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Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Automotive Chat > REVscene Nation: Beyond The GVRD > Island Off-Topic

Island Off-Topic "Must you always talk about cars?" Not in here.
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:24 PM   #4551
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tobies got 2 new lights now to see if the thign has blown hg


so far it has some singhs of it but we will see the new temp guges is in and all
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:32 PM   #4552
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yup... i dont care if it is blown, i just want it fixed and drivable for the summer....
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:30 PM   #4553
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Hey guys, just thought i would share, im going to yank the motor out of my supra and do a complete reseal as well as put in my arp head studs and the upgraded toyota headgasket. I want to make sure i have no oil leaks and i definately need to do some engine bay detailing. Its pretty rough looking all in all. But thats ok because me and a buddy are going to get started on the engine pull tomorrow, then once its out hopefully all i gotta do is reseal it and run the new harness (when i find one) and i should be good to go. I was just going to do the head gasket but i figured why not just do it right the first time so im going to do it all. Tomorrow before i tear it down im going to do a compression test to see if i can determine whether or not my rings are ok still. If i can save myself the cost of a rebuild then all the better right. Anything you guys recommend doing while ive got this thing ripped apart? any weak links that should be replaced etc etc. The Timing belt was just done 20,000 km ago.
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:44 PM   #4554
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Cool, I was thinking about yanking my motor and doing a head rebuild as well.
I have an exhaust leak right at the damn manifold too... But I know that I need the valve stem seals replaced, and my landlord is a heavy-duty deisel mechanic, so he has all the hook-ups. He said he knows most of the machinists on the island and can get my head totally rebuilt, valve job, grind, and re-surfaced for 200 bucks. Does that sound like a good price?
I'm not sure, but I figure since I am not driving anyways, and he offered to lend his garage and help me yank it out and everything I should go for it, at least to do the valve seals and fix the exhast leak. Maybe put in a MHG.
So... I guess the point of that whole speech was to say yaeh... I might be doing the same thing, so bring on the suggestions! Might as well get as much done as I can afford if it comes out.
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:51 PM   #4555
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Right on! ya i thought about putting in a MHG but everybody told me that there is no point unless you are going to be running huge hp.
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:00 AM   #4556
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Oh ya, and i guess this belongs in the buy and sell section but i just want to know what kinda spare parts you guys have that i could maybe use? engine and also interior. I need a few interior bits and pieces...
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:32 AM   #4557
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hmm yeah, I just figured if you are going to have the head off, might as well do a MHG. This all depends on money though, if I can't afford to resurface the block, I'll probably end up having to put the stock HG back in. I don't plan on running any higher boost for a long time anyhow, if I start modding it now, I won't want to stop... just like with my stereo, and unfortunately school and tuition is (supposed to be) priority right now
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:30 AM   #4558
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ok answer time

timing belt should not be chaged they last about 120 ish k so you got lots of life on that bad boy in less oil got on it then replace it

as for the bottom end naa if you have low k then do bother i whould rebuild if i was close ot 200 k or past and still then if there was no noice coming formt he bottom end i still whould nto repace it

as for hte head 200 is kinda low ot be for valve regrind ect
if so i whould do that as well if the head needs work

you just might wana just do ti all you self as well be side the resiveing the vales you can do your self just go get some vavle lappy crap and start lappying the vavle to new seat works good for peoepl on tight bukey but nothgnbeats a 3 angle or 5 anlge vavle job


as for the block in most cause the block should be ok and ecetp a meatl head gasket depeing on how bad the block is if it did not blow bad mmost fo the time you cna just lap it and slap the sucker on if it is bead type gasket that is if it still has oit facprty fish on the block


now what whould i repalce humm water pump there cheep extra insureance and the oil pump as well and might shim it as well so the pump flow more to reduse the chance of a rod nock

other then that the 7m is built prove tell about over 500 plus to the ground


i whould leav the bottom end as is but te thing's i listed in less there noiseing ect

any wyas best of luck need any help just ask
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:35 AM   #4559
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toby i cna get you arp head bolts for 118 cnd intrested i can get them off joe there new so don't worry it whould take 3 to 4 biss nass days to get them icq for answer or put it on the thread


oh yae when you get home tunr the clutch fan and see if it loose then start the car and let it get to full temp and then try to turn the clutch fan it should be more stiff if it is not then you need a new one plus cheak the weeps holes ont eh waterpump for coolent to see if the seals are going as well whe she is all warmed up
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89 exo cage Toyota truck (so many gears to choose from)

