly use it for street style fashion shoots.

I currently use the EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM kit lens. It's actually not too bad. Considering I shoot on a tripod so I can use longer exposure to compensate for the narrower f-stop. But it does limit me when I want to capture motion.

I also have the EF 50mm f/1.8 II that I can borrow from time to time too.

Are the 40mm and 50mm lens much different on a cropped body? Any input on image quality? Response time to autofocus and such?

Also, do I need the 40mm considering my kit lens and the 50mm?

I read their stats, but nothing compares to actual experience.

Thanks in advance for all your input.
Posted via RS Mobile

[m3thods]

So I'm in the process of offloading my beloved 70-200 2.8 IS II in a trade.

What I'm getting back in return are:

135L (so stoked!)
70-200 f/4L (non-IS)
$500 cash

This is going to be added to an existing 6D, 17-40L, and Sigma 50 1.4.

My question to you all is what to do with the $500. Yes I can keep it, but I was set on filling that gap between 50 and 135 with an 85 1.8. But recently it got me thinking that the difference (to me, at least) between 50->85 or 85->135 isn't that huge. I have a 580EXII, so I don't feel like upgrading to 2 flashes.

Putting it towards a 35L/Sigma 35 also crossed my mind, but I'd rather not add more cash on top for a lens I'm not sure I'd use much.

I don't use my tele very often (and never indoors, always outside in daylight), so I thought I didn't need IS. From what I read, the difference between the IQ of the two f/4 versions is marginal, so I'm thinking just save the cash for something else.


Any thoughts?

[Recon604]

whats a good lens for taking large group car pics.

my stock lens are the 18-55 and its hard to take large group car pics. difficult to fit all the cars into shoot and I have to be very far away to take the pic to make it fit.

[Boostslut]

Tokina 11-16 F2.8 is pretty awesome. Or Canon 10-22mm lens. $$$ but its wide! Assuming your using a crop sensor camera.

[Recon604]

Tokina 11-16 F2.8 is pretty awesome. Or Canon 10-22mm lens. $$$ but its wide! Assuming your using a crop sensor camera.

im pretty newbie, havent really had the time to get into photography. I have the t5i. I just take pics on auto mode LOL and then I edit them on my computer with lightroom

[m3thods]

There was a recent price drop on the 10-22 to about $799. I've seen 2-3 ads on CL selling for 600-650. I haven't seen a used 11-16 in a while. Don't really need the 2.8 if you're shooting cars. Big thing the Canon has going for it is the flare resistance. It's miles ahead the Tokina.

[Recon604]

$650 now at futureshop =O
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens : Wide Angle & Fisheye Lenses - Future Shop (http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/canon-canon-ef-s-10-22mm-f-3-5-4-5-usm-lens-ef-10-22-usm-lens/10072300.aspx)

[Recon604]

i just price matched the lenses at Broadway Cameras. I got a B+W UV filter too but I noticed they scammed me.

They sold me this one @ $149.99 but it actually costs $89.99 B+W UVa Haze 010 77mm Filter - Broadway Camera (http://www.bccamera.com/b-w-uva-haze-010-77mm-filter.html)

the one i found out that also costs $149 was the slim one B+W UV Haze 010 77mm Slim Filter - Broadway Camera (http://www.bccamera.com/b-w-uv-haze-010-77mm-slim-filter.html)

The price sticker on the filter even says $149.99

So I guess the flip the prices on the filter since I told them I was a newbie... fckin choked

[77civic1200]

So go back and get your money? just make sure you don't actually have a slim filter first

They may have been trying to sell you the slim because of the wide angle lens though

[GS8]

I was always under the impression that the slim is better on a wide angle due to potential corner darkness.

At least this is what I've read on photography boards. I have the slm CP filter on my Tokina 11-16mm and it's been phenomenal. I use the same filter with step ring on my 50mm without issue. So something to keep in mind is to spend more on a large diameter filter and use it with rings to cover your smaller lenses.

[Recon604]

slim filter requires you to buy a new lens cap. the canon one doesnt fit tight on the slim

i returned it got one on ebay 50% of what it costs at bcc

[sil-300]

I just picked up a Sony Nex 3n with 15-60 lens. Any suggestions that you guys can give to a noobie looking for a better lens? Mostly for travel pics. Something budget would be great.... i was thinking of grabbing a used Sigma 30mm f/2.8. Any thoughts?

[m3thods]

It really depends what you're shooting. By itself the zoom should suffice for travel. The 30 would be a great walk around lens for going around towns as it would be close to a "50mm lens"

Given you called yourself a newbie, I'll go ahead and explain it: The sensor in your NEX is a bit smaller than a "full frame" sensor. So 30mm isn't really 30mm. It's actually closer to 45mm (30mm x 1.5 "crop factor", so it would be a 30mm field of view that's being cropped). That's why sometimes you'll hear APS-C-sensors (like your NEX) as "crop sensors". Just keep that in mind when you buy lenses from here on out.

If you're shooting landscapes though, it wouldn't really be wide enough unless you shot panoramas.

So yeah, it's a great lens, but without knowing what you shoot we can't really make suggestions for you.

Edit: Keep in mind that there are adapters from NEX to whatever lens mounts you want, so lens selection is abundant and possibly cheap as lint. That said, the lenses would usually be manual focus. So if that's not your thing, just ignore that part.

[sil-300]

I would mostly be taking pictures of touristy things when i go to Mexico next week - like the ruins, beaches, people, etc.

Would the 19mm be better for landscapes/outdoors?

*total newbie* lol

It really depends what you're shooting. By itself the zoom should suffice for travel. The 30 would be a great walk around lens for going around towns as it would be close to a "50mm lens"

Given you called yourself a newbie, I'll go ahead and explain it: The sensor in your NEX is a bit smaller than a "full frame" sensor. So 30mm isn't really 30mm. It's actually closer to 45mm (30mm x 1.5 "crop factor", so it would be a 30mm field of view that's being cropped). That's why sometimes you'll hear APS-C-sensors (like your NEX) as "crop sensors". Just keep that in mind when you buy lenses from here on out.

If you're shooting landscapes though, it wouldn't really be wide enough unless you shot panoramas.

So yeah, it's a great lens, but without knowing what you shoot we can't really make suggestions for you.

Edit: Keep in mind that there are adapters from NEX to whatever lens mounts you want, so lens selection is abundant and possibly cheap as lint. That said, the lenses would usually be manual focus. So if that's not your thing, just ignore that part.

[m3thods]

If it's a mixture of things, I'd probably just stick with the zoom. I'm not too familiar with the NEX series so I can't comment on low-light/ISO performance and whether your particular model has a built-in flash. With that said, the variable aperture on your zoom lens will reduce your ability to take lower-light photographs (with/without flash if you have it) but it won't remove your ability to do so.

Play around with the kit lens here before you leave. If there's a focal length that you find that you're using, then use that to determine what your next lens should be.


