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Just finished a refresh of our master bedroom. Installed 3 new electrical outlets, 1/4 round moulding around the baseboards (hid some gaps at the edges of the wood floor) Fixed the shitty paint job the previous owners did, they slapped latex paint on old glossy oil base trim without scuffing or primer so it was peeling off like saran wrap. They also never painted the crown moulding that they installed So Sanded it all down, 2 coats of primer on everything, trim, walls, ceiling. Then 2 coats of topcoat on everything. https://i.imgur.com/OsCUSgO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1WEFOJ1.jpg New fixtures, new furniture, new bed, new mattress. |
Resealed half the driveway. Not sure how long it'll last til I have to replace it with concrete. https://i.imgur.com/3MuIWnV.jpeg |
Does anyone have any tips for removing laminate stair treads that are glued on? They are being a total pain in the ass, have to hammer in pry bars in order to separate the laminate from the sub floor.... |
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Yeah, and it's OSB underneath and not plywood so it's just coming up in chunks... Gah. |
Ewwww even worse I'm sorry man. |
Air hammer? |
Is the OSB nailed to the stringers? If so, pull up the whole tread and replace them. I feel sorry for whoever has to redo my stairs. PL, screws, plywood, PL, flooring. :awwyeah: |
What are options for changing to smart thermostat (ie nest) when someone currently has 2 wire running to 5 zones. Buying 5 thermostats seems expensive... :concentrate: |
Our garburator that has been flaky on and off and leaky since we moved in 6 years ago finally crapped out in a fairly hilarious fashion: Anyway, quick trip to home depot, bought a new one, and swapped it in super easy. Less than an hour from checking out at home depot to it working again. However we then ran into an issue with the drain being clogged as my wife decided to clear out the sink gunk, which she ended up pushing some into the drain catch elbow. Nothing a bit of plunging couldn't fix once I sealed off the exits. |
So it's been a while since my last update (how time flies) and I thought I should post something in this thread. Floors are in! Kitchen is mostly in (need appliances and sink and some piping in, cabinet had a few doors that had to be refinished due to dings/misalignment). Paint is progressing, and the master bathroom is tiled now, just needs the fixtures installed. We're about 80% done I would say - need finishing electrical work, swap out the fixtures in the other bathrooms, and then we're on the home stretch of finishing touches. Stairs finally done - this took a lot of backbreaking work to chip off the old laminate and OSB before replacing with new OSB and 1/4" plywood topper. https://i.imgur.com/XJfakjRl.png https://i.imgur.com/Ml4D4rxl.png Floors are done! https://i.imgur.com/hHQaL28l.png https://i.imgur.com/K69IFMol.png Cabinets, countertops and backsplash in. I'm so happy with how the colour turned out and how everything looks. https://i.imgur.com/p97vKxal.png https://i.imgur.com/xv1Ucw0l.png https://i.imgur.com/qZ55cRCl.png (Missing door up top, need them to come back after fixing it) https://i.imgur.com/khh6iAUl.png I haven't taken pictures of the bathroom yet as the tile guy is still finishing up but it's also a huge difference. This project has been the bane of my life but also I have learned a lot in terms of how to do drywall repair and drywall replacement, mudding, painting, floor patching, and many other home improvement things. EDIT: The floor guys have to come back for the stairs, it's done. Some before pictures for those that forgot. |
Any troubles removing the wall with sliding doors and the pony wall? |
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https://i.imgur.com/8XfBQ7ll.png https://i.imgur.com/6egfAnJl.jpg And the sliding door had the strongest box-out known to man, as it was screwed and glued to the beam above so hard that when we struck it with a hammer it didn't move but the rest of the townhouse did. :lol We basically had to use the sawzall to remove it piece by piece. https://i.imgur.com/PlihtrIl.png It does look a lot better with the sliding doors gone though. So much better. https://i.imgur.com/XxGcZail.png |
cabinet color looks great We were going to do a blue/green type of cabinet as well but Merit had it as their "premium" product color even though its the same cabinet as the lower priced ones, ended up not using Merit anyways but it wasnt a great experiance being told a specific color was a 25% premium over another color lol |
