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Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Automotive Chat > REVscene Nation: Beyond The GVRD > Okanagan Automotive Chat > Okanagan Automotive Chat

Okanagan Automotive Chat Kelowna, Penticton, Vernon, Kamloops, BC Interior and beyond.
BC Interior Auto-Related Discussion..

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Old 06-04-2007, 10:55 AM   #3426
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New turbo should be here in about a week.
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cars dont just fall off the road into the air.
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Old 06-04-2007, 11:05 AM   #3427
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upgrading? or the same one again?
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Old 06-05-2007, 12:59 AM   #3428
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slo40
New turbo should be here in about a week.
What did you choose !!!!!!!!!!


Modded another dent in my wallet:
RX7 Store 3 in midpipe
HKS Twin Power ignition
and Blitz SBC I-Color boost controller....

oh and shipping blows. Still waiting for my 1600, and 850 cc injectors and rails
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Old 06-05-2007, 07:32 AM   #3429
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Same GT2871R .86 A/R. I was looking at the hybrid GT3076R-WG, but couldn't find anything good about it, much less any maps on it. Besides, I think it makes more than enough power as is.
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cars dont just fall off the road into the air.
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Old 06-05-2007, 08:39 PM   #3430
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The most significant mod I have done has been a manual boost controler $20 for an extra 40hp @10psi, cant beat that BANG for the Buck
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:48 PM   #3431
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Hmmm, oil return line on the turbo sprung a leak tonite and the stealership has deemed them discontinued. Gonna have fun rigging something up for this one.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:50 PM   #3432
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Quote:
Originally posted by KOOLRvK
The most significant mod I have done has been a manual boost controler $20 for an extra 40hp @10psi, cant beat that BANG for the Buck
so stock you where prolly running 6psi, so... 10hp per 1psi of boost? Seems a little high. I mean... I cranked mine from 6 to 11psi and I swear its no more than 5hp tops.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:58 PM   #3433
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but isn't his engine way bigger?
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Old 06-05-2007, 11:33 PM   #3434
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It depends on how your engine reacts to boost though. Some people make more power with less boost better flow than they do with more boost and no flow.

The Miata is faster on 8 psi than it is at 10.... I know it without a Dyno telling me that. My Isuzu was the same way. In the way it was setup, it was much quicker at 10 than it ws at 14 psi. Quality over quantity.
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:13 AM   #3435
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it really depends on four factors:

motor (obviously)
volumetric efficiency
tuning
compressor map of the turbocharger

when u start to move out of the compressor range of your particular turbo, you will find that raising the boost does nothing but push hot air into the motor subsequently causing detonation.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...68&postcount=1
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Old 06-06-2007, 08:37 AM   #3436
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Yeah, I've been noticing on warm/hot days the engine detonates, lacks power and just dosnt go anywhere vs's on a nice cold night. I dont have what I need right now for a fmic, so mabye building up a heat shield or moving the TMIC off to the side a little more may prove helpfull. Speaking of which, sounds like I just gave myself a project for the day. Now only if I could weld both intercoolers together to make one large one?
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Old 06-06-2007, 08:39 AM   #3437
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Mod of the day: Picked up some paint and looks like the hood is going to be painted something other than red... gloss or flat black I wonder...? Keep the scoop red or... take it black? input would be nice.
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Old 06-06-2007, 08:42 AM   #3438
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Dude... at the first sign of detonation turn the boost down!! If you value your engine at all, do not under any circumstance allow ANY detonoation. Detonation is not just a product of hot air from the turbo, but rather improper fuel and timing.