To answer your question- yes wider is generally better when taking pictures of grand vistas or other types of landscapes. That said, it's not the best when taking pictures of people (close up, due to the distortion it produces). This is why I say stick with your zoom lens since it has the focal lengths you need for your vacation based on the info given.

[!MiKrofT]

So looking for a new walkaround lens. Tamron basically gave me the middle finger for warranty on my 17-50 F2.8 VC so I'm looking for a replacement. Probably sell the bad one cheap since it still works but just experiencing friction on the wider end during zooming and focusing. Suggestions? Canon 7D body.

[Traum]

So looking for a new walkaround lens. Tamron basically gave me the middle finger for warranty on my 17-50 F2.8 VC so I'm looking for a replacement. Probably sell the bad one cheap since it still works but just experiencing friction on the wider end during zooming and focusing. Suggestions? Canon 7D body.
Depends on how "walkaround" a lens you want, and how much you are looking to spend.

Considering that you have a 7D, I think the best match is really the Canon 15-85 f/3.5-5.6 IS. Yes, it has a smaller and variable aperture, and yes, the long end might still seem a little short. But AF is fast, and IQ is superb -- the glass and optics are L-quality even though the construction and materials aren't.

Another option that I like is actually the 18-55 IS non-STM kit lens. You won't find another zoom lens more portable than this (perfect for walkaround), and if you can stop the aperture down a bit, IQ can still be quite decent. Best of all, you can find this lens for dirt cheap.

[v_tec]

Thoughts on the Nikon 60mm 2.8G vs. 85mm 1.8G on a DX frame?

[!MiKrofT]

Depends on how "walkaround" a lens you want, and how much you are looking to spend.

Considering that you have a 7D, I think the best match is really the Canon 15-85 f/3.5-5.6 IS. Yes, it has a smaller and variable aperture, and yes, the long end might still seem a little short. But AF is fast, and IQ is superb -- the glass and optics are L-quality even though the construction and materials aren't.

Another option that I like is actually the 18-55 IS non-STM kit lens. You won't find another zoom lens more portable than this (perfect for walkaround), and if you can stop the aperture down a bit, IQ can still be quite decent. Best of all, you can find this lens for dirt cheap.
Hmm. 15-85 might work. I've been looking at Canon 17-55 f2.8 is USM or maybe even an 24-70 f2.8 L. There's also the sigma 18-35 f1.8 but the range is a little short and no IS.

[Traum]

Hmm. 15-85 might work. I've been looking at Canon 17-55 f2.8 is USM or maybe even an 24-70 f2.8 L. There's also the sigma 18-35 f1.8 but the range is a little short and no IS.
I am not a fan of the Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS. IQ-wise, it is impeccable -- no question about that. But the lens is too bulky, both in terms of size and weight, and 55mm on a crop body is a bit short. Also, watch out of dust problems in the early copies of the lens.

For me at least, 24mm is not wide enough on a crop body. Also, be mindful that the lens does not have IS. If neither issues are important to you, by all means, it's a very good lens.

[!MiKrofT]

I am not a fan of the Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS. IQ-wise, it is impeccable -- no question about that. But the lens is too bulky, both in terms of size and weight, and 55mm on a crop body is a bit short. Also, watch out of dust problems in the early copies of the lens.

For me at least, 24mm is not wide enough on a crop body. Also, be mindful that the lens does not have IS. If neither issues are important to you, by all means, it's a very good lens.
Yeah I heard about the dust. I'm buying it brand new so hopefully won't encounter that problem. I've decided on the 17-55. Not too worried about the size and weight. Its just a bit heavier than my tamron. I also have 11-16 and 70-200 so I've got an OK range.

[Boostslut]

17-55 is pretty sweet for a walk-around general lens. I'd go for that if you can afford it!

[meme405]

Looking for opinions on a 35mm Prime lens.

It will be used almost entirely for automotive purposes. Cinematography and photography.

Has to fit my Nikon D5100.

Willing to go used. not looking to spend more than about $200. Which I can get the Nikkor 1.8 for that price. So basically I am wondering if there is any reason I should move away from this lens..

[Razor Ramon HG]

For the price, you won't find anything else with the same value and quality as that Nikon. I shot the entire trip of mine in Korea with that with no complaints. Sharp and cheap. You can get nice shots even at 1/10 if your hands are steady.

[m3thods]

That's your only choice. Unless you can score an older Sigma 30 (yes I know, it's not a 35) for that price.

[!MiKrofT]

17-55 is pretty sweet for a walk-around general lens. I'd go for that if you can afford it!
Yup. I just went ahead and ordered it. Can't wait.

[meme405]

That's your only choice. Unless you can score an older Sigma 30 (yes I know, it's not a 35) for that price.

Since the D5100 is a DX, this might not be a bad decision, atleast after I factor the crop value, I will remain closer to a true 35mm.

The fact that the D5100 is DX is my only complaint about it, and when I upgrade it will be the reason why.

[m3thods]

I just remembered:

Isn't the Nikkor 35 1.8 DX for DX cameras only? I recall Nikon released a new 35mm 1.8 that is compatible with FX too.

So if you had plans on upgrading to FF, you wouldn't be able to take the DX 1.8 with you.

Unless you were looking at another lens. I shoot Canon so I'm not well versed with Nikkor selection.

[J____]

anyone have the sigma art 35? i'm seriously thinking of selling my beloved canon 35L for this after seeing the reviews.

also can't wait for the art 50 1.4

[Boostslut]

I have the Sigma 35mm F1.4A, and it's awesome! Perfect walk around! It's the only lens i'll be taking to San Fran as well. It's dope!

[J____]

I have the Sigma 35mm F1.4A, and it's awesome! Perfect walk around! It's the only lens i'll be taking to San Fran as well. It's dope!

any focus issues? that seemed to be the prominent issue that some owners were mentioning

[m3thods]

That's like any Sigma. You'd probably need to be more specific than just "focus issues".

If it's tiny front/back focusing you can always get the USB dock. Otherwise as with any Sigma you're playing the lottery to see if you get a lens that is good enough for you.

[v_tec]

Nikon Customer Service for Nikon Cameras and Accessories (http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Store/Shopping-Help/index.page#warranty)
NIKKOR and 1 NIKKOR Lenses
In addition to the one-year Nikon Digital Imaging Warranty, NIKKOR and 1 NIKKOR lenses purchased new from the Nikon Store also include a free Four Year Extended Service Coverage (for a total of 5 years of coverage).

IMPORTANT: To register for Four Year Extended Service Coverage, one copy of the included form must be mailed in as indicated. Keep the Customer copy of the form as well as the original proof of purchase (sales receipt).
Anyone tried registering an Nikon USA lens before?

Sucks that their warranty isn't interchangeable with Canada :okay:

[m3thods]

I don't shoot Nikon but here's what I found:

The Nikon USA warranty on film cameras, lenses, and speedlights will be honored by Nikon-authorized service centers outside the United States as long as you have the yellow copy of the Nikon USA warranty and your sales receipt from a dealer in the USA. The key to the validity of the warranty is a sales receipt from the country in which you purchased the equipment.

