REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum


Welcome to the REVscene Automotive Forum forums.

Registration is Free!You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.


Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Automotive Chat > Vancouver Auto Chat

Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 08-12-2010, 07:45 PM   #151
RS.net, helping ugly ppl have sex since 2001
 
shenmecar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 8,857
Thanked 2,420 Times in 669 Posts
Related question, when do you check your oil level? When the engine is HOT or COLD? (*prepares for faggot to post a Katy Perry video*)
Advertisement
__________________
2014 Honda Civic Si
shenmecar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 07:52 PM   #152
My dinner reheated before my turbo spooled
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,702
Thanked 231 Times in 78 Posts
Check it when it's hot, I usually check it when I get home after a drive or at a gas station so this way you get a true level.
Spaceship_coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 08:10 PM   #153
RS controls my life!
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: coq
Posts: 775
Thanked 56 Times in 23 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prelude_2_NV View Post
Check it when it's hot, I usually check it when I get home after a drive or at a gas station so this way you get a true level.
No. You're suppose to check it when its cold. Best time to check your oil level is in the morning when the oil has all drained into the pan from the rest of the engine. Just pull the dipstick out and check, no need to wipe or anything since the oil has settled. Clean and easy.
jack_dangerous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 08:23 PM   #154
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Check it when it's cold and when your car is level. When your car is running and warm, the oil pump has been running and residual oil will be in the engine internals rather than in the sump.

The dipstick is a measure of the oil in the sump. It's also easier to see when the engine is cold.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 08:25 PM   #155
My dinner reheated before my turbo spooled
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,702
Thanked 231 Times in 78 Posts
Damn...I never knew that. Guess I've been doing it wrong all these years. Thanks for the correction.

*EDIT*

I just looked it up in my manual.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audi Owner's Manual
Checking the engine oil level
The best time to check the engine oil level is when the oil is warm.

To get a true reading, the vehicle must be on level ground.
- After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.
- Pull out dipstick (arrow) and wipe it clean with a rag.
- Reinsert dipstick; push it all the way in.
- Pull dipstick out again and read the level:
a - You must not add oil.
b - You can add oil. The oil level may go into the a range, but not above the a range
c - You must add oil. After fillin in oil, make sure that the oil level is somewhere within the b range.
- After checking the oil level, please make sure that the dipstick is pushed back in all the way.
A refers to the high mark, b the middle range and c is the low mark.

I guess it must differ from manufacturers as I have been following this method since I've owned this car.

Last edited by Spaceship_coupe; 08-12-2010 at 08:47 PM. Reason: Looked it up in the owner's manual
Spaceship_coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:01 PM   #156
Hacked RS to become a mod
 
SkinnyPupp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sunny Hong Kong
Posts: 44,161
Thanked 19,010 Times in 5,898 Posts
Yeah from what I recall, the oil needs to be warm, and the car needs to be running, but you shouldn't check immediately after it's running. A few minutes is best.
SkinnyPupp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #157
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prelude_2_NV View Post
Damn...I never knew that. Guess I've been doing it wrong all these years. Thanks for the correction.

*EDIT*

I just looked it up in my manual.



A refers to the high mark, b the middle range and c is the low mark.

I guess it must differ from manufacturers as I have been following this method since I've owned this car.
Interesting! Check the oil when cold AND warm and see how much of a difference it makes. Perhaps your Audi's sump is large. How many liters of oil does it take per change?
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #158
RS.net, helping ugly ppl have sex since 2001
 
Great68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 8,835
Thanked 2,883 Times in 988 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidTurbo View Post
Check it when it's cold and when your car is level. When your car is running and warm, the oil pump has been running and residual oil will be in the engine internals rather than in the sump.

The dipstick is a measure of the oil in the sump. It's also easier to see when the engine is cold.
Unless you have a drainage problem in your block, the amount of oil left in the engine after 5 minutes of an engine being shut off is pretty miniscule.

My MS3's manual outlines the following procedure to check the oil (verbatim):

1. Be sure the vehicle is on a level surface.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
3. Turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.
4. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, and reinsurt fully.
5. Pull it out again and examine the level.

My Ranger's manual also says to warm the engine, then let sit for 5 minutes for oil to drain to pan.

