What did you do to your vehicle today?

[asian_XL]

added 25whp to the minivans (Toyota Alphard and Mazda 5)

[320icar]

I hate that there’s no industry standard for those auto trans with manual mode. Your photo shows Mazda is push forward for down, Toyota shows forward for up.

I mean... not that it matters, I drive a manual

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by asian_XL

added 25whp to the minivans (Toyota Alphard and Mazda 5)

Just remembered that I couldn't even change the AT shift knob on my old Accord Coupe. I could only replace it with the shift knob from the Crosstour, which has a nicer texture with stitches but still has the same shape.

You can play around with the knobs for these zig-zag ATs. I recall AT RX-8 has a shift knob that looks like the MT ones(that look like a rotor) except it just has the stylized "RX-8" at the top instead of the shift pattern.

Originally Posted by 320icar

I hate that there’s no industry standard for those auto trans with manual mode. Your photo shows Mazda is push forward for down, Toyota shows forward for up.

I mean... not that it matters, I drive a manual

Oh yeah, I remember renting a BMW X3 and tried to downshift on it to engine brake down a hill, and I kept going faster. Turns out, I was up shifting because I thought the manual shift direction is the same as the rental VW Jetta I drove a while ago...

MT is much more consistent with the forward gears(ignoring the rare dogleg pattern), but the reverse gear is a different story. It's all over the place and some of them require you to push/pull to get into it.

[Indy]

the differences i think come from two trains of thought.

Theory and Practice.

theory = up would be forward, down would be backwards.

practice = hard braking everything shifts forward including your hand...downshift should be forward, acceleration everything moves backwards including your hand...upshift should be backwards (I like this better personally, it feels more natural when you're actually driving)

then you have chrysler and they're like...nope...left and right for down and up.....

[underscore]

Originally Posted by Indy

practice = hard braking everything shifts forward including your hand...downshift should be forward, acceleration everything moves backwards including your hand...upshift should be backwards (I like this better personally, it feels more natural when you're actually driving)

I believe that's how paddles work as well. At least it was in the WRC.

[asian_XL]

Originally Posted by 320icar

I hate that there’s no industry standard for those auto trans with manual mode. Your photo shows Mazda is push forward for down, Toyota shows forward for up.

I mean... not that it matters, I drive a manual

manual has the same problem with the reverse gear position.

[immorality]

All the mechanical stuff for the supercharger installation is complete and I'm 99% finished with the engine side of the harness. I'll start pinning the ECU connectors tomorrow.

[320icar]

Originally Posted by asian_XL

manual has the same problem with the reverse gear position.

Yeah but Europe has it right. The only time you’re shifting from R is into 1, not 5 or 6. Makes way more sense in a ‘parking lot 5 point tuen’ situation to have R right next to 1st for epic efficiency

[underscore]

I think it's easier having them at opposite ends for the same reason. Since you go between the two directly but they cause you to go in opposite directions you want to minimize the chances of selecting the wrong one. Overshooting 3rd and getting 5th isn't a big deal, but overshooting 1st and grabbing reverse might ruin your rear bumper.

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by 320icar

Yeah but Europe has it right. The only time you’re shifting from R is into 1, not 5 or 6. Makes way more sense in a ‘parking lot 5 point tuen’ situation to have R right next to 1st for epic efficiency

My Series 2 RX-8 has the R left to 1(Series 1 RX-8 has the R right to 6). I agree it's more efficient, but sometimes, if I shift too quickly, I would go into reverse again... And that's with a reverse lockout that requires me to press down the knob to get into reverse.

[320icar]

To each their own. I like R next to 1 for when I do the rockford

[BIC_BAWS]

Originally Posted by asian_XL

Does anyone else find it annoying that you have to SMACK the shifter to get it into reverse? Is this all BMWs? I don't find it annoying bc its my first m/t car, but I have friends that have S2Ks/ITRs/Hondas that find it annoying.

[coneZONE]

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

Does anyone else find it annoying that you have to SMACK the shifter to get it into reverse? Is this all BMWs? I don't find it annoying bc its my first m/t car, but I have friends that have S2Ks/ITRs/Hondas that find it annoying.

Probably because older cars have non-synchronized reverse gear, so you also hear the classic "CLACK" sound when you shift into reverse. If you have difficulties shifting into reverse, either double clutch then Reverse, or shift into 2nd then Reverse.

