For how long?

That depends on the guy who is tuning your car and what you are trying to do with it

If I include wheels and tires plus all the labour costs, probably around $7k now. Wheels and tires being about $2800 though. So really not that bad.

Feel free to message me if you ever need any help with anything. I have full BMW dealer software installed. Plus I have carly so I can do coding on your car. Since your a member here I'll do it for free if you ever want anything done.

Also my favourite site to use when Im working on my own car

https://www.newtis.info/

Its the entire BMW service guide that dealership techs would see.

dont forget www.realoem.com too for looking up diagrams and part numbers.

And bimmer.work if you're looking to buy a BMW. Punch in the last 7 digits of the VIN and you'll be able to see all the nerdy euro info and more importantly all the packages.

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Once you get one and COMMIT to it, it's a very rewarding experience (especially with the credit pop culture is giving them these days).
Those classic boxy lines are unmistakeable and still attractive from any angle.

I've owned only two BMW's (both e30's) first was an 86 325es, the second (and current since 2003) is an 88 325is.

I've considered newer models from the e36 onwards, but they keep getting more and more complex and made with cheaper quality parts.
I purchase my vehicles based on how robust and durable they are as they age (performance numbers mean nothing to me) - as a result I'll never own a newer BMW.

E46 M3 6MT Coupe
i bought it at 130k-ish kms over 5.5 years ago. It's sitting at 199k kms now just below 200k. ZERO major issues as unbelievable as this sounds... Yet i was scared to shit before i bought the car thinking something will break (knock on wood)

I was more paranoid with anything and went nuts with some "preventative" maintenance when i first got the car

@138k - Valves adjusted, Valve cover gaskets replaced
@145k - Subframe reinforced W/ Polyurethane subframe & diff bushings
@148k - Misfire in Cylinder 3 - Found someone parting out a M3 at the time with only 38K kms, snatched all 6 coilpacks and replaced all of mine, been trouble free ever since
@150k - kw v3 (bought used, only had 9000kms on them) & adjustable rear control arms replaced my worn old shocks and arms (Fronts were fine, rears were a bit aged)
@155k - Serpentine belt replaced
@180k - New shock mounts all around
@190k - Replaced control arm bushings with polyurethanes front and rear & CPV Valve replaced

This is of course NOT including obvious maintenance like Trans/Eng oil changes, brakes, filters etc.

With that said, i can totally tell the car is starting to age. My Front left door latch stopped working, My trunk latch works intermittently and my remote key stopped working as well. The C-Pillar interior trim on the right side is starting to sag a little and my right passenger arm rest trim piece is starting to bubble from the heat/sun.

So far i have already purchased the replacement parts USED but just too damn lazy to install them.

Used door latch - $50
Used trunk latch - $30
C-pillar trim - $50
Ignition switch (BMW diamond Keys are self charging keys while in ignition, most likely the ignition switch is broken to support the self charge) - Free, the store i bought the above parts were nice enough to just throw it in the deal for me

I can safely say my M3 has been more reliable than my previous s2000 that got me stranded on the road twice lol

I had a dream last night I owned a rat-bagged e46m3 smg. It was a good dream

Just did an oil change on mine.

Went with Motul like always. One thing I like about Motul is the fact they allow for "custom" viscosity by mixing different Viscs.

My usual is 7L of 10W60 8100 X-Power and 2L of 5W40 8100 X-CESS

Reasoning behind that is, Motuls 10W60 on its own is pretty thick and mixing in the 2L of 5W40 thins it out a bit. Not really harming the engine regardless since majority of the oil in there is 10W60 anyways.

I'd like to switch to Redline 5W50 but its so hard to find locally without the prices being hiked on it also.

My current setup runs me about $79 for the 9L after taxes. W/O Filter, since I can never get a consistent pricing on filters.

Also if anyone knows where I can pick up WIX Filters lmk, WIX Filters parent company was bought out my Mann so its the same shit now for half the price.

Also looked like someone tampered with my A/C since the high pressure cap was loose and the low pressure is behind the intake box lol. A/C is now blowing cold air again.