See a trend?
__________________
1968 Mustang Coupe
2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
1997 GMC Sonoma ZR2
2014 F150 5.0L XTR 4x4

A vehicle for all occasions
Great68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:09 PM   #159
My dinner reheated before my turbo spooled
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,702
Thanked 231 Times in 78 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidTurbo View Post
Interesting! Check the oil when cold AND warm and see how much of a difference it makes. Perhaps your Audi's sump is large. How many liters of oil does it take per change?
I shall do that next time and post an update. It takes about 7 litres.
Spaceship_coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:10 PM   #160
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Hmm, guess I'm the one that's been doing it wrong. . Check the oil cold and warm to see how much of a difference it makes in the oil levels. In my past few cars, it hasn't made much of a difference with the exception hot oil is a bit harder to read.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:14 PM   #161
My dinner reheated before my turbo spooled
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,702
Thanked 231 Times in 78 Posts
Hey no worries man! This is why I find this forum is useful (at times ). I just hope people actually read through the whole thread instead of just a specific post. The information us automotive enthusiasts have should be shared.

I'm just glad you replied in a mature way, other forums would be jumping on my back with e-thuggin. haha
Spaceship_coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:15 PM   #162
Willing to sell a family member for a few minutes on RS
 
underscore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kel-pwn-a
Posts: 13,340
Thanked 6,159 Times in 2,647 Posts
I've always checked it with the car off for at least 5 minutes, being a DOHC a good bit of the oil is all over the engine when it's running. I wouldn't think the oil being warm vs cold would make *that* much of a difference, obviously it'll expand when it's warm but by how much? a noticeable amount?
__________________
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S // 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD
1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer View Post
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp View Post
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa View Post
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
underscore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:18 PM   #163
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
I've always checked it with the car off for at least 5 minutes, being a DOHC a good bit of the oil is all over the engine when it's running. I wouldn't think the oil being warm vs cold would make *that* much of a difference, obviously it'll expand when it's warm but by how much? a noticeable amount?
The temporary oil film thats left in the engine internals would affect the oil level far more than any thermal expansion.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:24 PM   #164
Trollollolloing RS sine 2005
 
TOPEC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Richmond
Posts: 7,041
Thanked 2,355 Times in 678 Posts
dip sticks should have 2 "full" marks on it, at least on mine it does.

one is the "F" or full mark, its for cold readings
then above the mark about 1/8 to 1/4 higher has a notch on the side of the dip stick, this is the "full" reading for when the oil is hot. check ur dip sticks and see if theres 2 marks.

__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by MajinHurricane View Post
I had some girl come into the busser station the other day trying to make out with every staff member and then pull down her pants and asked for someone to stick a dick in her (at least she shaved).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1exotic View Post
Vtec doesn't kick in on Reverse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulic Qel-Droma View Post
its like.. oh yeah oh yeah.. ohhhh yeah... OOoooOohh... why's it suddenly feel a bit better... ohhhh yeahh... ohhh...oh..fuck... it probably ripped.
TOPEC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:35 PM   #165
RS controls my life!
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: coq
Posts: 775
Thanked 56 Times in 23 Posts
i guess technically it doesn't really matter if you check the oil when the engine is warm or cold as the difference in level should be minimal. Just check it regularly, more often if your vehicle is higher mileage, or you got vtakkk since you burn some oil when its engaged.
jack_dangerous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 11:19 PM   #166
OMGWTFBBQ is a common word I say everyday
 
death_blossom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 5,064
Thanked 179 Times in 95 Posts
I'm not gonna go through this whole thread, but what are people's opinions on 5w20 weight oil?

I know this is what is recommended and used by manufacturers these days, for many vehicles. but personally, I don't believe in using such a low viscosity oil. I know it is more efficient (less friction for the engine components allowing better fuel consumption), but I feel that a 20 weight simply won't provide the type of lubricating protection that a 30 weight (or higher) would.

for example, the RX-8 is supposed to use 5w20 as per Mazda's manual. I'm sure the Renesis motor has mad many advances compared to the RX-7's 13b(t) engines of yester year, but it's still a rotary engine. an oil burning, gasoline guzzling rotary... using a low viscosity oil like 5w20 isn't going to help in the oil burning department.

discussions? can someone please fill me in on what I'm missing on using 5w20 oil.
__________________
Nullify the Vegetarian crusade!
death_blossom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 12:53 AM   #167
I Will not Admit my Addiction to RS
 
skylinergtr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 569
Thanked 279 Times in 105 Posts
^^

on a car like a mazda rx-8 i would not use 5w-20 with it's high rev's. However, on say normal cars or trucks its fine. My 2002 Ford Explorer V8 has been using conventional 5w-20 since it was new. It doesn't leak or burn a drop. I've driven the piss out of it before. It runs absolutely great. Normal daily commuter 'no fun cars', 5w-20 viscosity should be fine, rev happy sport cars... look at heavier weights.
__________________
-Rod

1995 BMW 530i
1990 Mercedes-Benz 500SL
2002 Ford Explorer EB V8 4x4
2005 Acura RSX Type-S (SOLD)
1999 BMW 540i
skylinergtr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 03:31 AM   #168
Trollollolloing RS sine 2005
 
TOPEC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Richmond
Posts: 7,041
Thanked 2,355 Times in 678 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by death_blossom View Post
I'm not gonna go through this whole thread, but what are people's opinions on 5w20 weight oil?