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Old 02-16-2004, 01:20 PM   #4560
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Hey,
thanks for the answers Nashman. Yeah, 200 seemed like a really low price. But like I said, my landlord is a deisel mechanic, he said he has connections with a lot of the machining shops on the island, and gets good deals just about everywhere around Nanaimo. He offered to help me take the head off in his garage because I think my velve stem seals are bad. when I told him about the HG, he also said that the block probably wouldn't need to be surfaced, unless it was really bad. THe gasket is fine now, but I know it blew once before I got the car. Dunno what kind of shape the block is in. But he said we can take the head apart at home, put it in his truck, and he can get a full rebuild - including valve grinds in they need to be done for around 200 bucks for an inline 6. He said a lot of machinery use toyota (or something similar - the just looked under my hood and went "oooh, it's one of THOSE!") inline motors, so the prices should be about the same. Hopefully they are.
I don't really think I will need to rebuild anything on the bottom-end... my car doesn't even have 68,000 miles on it yet. It's just that the knock sensor code had been there since before I got my car, for who knows how long. IT's there now too... I need to do the rewire. I think the running rich caused my valve stem seals to take a shit on me. It's really hard to start up the car when it's been sitting.
ALso noticed an exhaust manifold leak, so I want to get that fixed too. ANd since I put synthetic oil in it, it's been leaking oil, so I want to try and pinpoint that and get it fixed if possible. I think I should run thicker oil too, you guys use Mobil-1 15-50? I have 10-30 in it right now, i think it's too thin.
But yeah, I'll check out the water pump, and the oil pump if we pull the engine. Most likely will just takethe head off though and get it done. Hopefully the landlord will still be willing to help!
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:49 PM   #4561
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too bad we're not all local, we could split the cost and rent a garage/barn somewhere hehe

ryan, that sounds pretty good, provided the HG has to be done. any time limit on that deal? im goin to phone around today for the gasket set.

and $200 for a head rebuild? thats a damn good deal if you can get it.... if i get the HG done, i might get the head rebuilt, or at least the valve stems, at the same time.... oh ya, ryan: can you do that yourself? i figured you can, but just wanted to ask... also: can you adjust the valves, get rid of the tick?

thinking about it, if your getting the head rebuilt, look into installing bucket shims from an echo, there was a thread on supramania/supraforums about it. less wear and tear, and maybe a bit of extra power from a lighter valvetrain....

ill post more later, the teacher is scowling at me lol
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:46 PM   #4562
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if you want get you head done it's best to get peoepl to build it for you has in re shim ect caus ie has ot be resuvice any way and they have warrty on it as well

if i was to do it it whould make the pirce junmp a bit higher so in the end get some els ot build the top end best bet and well woth it
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Old 02-16-2004, 05:50 PM   #4563
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Yeah, I actually would just rather pay someone to do th evalve stems. I know it can be done at home... but it seems so tedious, time consuming, and if you don't get it exactly right, you are screwed, and will have to do it all over again. If you get someone else to do it, and they fuck up, you just take it back :P
I'm gonna re-confirm that price for the valve job when my landlord gets back home next week, bastard when on a 2 week cruise...
I would totally be down for getting together and renting a garage sometime. There will probably always be something to fix on my car, it would be fun. Too bad I don't have too much hand-on experience with mechanics. But at least I would learn something.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:01 PM   #4564
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Ya thanks for the info nashman, my engine has got about 170,000km on it. Im going down to work on it more tonight, and i brought home my compression tester from work so i will see where i sit compression wise. If i still have lots of squeeze then i dont think i will bother re-ringing it. I will just continue with the reseal. But i think i will get the head rebuilt while its off, and put in my arp head studs and new hg. I can get stuff done at cost thru work so it wont be bad. Anyways thanks for the info. I will keep you posted.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:52 PM   #4565
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hey ryan how much do u think i could sell my supra for with the body fixed?
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:22 AM   #4566
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how much do you figure a set of JBL Power 6.5"s model P-632 are worth?

