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Old 12-26-2018, 09:14 PM   #5726
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Are the newer USB 3.1 ports any good at backwards compatibility? I need to pick up a new laptop but with previous ones we've had issues with USB 2.0 devices not working with the USB 3.0 ports, and I'm seeing a lot of newer laptops with only USB 3.1 and C
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:20 AM   #5727
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Are the newer USB 3.1 ports any good at backwards compatibility? I need to pick up a new laptop but with previous ones we've had issues with USB 2.0 devices not working with the USB 3.0 ports, and I'm seeing a lot of newer laptops with only USB 3.1 and C
I've noticed some usb 2.0 devices will not work with usb 3.0+ ports. I think it's device dependant more than the port itself.
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:14 PM   #5728
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Anyone have any experience in fixing Apple computers? More specifically Mac books?

My sister has a relatively new MacBook that got water damaged and at Apple they said it was going to cost almost as much to repair than replace? Is it possible at all to fix these things yourself
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:29 PM   #5729
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Anyone have any experience in fixing Apple computers? More specifically Mac books?

My sister has a relatively new MacBook that got water damaged and at Apple they said it was going to cost almost as much to repair than replace? Is it possible at all to fix these things yourself
Yea, used to be my job. The reason why its the cost of the computer is they would quote you top case (keyboard) as well as the mobo. Depending on damage you can fix the mobo yourself with some clever tricks (youtube it)

Top case would vary, sometimes it'll be fine as water just "traveled" thru it but varries. The only thing is after a botch fix, reliability can be shotty.

oh, opening a MacBook is a pain check ifixit
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:32 PM   #5730
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Here's a shop that was featured on the CBC at one point. Their website gives a price breakdown of the costs for common issues.

https://www.rossmanngroup.com/issues/turning/

If you're comfortable with tearing it down, try ifixit.

https://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook

I don't know of any local shops, but i'm sure someone on here does, or google might.
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:34 PM   #5731
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It's possible to fix everything yourself with the right tools and know-how. Depending on what's damaged, though, the parts themselves may make it cost-prohibitive.

Did they do any diagnostics/investigation into what needed to be replaced or was it just a conversation?
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:05 PM   #5732
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It's possible to fix everything yourself with the right tools and know-how. Depending on what's damaged, though, the parts themselves may make it cost-prohibitive.

Did they do any diagnostics/investigation into what needed to be replaced or was it just a conversation?
Never, since Apple doesn't do parts they do components.

on a laptop there's only a few
-screen
-top case
-mobo
-bottom case

sometimes the battery is by itself but a lot of the times its part of the top case

Thus why if you say liquid damage we just say top case and mobo, you look at the price get scared and buy a new one. OR fix it at another shop. Apple has to warranty everything, so if theres a spot of liquid damage on the mother board it has to be replaced.
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:47 PM   #5733
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if it's within 90 days maybe her cc covers it
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:44 AM   #5734
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if it's within 90 days maybe her cc covers it
Was just outside of both Apple and CC warrantee unfortunately and she already bought a new computer just trying to figure out if I can tackle it lol
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:11 PM   #5735
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Decided to build a new office computer:

Ryzen 5 2600
16 gig Team T force dark 3000MHZ ram
MSI B350M Gaming PRO AM4 AMD B350 MATX motherboard
EVGA 110-BQ-0600-K1 BQ 80 Plus Bronze Semi Modular 600W Power Supply
SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 250GB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe
have 2 drives from the old computer that I will also install
RX580 GPU. Overkill but I have 4 in a mining rig.
Still looking for a case.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:58 AM   #5736
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Looking to build a file server and possibly do some hosting as well. Core count still important?
Got an old Q6600 was thinking of using that instead.
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:32 PM   #5737
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Hey... question.. what are some best practices when it comes laptop batteries?

from what i've heard and read:

1. never let it get to 0% and then charge it up to 100%.
2. its safe to keep it plugged in but on occasion let it discharge.
3. start charging it at around 25% up to about 90%.
4. if not using laptop for a few weeks, get battery down to 40% or so and then store it
5. heavy gamers - when AC is always plugged in/ remove battery?
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:01 PM   #5738
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Hey... question.. what are some best practices when it comes laptop batteries?

from what i've heard and read:

1. never let it get to 0% and then charge it up to 100%.
2. its safe to keep it plugged in but on occasion let it discharge.
3. start charging it at around 25% up to about 90%.
4. if not using laptop for a few weeks, get battery down to 40% or so and then store it
5. heavy gamers - when AC is always plugged in/ remove battery?
Just leave it plugged unless you actually need to use the battery. That's it
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:51 PM   #5739
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Depends on the type of battery, i.e. chemistry, li-ion, nimh.