[320icar]

^^ let’s also not forget bmw shifters commonly have their bushings wear out and get sloppy. It happens over time and you don’t notice how bad it’s gotten until you replace them.

[coneZONE]

^lol i guess i misunderstood bicbaws's post...

YEAH i've driven a few customer cars in, like E36, where the shift boot is worn a hole through where the shifter hits the console and you have to pull it so far left that the entire centre console moves, in order to get into reverse lmao

[RevYouUp]

Did a couple of things in the last couple of weeks to the new project. Swapped stock seats to USDM ITR seats, TE37s, new steering wheel and shift knob. Also gave a good compound to bring out the milano red paint.

Next up is to lower the car, get rid of the Ebay lip and possibly B swap over the summer.

[CCA-Dave]

Well, a contract in January turned into another contract in February, and that turned into an event in March...and just like that, I'm almost three months down on car time :P

On the plus side, thanks to these contracts I've driven some absolutely incredible roads and crossed things off my bucket list. I've driven through Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virgina, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio and Michigan.

I've visited Barber Motorsports Park (including laps of the track, tour of the museum and a special tour of the museum workshop), BMW club of America's museum, The Lane Museum, Rick Hendrick's private collection, The Corvette Museum, The Amelia Island Concours and the Kennedy Space Centre.

I've been lucky to tour some pretty incredible automotive shops as well. The Creative Workshop in Florida was unbelievable. Wood floors, a hidden dyno, and cars you only dream of. Detroit speed builds some incredible muscle cars of the SEMA-type...but the sneak peak at this year's SEMA cars was pretty exciting. White Post Auto Restorations might be the oldest restoration shop in the USA and four generations have owned/worked/run the place. Duncan Imports is a car-guys dream where the warehouses of cars just goes on, and on, and on. How about a beetle with less than 30 miles on it? How about four of them...from three different decades. Unreal.


But alas, it means the poor Rally Bug has just sat without me. Having finally returned home, I've been crunching away on it as much as possible. Photos are limited, as I'm trying to get the work done vs. document it.


Moving the shifter back 2" resulted in some interesting issues. First off, the mount on the transmission tunnel suddenly had a tonne of flex in it. Previously each of the mounting bolts (three of them) were "boxed in", but the move back results in flex I definitely didn't anticipate. Fortunately the addition of two extra bolts, and a 2" gusset welded between mount and trans tunnel resulted in a flex-free install. The carbon shift rod I built needed to be shortened, which was a bit of a pain since I had to rescue the aluminum end I had bonded in originally. Without my buddies lathe, there was no way to whip up a new one. Managed to shorten the rod without shattering it...and then got to do it all over again as I cut it a 1/4" too long!


With everything installed in place, I discovered a new problem…the shift rod angle is just steep enough that it was hitting something in the tunnel. I ended up cutting out a little more than I wanted, but worked out it was the throttle cable tube (figures, the only one I CAN’T cut out). Ended up having to cut the tube so I could move it, and then weld in a section to keep it inline so the cable won’t get cut.


Extended the brake light harness, since the switches are now inside the cabin, in front of the shifter.


Suspension has been re-installed, with all new bushings…simply because I was in there.


Hmmm…it would seem this box was not the correct set of wheel studs. Where the heck are my 25mm studs!?!


And taking care of some details…trying to freshen it up a little.


Fresh coat of black on the bottom of the chassis. I hate this job, but rather then patch some sections that needed it, I cleaned the whole chassis and painted it from front to back.



Under the dash is starting to look the business...

----



Top Tip! Before bleeding the clutch and brakes, confirm you actually installed everything tight and correctly...not just for test fitting. If you don't, you'll be figuring out how to pull the clutch pedal with it full of fluid so you can tighten the master cylinder to the mount. Oops.

After bleeding the brakes, I came to the conclusion that I also didn't consider that by doubling the rear brake pistons, I would need a larger handbrake master cylinder. Oops #2.

Having ordered the replacement parts, and them taking a while to get to me on the island...I figured I might as well take it out for a test drive.

First test drive with the car was, to be fair, less than exciting. The clutch is VERY different from my last setup, and I actually think Tilton may have been incorrect with their master sizing suggestion. The pedal travel is very short, so a smaller master cylinder might be needed to get some pedal travel back in the action. The initial brake bleed was pretty terrible as well, but that is somewhat to be expected. I've always found I need to drive the car for a few km and rebleed to get the job done correctly.