(https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9677)

Perhaps someone like Senna can provide more info as he's in the industry.

[Razor Ramon HG]

That's like any Sigma. You'd probably need to be more specific than just "focus issues".

If it's tiny front/back focusing you can always get the USB dock. Otherwise as with any Sigma you're playing the lottery to see if you get a lens that is good enough for you.

At least with Nikon, there's the AF Fine Tune in the advanced options to fix your lens issues. For a prime lens, you can just set it once properly with a tripod and forget it.

[v_tec]

I don't shoot Nikon but here's what I found:

Thanks m3thods. Can't find the page I was looking at earlier (but it was also from Nikon's Q&A) and it told me the opposite.

Answers from nikonrumors.com and dpreview.com seems to be a mixed bag too. I wonder if this is a good summary?
photoprice.ca: Warranties: US? Canada? Grey Market? (http://www.photoprice.ca/article/warranty-us-canada-grey-market)

Canadian Warranty US Warranty
Service in Canada? Yes Yes - 1st Year
Service in the US? Yes - 1st Year Yes
Domestic-Only Warranty Duration 5 Years 5 Years
International Warranty Duration 1 Year 1 Year

Basically if I buy a lens from USA, if anything goes wrong during the first year, I can get it warranty in Richmond. The next 4 years have to be sent back from+to US.

[m3thods]

Yeah after I posted I noticed that piece of info. I guess worst case you can call to ask.
Posted via RS Mobile

[v_tec]

Adorama and B&H...I know you can't possibly go wrong with either one.

But given the price is the same (and with Amazon), any preference over the 2?

[european]

Nikon 14-24mm AFS f/2.8 or Nikon 16-35mm f/4 VR?

Has anyone shot with both? What are your thoughts on the two?

[EgNyTeR]

Nikon 14-24mm AFS f/2.8 or Nikon 16-35mm f/4 VR?

Has anyone shot with both? What are your thoughts on the two?

I can't speak for the Nikon 16-35mm f4 but I do have the Nikon 14-24 AFS f2.8 . . . all I can say is it's a stunning lens! Loved it from day 1 . . . unfortunately I don't use it as much as I would like. Might actually end up selling it. ---the one thing that bothers me about that lens is that you can't fit a filter at the front. Other than that, the images and reviews speak for itself.

[m3thods]

14-24 is usually regarded as the best UWA zoom between Nikon and Canon. If you can justify the price and need the speed, I can't see where you can go wrong getting the 14-24.

[european]

Any advice on a filter system for the 14-24? I know there are a few available out there. Does anyone have any experience with one or more of the filter systems?

[m3thods]

This isn't really advice, but rather a rant: why can't the Canon 35 f/2 IS go on sale?? :'(

After its initial price drop (with its 2 IS-refresh cousins) it seems to be the only one that hasn't undergone a huge sale. This tax refund is burning a hole through my pocket :(

[roastpuff]

Just want to put a recommendation for the Sigma 18-35 f1.8 zoom lens. Absolutely amazing lens with great clarity, sharpness, color and fast focusing. The build is good, not great, but value for money-wise it's amazing.

I would absolutely put this lens up against any prime of comparable zoom and aperture. It's that good.

[m3thods]

If I was still on my crop that lens would be my walk around. For the longest time I was hoping for faster options for crop, then when I finally get out of crop sensors they release that bad boy. It's too bad they weren't a bit earlier because they would've had a customer in me.

[roastpuff]

If I was still on my crop that lens would be my walk around. For the longest time I was hoping for faster options for crop, then when I finally get out of crop sensors they release that bad boy. It's too bad they weren't a bit earlier because they would've had a customer in me.

It's definitely my new walk around lens. I'm liking it so much I may sell my 24-70L.

[LuHua]

Any thoughts on a decent walk around lens for FX without breaking the bank? I'm using a 28-105 f3.5-4.5 at the moment, it'd be nice to get something with built-in autofocus and maybe weather sealing.

[dasuperstar]

Hi Guys,

Any experience in buying from Aden Camera?

Aden Camera : Digital SLR Camera, Digital Cameras, Toronto Canada Digital Camera Store (http://www.adencamera.com/default.asp)

I'm buying my gf a Sigma 17-50 and they have a really good price. They beat US pricing!

EDIT: They are also authorize retailer.

[m3thods]

Hi Guys,

Any experience in buying from Aden Camera?

Aden Camera : Digital SLR Camera, Digital Cameras, Toronto Canada Digital Camera Store (http://www.adencamera.com/default.asp)

I'm buying my gf a Sigma 17-50 and they have a really good price. They beat US pricing!

EDIT: They are also authorize retailer.

You also save PST don't you since they're not in BC?

I almost bought from them but a local store ended up matching the price I was going to get it from Aden for. Other than that, I don't think you'll have any issues aside from having to wait for shipping.

[v_tec]

You also save PST don't you since they're not in BC?

I almost bought from them but a local store ended up matching the price I was going to get it from Aden for. Other than that, I don't think you'll have any issues aside from having to wait for shipping.

Were they able to also match the additional savings saved from the PST? I'm too, debating if I should purchase from an authorized Canadian retailer outside of BC.

But the hassle of in case I need to return anything...and have to pay for return shipping myself...I might as well eat up that extra 7% tax.

[MadMax]

Can't you just go price match at Broadway Camera?

[v_tec]

Can't you just go price match at Broadway Camera?

You can. But what I was wondering is...for example:

(A) Broadway Camera / Kerrisdale: $2500 + 12% tax = $2800
(B) Store in Ontario: $2000 + 5% tax. Free shipping = $2100

BCam / Kerrisdale would price match to the $2000 price for sure, providing it's a legit Canadian authorize reseller / have stock / etc. But at $2000 + 12% tax, you're looking at (C) $2240. Not huge...but still a difference from the above (B) $2100.

My question was wondering if anyone's been able to successfully price match to...something like $1875 + 12% tax = $2100 to be in line with pricing (B).

[m3thods]

Were they able to also match the additional savings saved from the PST? I'm too, debating if I should purchase from an authorized Canadian retailer outside of BC.

But the hassle of in case I need to return anything...and have to pay for return shipping myself...I might as well eat up that extra 7% tax.

IIRC no they didn't. I paid the extra 7%, but at the time I needed the lens, and the extra 7% wasn't enough to dissuade me from buying locally vs the event of needing to exchange it via shipping.

Sigma has gotten a lot better in the last few years, but they are more likely to have issues compared to OEM. The lens I bought needed a couple of copies to be tried before buying. Unless you're saving a very good chunk of change, I'd try and get the price matched here and pay the extra PST cost.