For the most part, I agree with 1, 3, 4, 5. If you can help it, it helps to keep the battery cool as well.

Further reading:
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...ased_batteries
https://www.tested.com/tech/1245-how...ble-batteries/
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:51 PM   #5740
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Just leave it plugged unless you actually need to use the battery. That's it
This is what I do as well.
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:20 PM   #5741
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No need to overcomplicate things. It's not the draining of batteries that wears them out, it's the charging. The less you charge a battery, the longer it will last. Also heat, and also slower charge = better.

So don't try to do all these "tricks" to extend the battery, which at best wouldn't improve anything and at worse will make things worse and more annoying. Just leave it plugged in unless you have to use it unplugged. The battery and OS will take care of the rest. It's not 1998 anymore
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:36 PM   #5742
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Yeah, why apply those "tricks" for a laptop battery. You'd only see them in electric vehicles in 2018.
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:49 PM   #5743
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modern Li-ion cells you don't want it to fall below 10%

always plug-in when you can

store around 50% if you don't expect to use it for months

cold cuts down on an individual cycle, heat is detrimental to overall life (aka. fast charging, and wireless charging to an extent)

they typically lasts 500 full cycles, unless it's critical products (ie. emergency flashlights, or drones = land in the water/some inaccessible place if critically low), i wouldn't worry about it much because by the time battery holds less than 80% of original charge the product is probably too old/slow anyways

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Old 12-29-2018, 05:54 PM   #5744
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Yeah, why apply those "tricks" for a laptop battery. You'd only see them in electric vehicles in 2018.
What?

Not sure what you're saying, but keep in mind that modern batteries (in both cars and laptops) run on software to do all these "tricks" by themselves. You literally should not be thinking about the battery. Don't do anything special, just charge it when it needs charging.
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:07 PM   #5745
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The tricks to prolong battery cycles mentioned in Acura's post, are used in electric vehicle battery management as well. With the exception of #2.

For expensive battery packs, it makes sense. Not so much for a laptop battery. Though, that's not what he asked.
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:44 PM   #5746
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Most laptops can be easily opened up and have their battery replaced as well.

All it requires is removing the bottom lid, removing a few screws, and disconnecting the ribbon cable.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:03 PM   #5747
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Though it might be a good idea to make a thread dedicated to all te building/upgrading questions, I was recently banned for a week so i couldn't ask some of the questions I wanted in terms of where NCIX price matches etc, but I think I got the lowest price I could from NCIX at least, here's the build I put together:


Intel i7 2600k
Asus P8Z68 Pro Z68
Mushkin Enhanced Frostbyte DDR3-1600 2X4GB
Sapphire Radeon HD 6950
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
WD Caviar Black 1TB
Corsair Pro HX650W
Fractal Design Define R3 ATX mid tower

over my lifetime/families, we've probably had between 14 and 16 computers starting way back with old atari machines etc. then computers like 386 etc.

this is probably the highest end/most current build i've ever had

EDIT* BTW, basically got the lowest price possible on every component at NCIX that they would allowably price match, taxes in the final was $1,520

Anyone have any advice/software to recommend regarding SSD's etc?
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Thought I’d throw in a little update here. After purchasing this initial computer in 2011 I’ve since upgraded the ram to 32GB as well as replacing the video card with an R9 390



To this day the card has run every game I’ve thrown at it at high or ultra settings. Currently playing BF5 on high settings getting 65fps or better online

This has been hands down been the best computer I’ve ever had and the one with the most longevity
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:22 PM   #5748
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Doubles as a nice heater when it gets cold.
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:25 PM   #5749
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sandy bridge 4eva

besides no nvme support, the 2700k with 16gb hand-me-down to my pops is still relevant

it hung in there when i tried the 1080 Ti...put a corsair h115i and a 2tb 850 in...currently running integrated graphics 4k30 lol waiting for the mid-range AMD navi gpu on 7nm

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Old 12-30-2018, 12:37 PM   #5750
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yea sandy bridge is unbelievable.

here's my still kickin i7 920 nehalem:





like hondaracer, my 970 is still able to play BFV at high around 55fps. thinking about upgrading to a 1070ti even though it will probably bottleneck my cpu but it should get me to ultra at 60fps+ at 1920x1200.

until dell makes a 27" oled/micro-led 4k 144hz+ monitor I'll stick with this ancient system as it does well enough at 1200p.
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