I think Motul should be better overall and easier to get. Redline is hit and miss, and often prone to supply issues where it has a limited retail reach, or unless you are "in the know."

I get my Motul oils through Frank @ Drivers Edge on Boundary. He also sells Redline oils and lubricants as well.

10w60 :ahwow:

Anyone attending the German car festival on the 21st? Trying to get the E34 ready in time. .

I just go to Lordco; Another reason I brought up Redline, theres a fellow in the S85 community(E60 M5 V10) who builds stroker kits and he recommends it.

Personally I'll stick with my method.

I'm one of those "stick to one brand" type of person, so currently my car is using the following

Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
Motul 10W60 - 5W40 Engine oil

I've read their MultiDCTF fluid is better than the OEM Pentosin DCT Fluid from BMW. I'm curious about their diff fluid also but I'm not stressing Im using the Castrol stuff right now


Anytime I go to a Lordco in a small town and ask for 10w60 they ask what cars use it, I always list the exotics

All Koenigseggs , Bugatti Veyron/Chiron and then I say my M3

no, car was in a hit and run last year when I went so its been fowled for me

I’m sure you’ll all scoff, but you could always run the Motorcraft 5w50 full synthetic (oem Ford RS/GT350) is pretty affordable. That’s what I use with my changes. I figured it’s good enough for the cars Ford used at the adrenaline academy (when you buy an RS/gt350 you get a free week of HPDE) it’s good enough for my 3km commute to work

Oil is an endless debate. Castrol was BMW's preferred, then it was Pennzoil, others said Liqui-Moly is good for preventing sludge, etc etc.

A typical m54b30 burns about 1L/1000km. I found that I burnt the most oil (5W40) on Liqui-Moly, then Castrol, then Pennzoil. Now I run Rotella 5W40, and its about 1L/2000km. Not too bad. Rotella is pricier, but at least i dont have to worry about not having oil every time I go out LOL.

I’m sorry, one litre per one thousand kilometres of use? That seems like a shit-tonne of oil

No bullshit. When I topped up oil, I would reset the trip odometer. Once it reaches 1000km, it will self reset to 0. Once that happens, I would top up as soon as possible. Like clockwork, I always needed oil to the quantity of a 1L small jug. So if you take oil changes into consideration, about ~6.5L, by the 5000km interval, all the oil would be mostly new. That said, since I've swapped to rotella, I do about 12,500km intervals, with quarterly testing at Blackstone. The data with rotella on e46fantatics suggested a recommended interval that equaled to 30,000km. I decided an arbitrary 60% earlier than recommended would work for me.

Where do you guys like to order OEM parts from that ships Canada Post? I want to order to new emblems front and rear.

Friend had his roundel stolen LOL. He said it was expensive, even from eBay. Best bet for local emblems, new, would be from the dealer. Hope you have a friend from the dealer who can get you cost + 10%.

i had a E46 330ci and it was def losing about a quart every 1500kms

BMW says that its normal for your car to lose up to a quart every 1000 kms :)

Its just partnerships/contracts.

Castrol and BMW had a partnership, it ended. Now its Shell Helix rebranded for them.

Ever since I changed my coolant thermostat I'm not burning as much oil not sure is cause is correlation but hey I can go 5K KMs now before it was like 1.5k to 2.5k


I order everything from FCPEuro.com cause of their lifetime replacement. Its insane and works.

As per second part, dealer would be best bet. I very rarely order parts online and have them shipped here, its usually shipped to the states. Send me a message, I can always cross over for parts I have Nexus. I don't mind picking stuff up for others as long as they reimburse for any duties fee applied ofc.

FCP or the dealer are my suggestions as well. Both have their positives and negatives, but for both, my experiences are well into the positive side.

I suggested FCP in page 1. The only downside is that Touringteg is out in Victoria, it would be hard for him to get to a US PO box. US is almost always cheaper than Canadian retailers, EXCEPT when you get it shipped to Canada. Then there's brokerage fee, customs/duty. Whereas if you were to go down yourself, you don't always get taxed.


Also, FCP takes fluids:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attac...9&d=1496425623

I've ordered oil from them but couldn't be fucked to send it back tbh.