We did some updates to our house over the last little while. We replaced all the door/window casing & crown moulding, wrapped a wall with shiplap and added a wainscott feature wall to our master bedroom. If any of you need any advice on moulding, feel free to send me a PM as I work for a moulding company in sales. https://ibb.co/nM6bTcN https://ibb.co/94rvL1n https://ibb.co/sWrYm0K |
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So for your scenario I'd personally be looking more into a centralised control system. For an off the shelf solution, something like Tekmar's product offerings (Made in Kelowna!). I'd start with their Model 400 boiler/4 zone house controller: https://www.watts.com/products/hvac-...ntrols/400/400 Add a Model 323 4 zone expander https://www.watts.com/products/hvac-...ntrols/313/313 Add 5x Model 532 Tekmarnet 2-Wire Thermostats (allows you to reuse the existing wiring in your wall) https://www.watts.com/products/hvac-...ostats/532/532 Add Model 486 Gateway for IP connection https://www.watts.com/products/hvac-...sories/486/486 Not going to be cheap, probably looking at a couple grand all in, but you'd get superior control of your system than any other "smart thermostat" solution out there. Like the ability to do water temperature scheduling based on outside air temp (IE if it's warmer outside the system will reduce water temps accordingly, saving you energy) Just FYI hvac control/building automation is what I do for a living, albeit on a much greater scale (IE institutional buildings etc) with much more complex systems. |
what would you suggest for a 2-wire digital/smart t-stat in a single zone hydronic radiant floor heating system? seems like a lot of fancy stats want that 3rd wire which would not make things easy. |
Yeah your options are pretty limited, and for a single zone that whole system that I described above is overkill. This one looks like a Wifi stat that runs on batteries that would work: https://www.amazon.ca/GEO-WH-Connect...s%2C219&sr=1-4 To be honest though, these smart T-stats are a bit overrated in my opinion. I replaced my old faithful Honewell VisionPro 8000 with an EcoBee3 that I got free through work. Other than the initial setup, I can't remember the last time I opened the app or accessed it through the online service. Just get a basic battery powered t-stat that allows you to program and occupancy schedule, that's really the most important feature for "saving energy". |
thanks for the reply. i have a $30 uber basic one but mine's been going a little wonky resetting, i think bad connection, and if figured instead of getting another $30 to splurge and get something a little nicer, maybe wifi etc, but they either get quite more expensive and/or won't fly with a 2w system, or if it did, the batteries die fast as the battery was meant as a backup upon power loss to the home. |
Finally closed on a detached home in Coquitlam after actively looking since July! Already thinking of repairs and updates, if anybody has any recommendations for the following things that services Coquitlam, would love to hear it: - garage door replacement - concrete patio pouring and patio cover - natural gas fitter to install natural gas line to kitchen and deck |
For your garage door... https://www.revscene.net/forums/6956...ml#post8480610 https://www.caspenterprises.com/ Old thread but business is still in operation and garage door is as good as new. |
Gonna need a recommendation for a roofing company to help me put a tarp over my roof so that I can get through this winter before replacing it in spring / summer time. FailFish We noticed 2+ weeks ago during that first catastrophic atmospheric river event where our asphalt shingled roof is leaking. Since the discovery, I have attempted to patch the roof up 3 times using those brush-on type roof leak sealant. Initiallly at the edges of the loose shingles in the area. And when that didn't stop the leak, I painted / sealed all the shingle edges in the vicinity of the leak in an area bigger than before. And when that still didn't stop the leak, I painted / sealed the a yet larger area (and not just the edges now) around the wet spot. None of that has been able to stop the leak yet, and I am just about ready to throw in the towel. It almost feels like I should have hired the pros from the get go to save myself all that agony... So would anyone have a lead on a roofing company they've used before, and is happy with? |
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