Edit:

Do not even attempt adjusting your boost level from stock without a wide band O2 sensor onboard. It is 100% necessary when changing boost.
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cars dont just fall off the road into the air.
92 240sx - 11.583 @ 120.72 mph - Ashcroft
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:00 AM   #3439
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slo40
Do not even attempt adjusting your boost level from stock without a wide band O2 sensor onboard. It is 100% necessary when changing boost.
couldnt agree more. too many kids get a turbo car, and the first thing they do is buy a shitty mbc and turn up the boost. not smart. unless you have a way of monitoring afr's and adjusting fuel trims and timing, its something you should just leave alone, unless you want an expensive paper weight.

right logan?
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:20 AM   #3440
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Already turned the boost and retarded the timing a little bit. No need for a wideband on a sprint, the price of one is worth more than the entire car I'll advance the cam timing and see what comes of it from there. Shitty MBC is right, made it out of Home Hardware Copper, and bike shop springs and ball bearings. Works like a charm and dosnt spike. Not "too" worried about blowing it up, but i'm being slightly precautious as i'd like to get another month or two out of it. Bottom end dosnt seem to be "too" happy with me right now.

Mod: Installed a new timing belt and painted the hood gloss black while keeping the red scoop. Damn airgun quit halfway thru and started to rain while I was prepping a second one; so I hope the orange-peel isnt very noticable when it dries
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:24 AM   #3441
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Quote:
Originally posted by Impulse_rs
No need for a wideband on a sprint, the price of one is worth more than the entire car
say good bye to your engine then
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:18 AM   #3442
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Quote:
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so stock you where prolly running 6psi, so... 10hp per 1psi of boost? Seems a little high. I mean... I cranked mine from 6 to 11psi and I swear its no more than 5hp tops.
depends on the stock mbc/if the car has one.
most factory mbcs' cant hold the boost level across the rpm range. for instance, the factory setting is 12psi, but in the higher rpm range the mbc cant hold it, it starts to drop to say 7psi by the time you hit redline... if you upgrade the mbc and set it to 12psi and it holds 12psi you can make large gains. found that some wrx owners have upgraded to a turbo xs mbc and had net gains of over 20whp for the simple mod.
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:28 AM   #3443
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Thats not the MBC dropping the pressure. Boost leaks and the turbo's capability at higher boost levels are what cause the drop in pressure. pretty much any turbo out there should be able to do 12 psi with no issues, so you are left with boost leaks that you need to test for.

#1 rule in running boost is that you need to constantly be testing for boost leaks to keep the efficiency up over time. Boost leaks will creep up in the strangest places all the time, and will cause all kinds of issues.
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:46 PM   #3444
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I modded my sweet ass truck with some new oil, transfer case oil, air filter, and fuel filter....allllll riggghhhttttt.
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Old 06-07-2007, 04:50 PM   #3445
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Someone modded some hit and run action to my car while I was at work

Gonna need a new drivers side fender and some new paint on the front bumper and door for sure.
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Old 06-07-2007, 09:48 PM   #3446
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new rear wheel bearing/hub assembly as they only come as a sealed unit, and my old one was howling and growling..
also did a whole bunch of other stuff, hopefully got rid of my tire rubbing situation too.
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:19 AM   #3447
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New oil and filter hit 4800km since I bought the car, 32 days ago. Than again, the clutch is slipping 3rd. Only has 1200km on it. Time for a centerforce.
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Old 06-08-2007, 03:59 PM   #3448
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haha thats because you didnt break it in properly!!! what a mechanic you are...
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Old 06-08-2007, 05:05 PM   #3449
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Dosnt bother me at all. Tranny was fucked right when I put it in, than realizing a centerforce was just slightly more. Warranty this clutch, and exchange +$ for the centerforce. Trans needs to come out anyways... Not sure how I didnt break it in proper. No clutch drops or anything. Only "gave er" once the clutch was engaged so...

Mod of the day: Engine Shampoo, Full wash, exterior vinyl and shampoo. Washed the undercairage like 3 times, acid bathed the wheels, full seat shampoo, vinyled the interior and doorjams where cleaned. Doing the powerpolish and speed glaze tomarrow. LOL...
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Old 06-08-2007, 05:46 PM   #3450
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