[MadMax]

You could argue the tax issue because you're still saving money by buying online. See if they'll modify to accommodate but even if they don't, which would be understandable, it's worth a shot. Regardless, I'd rather support my local shops. I've been buying from the Broadway camera on W. Broadway for ten years and even if they don't always have the best price I do tend to get some deals that can't be had online and I get treated very well with personalized service and "favors" that you can't get online. If there is a large price discrepancy then I'll go online but most of the time there is not so it's worth it to me.

[J____]

anyone know the release date of the sigma art 50? mannnn I can't wait anymore =(

[Boostslut]

"Late April"

[J____]

picked up the 50 art last week been testing in studio. Oh man this lens is incredibly sharp even at 1.4 it's amazing.

Downside is the autofocus is very inconsistent, especially on far objects and in low light. Shooting full body models at 4 meters away the lens focuses a foot infront 50% of the time...

dialed +6 in camera seem to help a bit but still sucks... even at f5.6

but when the focus is right, oh my god........

[m3thods]

picked up the 50 art last week been testing in studio. Oh man this lens is incredibly sharp even at 1.4 it's amazing.

Downside is the autofocus is very inconsistent, especially on far objects and in low light. Shooting full body models at 4 meters away the lens focuses a foot infront 50% of the time...

dialed +6 in camera seem to help a bit but still sucks... even at f5.6

but when the focus is right, oh my god........

That sounds a ton worse than my non-Art 50. I almost never miss focus on anything further than MFD, and my AF gripes are mostly seeking in low-light.

If it's that inconsistent, I'd look into sending it back/exchanging it. If it's that inconsistent, I would imagine that the USB dock won't even work. I could never be happy with a lens that performed that poorly (from what you're describing).

[grupyville]

I was looking to buy a reflector and wondering if anyone has any suggestions or could recommend a particular make/model for me?

Im doing a bit of research on my own and heard quite a few pros and cons for 5-in-1 units and units that are either just sliver/gold.

Id appreciate any replies/comments.

[twitchyzero]

What are everyone's thoughts on UV filters? Receiving my Touit lens soon and wanna protect my investment/make it easier to clean.

For impact protection will I still need one with a hood lens since the probability of impact is now greatly reduced?

It'd be primarily for reducing dust/dirt/fingerprints. I want to maximize image sharpness and contrast but I not looking to purchase premium filters.

For cleaning i won't be buying bulb blower, will rely on zeiss moisture wipes.

Also for UV filters, do you have one for each lens or do you swap them out each time and slap on a filter adapter?

Cheers.

[Traum]

There are basically 2 school of thoughts -- you are either in the UV filter camp, or you go without.

The no filter camp thinks any additional filters in front of the lens brings additional image quality degradation, and they'd be right. They also think that as long as the photographer isn't a dumba$$, the chance of damaging the front lens element is low enough (when used along with a lens hood) that the extra UV filter isn't really necessary.

The UV filter camp thinks that a good filter will only bring minimal / negligible IQ reductions, and the extra insurance you get from the lens protection far outweights the minimal IC reduction.

Personally, I subscribe to the UV filter camp. On my cheap lenses, I use a $20 Hoya multi-coated filter. On my more expensive lenses, I use a higher grade Hoya MC filter. Each lens gets its own UV filter, and I don't ever take it off unless I am cleaning or using another filter on the lens. I'd like to think that I still get nice looking pictures every now and then. ;)

See for yourself which camp makes more sense, and then just go for it.

[meme405]

There are basically 2 school of thoughts -- you are either in the UV filter camp, or you go without.

The no filter camp thinks any additional filters in front of the lens brings additional image quality degradation, and they'd be right. They also think that as long as the photographer isn't a dumba$$, the chance of damaging the front lens element is low enough (when used along with a lens hood) that the extra UV filter isn't really necessary.

The UV filter camp thinks that a good filter will only bring minimal / negligible IQ reductions, and the extra insurance you get from the lens protection far outweights the minimal IC reduction.

Personally, I subscribe to the UV filter camp. On my cheap lenses, I use a $20 Hoya multi-coated filter. On my more expensive lenses, I use a higher grade Hoya MC filter. Each lens gets its own UV filter, and I don't ever take it off unless I am cleaning or using another filter on the lens. I'd like to think that I still get nice looking pictures every now and then. ;)

See for yourself which camp makes more sense, and then just go for it.

Pretty much this.

I have watched many videos and it seems like they do nothing for actual picture quality.

I am usually pretty responsible with my gear, so I don't feel the need to have an extra protection layer.

However, I do often have other stuff on my camera that would serve the same purpose, when filming I often use a matte box, and when that isn't used I normally still have my ND filter.

When shooting stills I have a circular polarizer on occasionally.

[twitchyzero]

thanks for the tips

even though I take care of my things well, shit happens. i'm OCD so i'll go with a B+W UV MRC just to be on the safe side in exchange for the possibly minute IQ degradation

if I do wanna part ways with the lens down the road it'll also help resale value if the lens element is flawless

[meme405]

thanks for the tips

even though I take care of my things well, shit happens. i'm OCD so i'll go with a B+W UV MRC just to be on the safe side in exchange for the possibly minute IQ degradation

if I do wanna part ways with the lens down the road it'll also help resale value if the lens element is flawless

Very true.

One day I will smash my lens into something, it may be years from now.

And I will swear your name, and ask myself why I didn't do as you plan to...

Until that day, i'll continue to say, "Fuck it".:accepted:

[m3thods]

I took off my UV filters for "protection" about 2 years ago. Hoods provide more coverage without an extra piece of glass in the way. One thing you need to be wary of is ghosting, which usually happens in dark conditions and singular light sources.

If I know I'll need extra protection (at the beach from spray, sports, anything with flying debris) then I'll put it back on. Otherwise, they're off all the time.

[cdnav8r]

Trying to decide between the Nikon 300mm f4 AF and the AF-S. Has anyone owned/used both and is it worth investing the extra cost for the AF-S version?

[Boostslut]

Google gave me this:

The lens now uses the AF-S silent wave motor. This means eerily silent focusing, with a bit more snap than before (read on).
The lens focuses substantially closer (5 feet [1.45m] instead of 8 feet [2.5m]), and has gained two additional elements (still in six groups, though).
The filter mechanism has changed from 39mm drop-in to Nikon's standard 77mm front thread.
The dreaded "put a sock on it" lens hood is gone, replaced by a standard 77mm cap.
The tripod socket has been grown considerably in size (read on, though).
The "girth" of the lens has been enhanced, making the diameter larger (though with little effect on weight), and increasing the size of the width of the focus ring.

I have no on hand experience though.

[viet604778]

Where would you guys recommend for me to buy a canon 24-70 mark 1 lense at? Finding it hard to find since the mark 2 came out and that price is just too crazy.

[Boostslut]

Craigslist, or canon photo on the net buy and sell forum

[jcmaz]

Broadway Camera buy and sell forums

[viet604778]

Can't seem to find a lense. Anyone ever used the Tamron version? Reviews on it?