I know this is what is recommended and used by manufacturers these days, for many vehicles. but personally, I don't believe in using such a low viscosity oil. I know it is more efficient (less friction for the engine components allowing better fuel consumption), but I feel that a 20 weight simply won't provide the type of lubricating protection that a 30 weight (or higher) would.

for example, the RX-8 is supposed to use 5w20 as per Mazda's manual. I'm sure the Renesis motor has mad many advances compared to the RX-7's 13b(t) engines of yester year, but it's still a rotary engine. an oil burning, gasoline guzzling rotary... using a low viscosity oil like 5w20 isn't going to help in the oil burning department.

discussions? can someone please fill me in on what I'm missing on using 5w20 oil.
in an engine thats designed to burn oil, using a higher weight oil isnt going to prevent oil burning like in a conventional 4 stroke where a thicker weight will prevent seepage pass the rings.
but again, if ur using a higher weight oil to prevent seepage pass the rings, ur just masking a problem that is there.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by MajinHurricane View Post
I had some girl come into the busser station the other day trying to make out with every staff member and then pull down her pants and asked for someone to stick a dick in her (at least she shaved).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1exotic View Post
Vtec doesn't kick in on Reverse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulic Qel-Droma View Post
its like.. oh yeah oh yeah.. ohhhh yeah... OOoooOohh... why's it suddenly feel a bit better... ohhhh yeahh... ohhh...oh..fuck... it probably ripped.
TOPEC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 07:27 AM   #169
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by death_blossom View Post
I'm not gonna go through this whole thread, but what are people's opinions on 5w20 weight oil?

I know this is what is recommended and used by manufacturers these days, for many vehicles. but personally, I don't believe in using such a low viscosity oil. I know it is more efficient (less friction for the engine components allowing better fuel consumption), but I feel that a 20 weight simply won't provide the type of lubricating protection that a 30 weight (or higher) would.

for example, the RX-8 is supposed to use 5w20 as per Mazda's manual. I'm sure the Renesis motor has mad many advances compared to the RX-7's 13b(t) engines of yester year, but it's still a rotary engine. an oil burning, gasoline guzzling rotary... using a low viscosity oil like 5w20 isn't going to help in the oil burning department.

discussions? can someone please fill me in on what I'm missing on using 5w20 oil.
It's just my opinion, but I believe 5w20 is not ideal for a number of reasons.
Here are my thoughts:



1. Any car that specs 5w20 can use 5w30 with no issues.

For example, in Japan, here is the manual for a car with the same engine in an RSX.



In the NA version, only 5w20 is recommended. Another thing to note is that in Japan for this engine, SL oils (an older spec) recommended where in NA, SM oil ir recommended.

2. Manufacturers that sell cars in North America that have lines of cars that use 5w20 qualify for fee reductions from CAFE regulations (corporate average fuel economy) This is incentive for car makers to push for 5w20.

Read:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corpora...e_Fuel_Economy


3. Cars that spec's 0w20 and 5w20 initially had some problems with oil consumption, were then spec'd back to 5w30. 8th Gen Corolla is one of these cars, I believe there was a TSB issued for this.

4. Cars that used to use 5w30 were then spec'd to use 5w20. Same engine, same car, just different year. A couple Ford models had this.

5. 5w20 causes more wear that 5w30, although 5w20 provides adequate protection as per SAE engine wear standards.

Spoiler!


6. 5w20's promises of increased fuel economy are virtually undetectable, although if a million cars used 5w20 vs 5w30, there would be a difference.


So, conclusions. 5w20 and 0w20 cause very slightly more engine wear, slightly more oil consumption at the expense of very very little fuel savings per vehicle. Cars that spec 5w20 can use 5w30 with zero repercussions. (I have yet to see any evidence against this. Cars used to spec different grades of oil for different ambient temperatures all the time; now it seems that cars want to use a one-oil-fits-all approach.)