and a set of P-532 5.5"

they are the funky silver speakers JBL made awhile back.. got em but only put two 4" in the front
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:02 AM   #4567
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i don't know how much you choudl sell your car for it dpends on how it run and how good the body is done up
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:08 AM   #4568
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I just wanted to say...

DAMN those taillights are awesome!!!

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Old 02-17-2004, 02:03 AM   #4569
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its still a neon.
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:45 AM   #4570
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Hey Paradox,
I think they used to retail for like 200 bucks? That seems way expensive now though, you could probably find them for way cheaper, but I don't know what they go for these days. I know the GTO series can be had for really cheap now, but I don't think they are as good either? Sorry, I've never really used or heard JBL car audio, except for their new amps - which kick some ass for the price!
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:14 PM   #4571
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Timpo, you are now banned from posting in the Supra chat thread. dont come back.

murray - take your buying price, minus $50, then divide that number by 2.
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:36 PM   #4572
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I wouldn't pay more than 60-70 bucks for a set of 5.25 speakers like that. Actually, you know what?? I have some Alpine 5.25 speakers in my car right now... you can HAVE them if you want. I gotta warn you though, I wasn't really that impressed with them. I have a new set in the mail now though, so these will just sit in my room until I find a use for them. If you want them/need new speakers, you can have em man... but if you are looking for a good upgrade, I personally wouldn't bother.
PS - They are not the new model, they are the older dark blue ones with the silver tweeters. SPS model or something like that. Let me know.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:08 PM   #4573
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thanks for the offer, but what i meant was i already have these JBL speakers, and trust me they are high quality. really awesome sound...

my plan was to try and stuff them in the car somewhere, but looks like i might be selling them, so im just wondering how much they are worth.

considering they've never even come out of the box basically, they are in awesome shape, and from the 4" ones i have running in the supra, they sound amazing.


edit: specs look something like this..

JBL Power Series

6.5" 2way
model: P-632
Frequency Responces: 45hz - 22Khz
Reccomended Amp Power Range: 5W - 175W
(5W - 225W with P-Kit Passive Crossover)

Impedance: 4 Ohms
Sensitivity: 91 dB
Mounting Depth: 2.5" (64mm)

as for the P-532's, the specs are about the same.... but with slightly lower amp ranges

Last edited by Paradox; 02-17-2004 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:18 PM   #4574
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Oh, ok my bad. Glad you like them, I haven't ever heard JBL's, only the GTO series. They weren't too bad either though.
But anyways, my misunderstanding... good luck with the sale.
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:05 PM   #4575
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Well i did the compression test. I couldnt get an accurate reading though because the kid that owned the car before me spent alot of time cranking it over and not unplugging the injectors so the cylinders were full of fuel and i had readings all over the charts. Ive left the plugs out lastnight so it should be good today, but i probably wont be back down there tonight anyways. I will do another compression test tomorrow when i go down. I should have a more accurate reading this time with all the fuel evaporated now. I decided that i will probably end up doing a complete rebuild anyways, just for peace of mind. I will get new mains and big end con rod bearings and at least a set of rings, but probably pistons as well. I will see how they look when i get them out. Im thinking of getting the car repainted once im all done the engine depending on cash flow lol, but we will see when the time comes. I would really like to get it painted black, even though it is a pretty neat charcoal kinda color now but the paint has quite a few little nicks and scratches throughout it.
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