[Boostslut]

Tamron 24-70 the new one? Used it for a family shoot, thought it was quite good and sharp. Not too contrasty though if anything. I'd rock one.

[m3thods]

Tamron 24-70 the new one? Used it for a family shoot, thought it was quite good and sharp. Not too contrasty though if anything. I'd rock one.

This. IQ is basically in the Canon mk1 territory, minus some of that L colour rendition. But for the price and the fact that it's the only 24-70 2.8 with VC/IS, it's a great deal. I think the Tamron 2.8 VC zooms (24-70, 70-200) are excellent bang for your buck.

[roastpuff]

I have a 24-70L MkI that I am probably going to sell - don't use it anymore since I got my Sigma 18-35 Art. PM me if interested.

[deuel_1]

Considering the Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN Art as my next lens purchase, will be used mostly for indoor and lower light situations. Would this be a good purchase (will the f/2.8 Aperture be sufficient) or should I spend the extra money on one of the Olympus or Panasonic Primes?

[m3thods]

2.8 isn't really sufficient for low light. It helps, but you're still going to be sub 1/50 I think in a restaurant/other low-light type setting. If you have IBIS then that would help some more. But the trade-off for using a faster aperture is the shallow DOF. It's not as bad on m4/3ds, but a pain if you need to get a group shot all in focus.

That said, I'd probably go with the other primes from Pana or Oly.

[deuel_1]

2.8 isn't really sufficient for low light. It helps, but you're still going to be sub 1/50 I think in a restaurant/other low-light type setting. If you have IBIS then that would help some more. But the trade-off for using a faster aperture is the shallow DOF. It's not as bad on m4/3ds, but a pain if you need to get a group shot all in focus.

That said, I'd probably go with the other primes from Pana or Oly.

Thanks again, the GF2 doesn't have IBIS so I will probably go with the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7

I have read that if you use Aperture Priority or Manual Mode you can select the aperture switch to manual focus and turn the camera off and on to get group shots in focus, haven't had the opportunity to try this just yet.

[m3thods]

Thanks again, the GF2 doesn't have IBIS so I will probably go with the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7

I have read that if you use Aperture Priority or Manual Mode you can select the aperture switch to manual focus and turn the camera off and on to get group shots in focus, haven't had the opportunity to try this just yet.

I've never heard of that method. Is that unique to Panasonic?

[deuel_1]

I've never heard of that method. Is that unique to Panasonic?

I am not sure if it is unique to Panasonic, though its origin is a blog dedicated to the Panasonic GF1.

I first read about it here (http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/37797252)

And the origin is this page (http://www.lawrencephotographic.com/Articles/Downsizing/downsizing.htm#Panasonic_20mm_f1.7_Autofocus_Lens) about half way down

[m3thods]

I am not sure if it is unique to Panasonic, though its origin is a blog dedicated to the Panasonic GF1.

I first read about it here (http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/37797252)

And the origin is this page (http://www.lawrencephotographic.com/Articles/Downsizing/downsizing.htm#Panasonic_20mm_f1.7_Autofocus_Lens) about half way down

Ah it looks to be unique. Seems like such an odd way to set hyperfocal distance, but I guess a few switch changes is better than inputting f stop, distance to subjects, iso, etc into an exposure calculator for it.

That said, the guy was using f/8. In low light indoors, you won't be able to take group shots at f/8 at 2m. This will be even more difficult when trying to shoot at a big aperture like f/1.7-f/2, which is what you'll need for indoor low light situations.

Check this site out: Online Depth of Field Calculator (http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html)

Just as an example, let's say you're using a GF2, 17mm lens @ f/2, and your group is about 4 ft away from you (this may change depending on your situation indoors, but play around with the numbers).

At those numbers, your hyperfocal distance is ~32ft. That's not going to be available to you in an indoor situation, clearly.

That said, your limits of acceptable (this is subjective) sharpness is between 3.5-4.5 ft in front of you. That means that if your group were all standing in a line 4 ft in front of you, they would all be acceptably sharp. Knowing groups though, this is hardly the case and they usually stack infront of each other in rows. So that means they would all have to fit in a 1ft plane to be all in focus at f/2. This plane distance increases as you increase the f number, but you end up increasing your shutter speed (and possibly introducing shake) to compensate. This is why indoor low light photography is quite difficult without the use of some flash.

Hopefully that doesn't confuse you too much, but the more information the better imo. It seems that you may not understand that setting to hyperfocal distance isn't a remedy for everything, and surely doesn't apply to every situation.

[deuel_1]

Actually taught me a little bit more about aperture and depth of field thanks, I don't anticipate taking to many big group pictures in low light so I'm not really worried about that too much. I was at Craigdarroche castle in Victoria last month and there were some nice photo ops there that I wish I could have taken with out flash but the kit lens couldn't stop down enough and using flash kind of took away from what I hoped the pictures would look like.

[m3thods]

Ah gotcha I know how that feels. It's tough because you'll want to use a big aperture, but if you're taking pictures of details (like architecture) they'll likely end up soft because of the shallow depth of field. The trick is to keep shooting and be comfortable with the camera, and you'll be able to figure out in a second what settings you'll likely need to get the picture you want.

Good luck!

[vexor]

Question: I'm noticing a lot of classifieds for older lenses such as the Tamron 17-50 F2.8, Canon EF 17-55 F2.8, and Sigma 18-50 F2.8 for around $250-$500, my question is, are these still good quality lenses to buy (not damaged obviously) or should I continue to save up some more and buy new 18-55 F2.8 range lenses that are $1000-ish?

[m3thods]

the newer ones will have IS, the older ones do not.

Generally, 3rd party lenses from Sigma and Tamron will carry less resale value (and a higher depreciation rate) compared to OEM lenses.

With that, the Tamron 17-50 is a cult classic among crop shooters. The newer Sigma 17-50 (with IS) is the best lens in its class, for far less than the Canon/Nikon equivalents (17-55s).

You can't really go wrong. If you save up, you'll be getting a high quality OEM lens. If you choose Sigma and Tamron, you get a great lens at a great price. It all depends on where you want to put your cash.

If you can find one, I had a Sigma 18-50 2.8 "macro". I loved that lens to death and only got rid of it to fund a Canon 10-22. The close focusing distance (while not a true 1:1 macro) really gets you close-up photos without breaking the bank. It was my go-to when shooting crop while I had it.

[Matsuda]

If you can find one, I had a Sigma 18-50 2.8 "macro". I loved that lens to death and only got rid of it to fund a Canon 10-22. The close focusing distance (while not a true 1:1 macro) really gets you close-up photos without breaking the bank. It was my go-to when shooting crop while I had it.

I had the Nikon version of this lens and I really liked it

[Acethriller]

Was shooting at the auto show today when a fellow photographer recommended me the Nikon 35mm 1.8G

For car photography, I was wondering how the 50mm 1.8 compares?

Also whats the difference between Nikon 50mm 1.8 and 1.8D?