After another bleed, the handbrake came back (fancy that), but still has a longer throw than I would like. The foot pedal, however, feels much better!

The first half of the second test drive was better, but honestly not that great. A race car that runs kinda poorly and the controls are all in slightly new places is not the type of experience I was hoping for out of the shop. About a third of the way through the test, however, I remembered that I didn't build this car for puttering around town...so off to some empty highway, where I put my foot down.

OOOOOOOHHHHH, riiiiiight. THIS is when the car is fun! My gosh it's a blast when driven properly. Before destroying the tires I thought I should return home and get my alignment tomorrow.



Motor oil leak is one of two things...I think. It's either leaking from one of the cylinder studs (at the head end), or the oil cooler seals are leaking...or both. I cleaned off all the oil with brake clean, and after my tests one of the studs is wet. I'll pull the stud, reseal the washer inside the head and try again. You know, presuming I don't wake up to a puddle of oil under the car.

-----

Changing the seat has created a new problem. I can no longer reach the switches mounted on the side mount...one of which controls the water sprayer for the oil cooler, so I need to be able to reach them!







Figured I'd make a quick strap so I can close the door and lose the armrest. RS style pulls weren't really possible, since the door panels already have holes...so a simple strap it is.









Ugh. That simply will not do. Can't have the door panels looking like crap...so it's off to the drawing board!



Need to head out of my small town tomorrow to see if I can get the material I want for the new door panels I've got planned. On the plus side, it hasn't been dumping oil anywhere!

----
My solution for ugly door panels involves some ABS plastic sheet, some climbing webbing, and a couple hours of my time to get it all correct. 911RS inspired door panels!









-Dave

[hud 91gt]

Door panels turned out great. Still kind of wondering how you attached them though. Ha

[pintoBC_3sgte]

Got the front rotors and pads changed out. (Slotted StopTech) The rears will be another day

[CCA-Dave]

Originally Posted by hud 91gt

Door panels turned out great. Still kind of wondering how you attached them though. Ha

I'll let you in on a little secret...

Have you noticed that enclosed race car trailers all changed from having 6-million rivets or screws on them, to being completely smooth?

3M created a magic double-sided tape called "VHB" (Very High Bond). It's what holds trailers, RV's and ambulances together these days. It's also holding my door panels on.

You may be significantly more familiar with the material from using it with GoPro sticky mounts...

-Dave

[Hondaracer]

Porsche has the same arrangement as bmw with the R

I find the R from Porsche though feels like it’s a slightly different plane than the neutral position so it takes effort to find it when you need it

[boibuddha]

Last week, I removed these parts as part of my warm weather refresher.


- Bad Driver Side Axle that caused vibration on acceleration (Replacement part was OK for a couple of days, but developed the same issue. That "new" part was replaced the following Sunday)

- Bad Upper Balljoint (This Skunk2 piece pretty much gets replaced yearly. Was only adjustable upper control arm available at the time of purchase)

- 45 degree elbow (my winter intake) now replaced with the AEM Cold Air Intake I use for summer.

Then, something bad happened on Sunday night (same day I replaced the bad new axle).


It doesn't look that bad but, the rear quarter panel dented in about 6 inches deep (whole back tire tread was exposed). The door was jammed shut, I had to crawl out the passenger side.

Bye, Felicia

[CCA-Dave]

Spoiler!

Originally Posted by boibuddha

Last week, I removed these parts as part of my warm weather refresher.


- Bad Driver Side Axle that caused vibration on acceleration (Replacement part was OK for a couple of days, but developed the same issue. That "new" part was replaced the following Sunday)

- Bad Upper Balljoint (This Skunk2 piece pretty much gets replaced yearly. Was only adjustable upper control arm available at the time of purchase)

- 45 degree elbow (my winter intake) now replaced with the AEM Cold Air Intake I use for summer.

Then, something bad happened on Sunday night (same day I replaced the bad new axle).


It doesn't look that bad but, the rear quarter panel dented in about 6 inches deep (whole back tire tread was exposed). The door was jammed shut, I had to crawl out the passenger side.

Originally Posted by boibuddha

Bye, Felicia

That blows. Sorry to see.

[fliptuner]

Fuuuuck....clean EF's are so hard to find nowadays.

[bcrdukes]

RIP