I believe in a car that specs 5w20, you can use 5w30, or even 10w30 with zero issues. If you check the pour point for synthetic 10w30, they're good for temperature warmer than -20C. Your engine is not going to explode if you use a different grade of oil. My car's spec'd for 5w20, but I use a 5w30.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 11:45 AM   #170
Unofficial Tin Foil Hat Specialist.
 
skyxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 8,150
Thanked 1,526 Times in 602 Posts
Woot, glad the thread is back! With Prof liquid turbo at it!!!
Posted via RS Mobile
skyxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 11:55 AM   #171
RS.net, helping ugly ppl have sex since 2001
 
Alphamale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Burnaby
Posts: 9,441
Thanked 2,377 Times in 445 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidTurbo View Post

I believe in a car that specs 5w20, you can use 5w30, or even 10w30 with zero issues. If you check the pour point for synthetic 10w30, they're good for temperature warmer than -20C. Your engine is not going to explode if you use a different grade of oil. My car's spec'd for 5w20, but I use a 5w30.
I have personally found this not to be true. Depending on the age of the car and how well it's been taken care of, using 10w-30 on a 5w-20 or 5w-30 car may result in the car feeling "sluggish". This is of course, on Japanese and some American cars with American cars being more indifferent.

I'm not saying that you CAN'T use 10w-30 (as I'm sure as per the manual, it's probably okay and within spec)...some people have just told me they've felt a difference.
__________________
Feedback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason00S2000 View Post
Invisible sky daddies commanding people to do shit is just so beyond retarded, I feel like punching myself in the balls until I shit my computer chair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopstick View Post
4 years ago, I pulled up to burger king, and asked to get a teen burger. I realized after the 3rd time i said it, I was in the wrong fucking place.

(>___<)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_High
[19-10, 22:51] how many post do I need before I can fail TOS'D posts.
Alphamale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 12:25 AM   #172
OMGWTFBBQ is a common word I say everyday
 
Leopold Stotch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 6,044
Thanked 315 Times in 149 Posts
lol try checking the oil in a VQ35 after you run it

i swear ihave to wait like 10-20 mins before it settles. the WORST dipstick design i've EVER seen and i used to change oil for cars lol
__________________
1996 Honda Accord
1995 Nissan 240sx
2004 Infiniti G35
2005 Honda Jazz

BuySell Feedback
Quote:
"It's called Sex Panther by Odeon. It's illegal in nine countries... Yep, it's made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good ... They've done studies, you know. 60% of the time it works, every time. "
Leopold Stotch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 12:55 AM   #173
OMGWTFBBQ is a common word I say everyday
 
death_blossom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 5,064
Thanked 179 Times in 95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidTurbo View Post
It's just my opinion, but I believe 5w20 is not ideal for a number of reasons.
Here are my thoughts:


....
so, you're agreeing with me?
you totally reinforced my opinion on why 5w20 isn't really that great of a lubricant.


as for the checking oil thing, I was taught something different from my Toyota mechanic. he would run the car, cut the ignition and check oil right away. he actually wanted oil in the head so he could check what oil was in the oil pan. he would then ensure it was full with all the extra oil in the head. the idea was that you would want an oil pan full of oil (or near full) when you are driving with the rest of the oil in the head. this idea comes into play more-so for cars that are being driven hard, at say, a track day. you would want full lubrication available in both the head and block.

so now, when I check oil I make sure it is a little bit over the Full mark when the car has been sitting for a while.
__________________
Nullify the Vegetarian crusade!
death_blossom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 01:02 AM   #174
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leopold Stotch View Post
lol try checking the oil in a VQ35 after you run it

i swear ihave to wait like 10-20 mins before it settles. the WORST dipstick design i've EVER seen and i used to change oil for cars lol
I agree with you, I've checked the oil in my friend's VQ. It's also impractical/annoying to wait 20min to do a simple oil check. I think if you do a check when car is hot, and cold, you can get an idea at the level fluctuation. As long as the oil is safely within the MIN and MAX, I think you're .

I don't think there's a car where hot and cold makes the difference between MIN and MAX... if there was, it's a pretty shitty designed car. . For my car, (K-series), the difference between 5min after shutoff and overnight cold is about 1/8 of a quart, which is 1/8 of the dipstick difference.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 01:06 AM   #175
resident Oil Guru
 
LiquidTurbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 7,716
Thanked 10,457 Times in 1,794 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by death_blossom View Post
so, you're agreeing with me?
you totally reinforced my opinion on why 5w20 isn't really that great of a lubricant.
My opinion is that 5w20 is a 'good enough' lubrication solution, but not the best option. Car makers push for 5w20 as much as they can to reduce their CAFE fees.

I don't think it's right to classify the entire range of 5w20 as 'not that great'.

That being said, I'd happily use quality synthetic 5w20 over a low quality dino 5w30 made from a shitty basestock, assuming that 5w20 is spec'd for the application. But head to head same quality synthetic 5w20 vs 5w30, I'd take the minisicule, immeasurable drop in fuel econ for slightly better wear protection by using the 5w30.
LiquidTurbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Revscene.net cannot be held accountable for the actions of its members nor does the opinions of the members represent that of Revscene.net