[m3thods]

Was shooting at the auto show today when a fellow photographer recommended me the Nikon 35mm 1.8G

For car photography, I was wondering how the 50mm 1.8 compares?

Also whats the difference between Nikon 50mm 1.8 and 1.8D?

AF-D has the aperture ring near the mount.

If you're shooting a crop body (which I assume you are), the 50 will act like an 85mm equivalent. In a car show environment you might be able to get away with the working distance, but a 35 might be more versatile overall imo.

[deuel_1]

Need some advice, I'm currently planning my next lens purchase(s) and I'm wondering if I should go with the Olympus 12-40mm pro or should I invest in a nice set of primes?

I currently have the 14-42 kit, 45-150 panasonic and 40-150 olympus and 20mm panasonic

[m3thods]

That's your standard prime/zoom argument- do you want better DOF control (primes), or do you want the convenience that a zoom entails?

I left out IQ because in most cases, pro zooms have identical IQ properties compared to the prime focal lengths they cover.

With high-ISO shooting improving with each camera iteration, 2.8 is plenty wide for most people if you're not shooting for absolute best IQ. But that said, you can still tell the difference between 1.4/1.8 and 2.8, AND you can lower the ISO by a factor of at least 2 in most prime cases leaving your files cleaner. It's up to you to figure out which you value more.

[excent]

I'm trying to find a new lens for my Nikon d7100 for mostly automotive shots. I use the sigma 17-50 f2.8 nearly every time I leave home and I'm just getting bored of it. I had a 50 1.8 but didnt like the focal length on a DX sensor so traded it too a buddy for a 35 1.8
I'd like to get a new prime as I like the sharpness, do I get an 85 and just get used to the focal range or what. I've seen nice shots with a 105 and 135 but I'm nervous of getting a prime with that distance for auto shots. Any help? :D

[-EuroRSN-]

If you're looking for sharpness then keep the 35mm because you need some what of a wide angle for automotive . You should just practice abit more because then you'll realize that you don't even need a new lens. :D

[yray]

105 for auto shots means you'll have to stand ~100 meters to get your car in the frame :lol

[excent]

I know I dont NEED a new lens, but when all you use is 1 lens it gets to be quite boring ;)

[v_tec]

If you only mostly shoot automotive shots, then your 17-55 should be more than enough.

But if you're bored of it / have the cash to spurge, have you consider the other end....and get a Tokina 11-16mm? Shouldn't be that hard to find a used copy for around $400 bucks.

[meme405]

On my DX camera my two most used lenses are my Sigma 8-16. And my sigma 30mm F1.4.

I also have the same Nikon 35mm F1.8, and it's a great lens.

[excent]

Ya thought about going the wider range too if I didnt find a prime I liked, may just end up picking one up

[Euro7r]

I miss the light weight of using a prime lens. Used to have a 50, 35 and 85 and end up selling them all for the 24-70. Heavy and arms get tired after awhile.

[excent]

the sigma 17-50 is a friggin brick after a long shoot, whenever i put on the 35 it feels like the camera weighs nothing haha

[77civic1200]

You guys are cute with your little wide angle lenses... Get a birding lens if you want to see what real weight is :grinno:

[excent]

I can only imagine :D

[IMASA]

Does anyone have the Nikkor 16-35mm F4? Comments/reviews?
I either use my Sigma 50mm 1.4 or Tamron 19-35 lens all the time, so I figure I would upgrade the Tamron.

Alternatively, I would consider just getting a Nikkor 20mm 1.8 prime and save the weight.

[Senna4ever]

Does anyone have the Nikkor 16-35mm F4? Comments/reviews?
I either use my Sigma 50mm 1.4 or Tamron 19-35 lens all the time, so I figure I would upgrade the Tamron.

Alternatively, I would consider just getting a Nikkor 20mm 1.8 prime and save the weight.

The Nikon 16-35mm f4 VR is sharpest corner to corner between 18mm & 28mm, and has way more distortion than the 14-24. It's not bad though.

[StylinRed]

Anyone got any suggestions as to where are some good places to look for used lenses? i've just been checking out ebay but would like some better places to check out :)

im looking for full frame lenses for my a7rii but they're all so pricey :lol

[lowside67]

Craigslist is by far your best option. US pricing is totally not an option with the exchange as poor as it is.

Mark

[m3thods]

Anyone got any suggestions as to where are some good places to look for used lenses? i've just been checking out ebay but would like some better places to check out :)

im looking for full frame lenses for my a7rii but they're all so pricey :lol

What kind of lenses are you looking for? Just random MF lenses?

[StylinRed]

Craigslist is by far your best option. US pricing is totally not an option with the exchange as poor as it is.

Mark

craigslist eh :/ alright thanks :D would have preferred staying away from them though :lol and with the exchange you're right lenses are going for low prices compared to US msrp on ebay but with the exchange they're the same or more expensive to buy new here :/

What kind of lenses are you looking for? Just random MF lenses?

Im trying to find the 55mm sonnar 1.8 for a good price as well as the 35mm 2.8 but am open to pretty much anything.

I'd love something the size of my 20mm pancake but that doesn't seem to exist yet :/

[Pho Dac Biet]

Hey guys, which is the better lens? sony's PZ 16-50 or the 18-55?

[twitchyzero]

marginal differences...18-55 is a little better but bigger in size
both are pretty average as they are kit lenses

[Tim Budong]

any fuji shooters here...
picked up x-t10 the other day with 18-55
always wanted one of their primes... suggestions?

[deuel_1]

any fuji shooters here...
picked up x-t10 the other day with 18-55
always wanted one of their primes... suggestions?

If you have not done so yet, take a look at page 100 of the New Camera thread, Methods and Ronin discuss Fuji a bit in there.

[syee]

Sort of lens related, but anyone have any recommendations on local shops that'll do lens repairs? I've done some searching and Vancam and Camtex come up. However, reviews on them have been mixed - some good, some others are terrible.

It's my brother's Nikon 17-55 that has a seized zoom ring. Nikon wanted $700+tax to fix it so looking to see if there's any 3rd party options.

I've also read on some forums (most US based) that Nikon apparently doesn't sell parts to 3rd party shops anymore so they can't do Nikon lens repairs - does anyone know if that's true and does that apply to Nikon Canada as well?

EDIT: Duh. I just noticed the camera fixed thread. Fail on my part. :okay:

[ForbiddenX]

Thinking of picking up a wide angle for a trip to europe next month.

I'm currently using a Fuji X-T1 + 23mm f/1.4.

Trying to decided between the 14mm f/2.8 or the 16mm f/1.4 WR

[m3thods]

Thinking of picking up a wide angle for a trip to europe next month.

I'm currently using a Fuji X-T1 + 23mm f/1.4.

Trying to decided between the 14mm f/2.8 or the 16mm f/1.4 WR

hahah was that you I replied to in RFD?

Anyways if not, I'll say the same thing here.

I know the 16 and 23 are completely different FOVs, but to me they're both "single lens" solutions. What I mean is that if I could only have one lens for a trip to handle most photos, I'd pick one of those two as they cover the ability to shoot in low-light, they're wide enough without making things look crazy distorted, and they can shoot 95% of most travel shots people end up taking.

That said, I have the 14 and the 23 and find that they really complement each other well. The 23 takes most photos, but for that extra width the 14 is crazy wide, and almost distortion-less. Add in the fact that the 14 is tiny and super cheap compared to the 16 and you have a great (ultra)wide travel lens. It's not Europe, but I'm glad I had my 14 for my Quebec trip.

To me, the benefits to the 16 ON TOP of the 23 you already have is the little extra width in shots. Both are 1.4, and both are similar in size/weight. If you must have WR, then your option is clear. If you were to choose the 16, I'd probably sell the 23, get a 35f2 and come out with extra cash.

[ForbiddenX]

hahah was that you I replied to in RFD?

Anyways if not, I'll say the same thing here.

I know the 16 and 23 are completely different FOVs, but to me they're both "single lens" solutions. What I mean is that if I could only have one lens for a trip to handle most photos, I'd pick one of those two as they cover the ability to shoot in low-light, they're wide enough without making things look crazy distorted, and they can shoot 95% of most travel shots people end up taking.

That said, I have the 14 and the 23 and find that they really complement each other well. The 23 takes most photos, but for that extra width the 14 is crazy wide, and almost distortion-less. Add in the fact that the 14 is tiny and super cheap compared to the 16 and you have a great (ultra)wide travel lens. It's not Europe, but I'm glad I had my 14 for my Quebec trip.

To me, the benefits to the 16 ON TOP of the 23 you already have is the little extra width in shots. Both are 1.4, and both are similar in size/weight. If you must have WR, then your option is clear. If you were to choose the 16, I'd probably sell the 23, get a 35f2 and come out with extra cash.

Yup that was me! I Just saw the reply actually.

I don't really want to sell my 23mm right now as I do like the focal length. I was debating before initially buying it stick with a 50mm equiv or go for the 35. I might go ahead and get the 14mm instead of the 16. I'm also not sure if I should just buy a zoom lens for this trip + my 23mm since I don't have anything in the zoom range either.

I did enjoy using just my 23mm in new york but I'm worried I might need the extra wide or extra zoom while in europe.

[m3thods]

Yup that was me! I Just saw the reply actually.

I don't really want to sell my 23mm right now as I do like the focal length. I was debating before initially buying it stick with a 50mm equiv or go for the 35. I might go ahead and get the 14mm instead of the 16. I'm also not sure if I should just buy a zoom lens for this trip + my 23mm since I don't have anything in the zoom range either.

I did enjoy using just my 23mm in new york but I'm worried I might need the extra wide or extra zoom while in europe.

I totally hear you. I actually just decided to sell my 23 as I didn't miss it during my trip to Quebec. The great thing about the 14 is that if you have the 18-55, they share the same hood and the same filter size. The 23 is ethereal but if I can sell it for the right price, I'll eventually pick up a 23f2 used or on sale and have my 35mm fov.

If you can swing it, you should try the 14 before buying. It's really wide. Just drop by a store and mount one and take a few shots. It was initially jarring how wide the lens was, but all things considered it's such a great little lens. Add to that the absolute lack of distortion, and it's a great wide lens for street and interior architecture in a pinch (read: perfect for Europe lol)

And if you're in store, you might as well do the same with a 16 and just walk away with one of them :p

[ForbiddenX]

I think that's what I'm going to do this weekend. Going to try them out and see which one I like better. I'll be heading to Montreal next week so maybe that'll be a good test run as well.

What camera bags do you all use? I'm currently just using a crappy one that I've been bringing with me but looking to buy a new one, left all of my bigger bags back home in Vancouver :(

[lowside67]

Thinking of picking up a wide angle for a trip to europe next month.

I'm currently using a Fuji X-T1 + 23mm f/1.4.

Trying to decided between the 14mm f/2.8 or the 16mm f/1.4 WR
I have the 14mm and it's definitely a nice lens but I can't say I am absolutely in love with it. It is a bit tight for landscape work and it's quite wide as a walk around lens... I know, the impossible standard.

I travelled in India with only the 14 and the 35, and if I was going to do it again, I think I'd go 10-24 (leave on the camera) / 35 (in the bag).

Mark

[m3thods]

I think that's what I'm going to do this weekend. Going to try them out and see which one I like better. I'll be heading to Montreal next week so maybe that'll be a good test run as well.

What camera bags do you all use? I'm currently just using a crappy one that I've been bringing with me but looking to buy a new one, left all of my bigger bags back home in Vancouver :(

When travelling I use my camera foam divider that I picked up in Taiwan and put it in either a backpack, or a discrete messenger bag. Given you're using a Fuji, these are great as they easily fit a body and extra lens, with whatever filters/batteries/accessories you might need (also with room in your actual bag for them).

It kind of looks like this:

Waterproof DSLR SLR Camera Insert Padded Partition Camera Lens Bag Handbag Case | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DSLR-SLR-Camera-Insert-Padded-Partition-Camera-Lens-Bag-Handbag-Case-/171752477625)

[Matsuda]

I use a Thinktank Mirrorless Mover 30i for my X-T1

[ForbiddenX]

I have the 14mm and it's definitely a nice lens but I can't say I am absolutely in love with it. It is a bit tight for landscape work and it's quite wide as a walk around lens... I know, the impossible standard.

I travelled in India with only the 14 and the 35, and if I was going to do it again, I think I'd go 10-24 (leave on the camera) / 35 (in the bag).

Mark
Yea the 10-24 seems like a really good option for the wide end. Althought I'm really not sure I want to get rid of my 23mm f/1.4 as I'm really enjoying that focal length. I usually favored the 50mm on all my DSLRs and never really tried a 35mm prime.

Did you try the 16mm as well?

When travelling I use my camera foam divider that I picked up in Taiwan and put it in either a backpack, or a discrete messenger bag. Given you're using a Fuji, these are great as they easily fit a body and extra lens, with whatever filters/batteries/accessories you might need (also with room in your actual bag for them).

It kind of looks like this:

Waterproof DSLR SLR Camera Insert Padded Partition Camera Lens Bag Handbag Case | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DSLR-SLR-Camera-Insert-Padded-Partition-Camera-Lens-Bag-Handbag-Case-/171752477625)

Thanks gonna look into this, did you have it mostly just sitting at the bottom of your backpack? I usually like having a backpack + camera bag so I can fill up my bag with the stuff I need for the day. But it is one less thing to have on me.

I use a Thinktank Mirrorless Mover 30i for my X-T1

Going to look into this as well, if I decide on a shoulder bag I think this is the one I'll go with.

[m3thods]

Thanks gonna look into this, did you have it mostly just sitting at the bottom of your backpack? I usually like having a backpack + camera bag so I can fill up my bag with the stuff I need for the day. But it is one less thing to have on me.


Depending on where I'm going, if I'm using a backpack I try to put something soft on the bottom be it a sweater or a hotel towel to wipe sweat off. That's because my backpack is pretty thin at the bottom.

For my messenger bag it's a pretty tight fit so the sleeve fits perfectly inside. No need to stuff extra stuff.

[ForbiddenX]

So I ended up trying both lenses at Aden and I'm still kind of torn. I really like the price point of the 14mm and how it's a little bit wider. But shooting with the 16mm wide open is pretty nice. gives me more low light options and also WR. In case of bad weather I can just use the 16mm and keep the 23mm in my bag.

They were also offering me in store pricing of $925 for the 16mm and $650 for the 14mm.

[604778]

Been shopping around for a portrait lens. Looking at the Nikon 85mm 1.8 read nothing but good reviews about it. What other lenses would you guys recommend? Been also reading on tamron and sigma primes.

[Euro7r]

I'm trying to get my hands on the Fuji 35mm F2, but I've called the camera stores locally and all sold out. None can give me ETA for new shipment.

Luckily I can still get my hands on a 14mm F2.8. Looks like I'll get this first and get 35mm later. Did not know these lens are that scarce...:pokerface:

[m3thods]

I'm trying to get my hands on the Fuji 35mm F2, but I've called the camera stores locally and all sold out. None can give me ETA for new shipment.

Luckily I can still get my hands on a 14mm F2.8. Looks like I'll get this first and get 35mm later. Did not know these lens are that scarce...:pokerface:

I think they didn't expect the 35 f2 to be so sought after. I believe stores are only now receiving new stock.

[Senna4ever]

I'm trying to get my hands on the Fuji 35mm F2, but I've called the camera stores locally and all sold out. None can give me ETA for new shipment.

Luckily I can still get my hands on a 14mm F2.8. Looks like I'll get this first and get 35mm later. Did not know these lens are that scarce...:pokerface:

We had 2 in stock yesterday, but they both sold. :(

[ForbiddenX]

Decided to get the 16mm f/1.4. One popped up over here used for $800 even included the metal hood!

Was really leaning towards the 14mm new especially because of the value but it was almost the same after tax.

[Euro7r]

Decided to get the 16mm f/1.4. One popped up over here used for $800 even included the metal hood!

Was really leaning towards the 14mm new especially because of the value but it was almost the same after tax.

I bought a 14mm last week LOL. Played around with it briefly over the weekend, love it. Going to play around with it more this weekend!

[m3thods]

Decided to get the 16mm f/1.4. One popped up over here used for $800 even included the metal hood!

Was really leaning towards the 14mm new especially because of the value but it was almost the same after tax.

I bought a 14mm last week LOL. Played around with it briefly over the weekend, love it. Going to play around with it more this weekend!

Enjoy the lenses! Both are phenomenal lenses for their uses. I always envy the 16 and it's close focusing and beautiful bokeh (even though it's a UWA!!!!!!)

[TOS'd]

Would a Fujifilm 27mm F2.8 be a decent travel lens for street and food photography? Or a Fujifilm 18-55mm F2.8-4 R?
Going on a short trip and was seeing what one lens would I benefit from the most as I will be backpacking and don't have room for multiple lenses.

[gramser57]

Would a Fujifilm 27mm F2.8 be a decent travel lens for street and food photography? Or a Fujifilm 18-55mm F2.8-4 R?
Going on a short trip and was seeing what one lens would I benefit from the most as I will be backpacking and don't have room for multiple lenses.
I've travelled with both, the 27mm + xt10 is a great combo, light weight, discreet and will fit in most coat pockets.

[TOS'd]

I've travelled with both, the 27mm + xt10 is a great combo, light weight, discreet and will fit in most coat pockets.

Did you find the 27mm covered most of your photography needs while traveling? I like the idea of it being so slim, but dont want it being too specific that it wont work indoors for food or art museums.

[gramser57]

Did you find the 27mm covered most of your photography needs while traveling? I like the idea of it being so slim, but dont want it being too specific that it wont work indoors for food or art museums.
It covered most of my photography needs but i'd prefer my 35mm 1.4 for an all around lens.

[!Aznboi128]

Does anyone have a Tamron 70-200 F2.8 G2?
Been wanted to get a 70-200 to get that extra reach for a while but haven't been able to find anything with a good balance of price / sharpness.

[-EuroRSN-]

^ I was in the same boat as you a couple of months back and I decided to get a second hand nikon 70-200 vr2 instead which was actually the same price as the G2.

The G2 is great on paper but my major concern was the focus. Third party lenses are just not as good with native auto focus systems and you may need to buy a tuning dock to fix possible front/back focus issues. I had some experience with focus charts and I just didn't want to go through that hassle again so I decided to go with Nikon in the end.

You will most likely not have issues but it's just something to be aware of incase you do. For the price, the G2 should be amazing and a great value as long as it works correctly on your body.

[!Aznboi128]

^ I was in the same boat as you a couple of months back and I decided to get a second hand nikon 70-200 vr2 instead which was actually the same price as the G2.

The G2 is great on paper but my major concern was the focus. Third party lenses are just not as good with native auto focus systems and you may need to buy a tuning dock to fix possible front/back focus issues. I had some experience with focus charts and I just didn't want to go through that hassle again so I decided to go with Nikon in the end.

You will most likely not have issues but it's just something to be aware of incase you do. For the price, the G2 should be amazing and a great value as long as it works correctly on your body.
Yea, I was worried about that with my D750 and D800 I really want to use a 70-200 rather than just the 50mm 1.4 I feel that so many times I need range.

I was reading some reviews the G2 seems to be pretty quick although the vr2 is fasters. I found a G2 for 1600 brand new while a cheap vr2 used is about 1900 :/

[-EuroRSN-]

The cheaper ones on ebay are gray market lenses and may be difficult to service in the future. If you buy locally for abit more then Tamron give you a 10 year warranty. Might be worth the investment.

[!Aznboi128]

The one I found was from Amazon. Got verified from Tamron that they will cover the warranty if it was sold thru Amazon. So I'm not too worried about that.

[-EuroRSN-]

Really? When I reached out to Tamron with the same question they said Amazon is not a authorized Canadian distributor so warranty will not be covered. Weird

[Matsuda]

Preordered a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 for my Sony a few days ago. Much excite, eta is end of the month

[nns]

I'm looking for a lens for my A6000 to take landscape photos. Ideally, it would have a very large aperture (f/2 or lower) and 24mm or lower. Any recommendations?

[blkgsr]

my wife and i have an old nikon D5100

have the stock dx 18-55, lens but i think after travelling for a long time on busses etc i remember it being damaged (zoom rotation or something like that)

we also have a 55-200mm lens

we'll be going to africa next summer for a safari and want recommendations for a new lens, what do you think would be best? just a replacement for the 18-55? anything else?

thanks