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Go Back   REVscene Automotive Forum > Vancouver LifeStyles (VLS) > House and Home Renovations

House and Home Renovations THIS SPACE OPEN FOR ADVERTISEMENT. YOU SHOULD BE ADVERTISING HERE!
Designing your new condo or townhouse? Renovating your kitchen? Share your photos and project ideas with other experts here! We're not just modifying our cars anymore..

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Old 05-30-2021, 09:35 PM   #101
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My unit is getting pressure washed and painted this coming week. I went around and trimmed hedges for access, hammered in some popped nails, removed nails and hooks left by the PO, filled them and repaired some caulking around windows and doors. If you think the contractors, strata hired are gonna do that shit...
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:46 AM   #102
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Did a bunch of pressure washing this weekend. Neighbour leant me one of these for the driveway:



Holy shit did that make life easy. I had to break up our concrete pad in the backyard over two days with the wand because my hand would get stiff/sore. I did my whole driveway in maybe 30-45 mins, which is at least 2-3x the size of my concrete pad, using this attachment.

Never again will the wand be used for concrete surfaces lol
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:38 PM   #103
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Nice. I was debating buying one of those.

I think I'll get the style with 3 or 4 in a row, on wheels. Then I can flip it upside down, to wash my undercarriage.

https://www.amazon.ca/ZALALOVA-Press.../dp/B085HJLSWY
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can we stop, my pussy hurts...
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fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol
Originally posted by Fei-Ji
haha i can taste the cum in my mouth
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when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad


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Old 05-31-2021, 10:55 PM   #104
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What size? Moving any fixtures/drains? 1st/upper floor? Crawlspace underneath? What finishes/fixtures?
I'm looking to re-do my washroom as well. Upper floor of a townhouse, about 12x9? I can get better measurements.

Would like to swap a tub (60x30) for a shower, tile. Would like to re-tile the floor, and get rid of the ugly tile that the previous owner left on the wall in crooked patterns. We have already picked out the vanity, faucets, etc.

Does anyone have any recommendations for tile guys? I have a plumber friend who can handle setting up the Kerdi kit and the vanity etc, but need a tile guy to do the shower and floor tile...
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:57 AM   #105
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Bought a new track light for my kitchen that I am going to install this weekend. It simply attaches in the center of the track where the electrical portion is.

I need to fill two holes in the ceiling where the current track light is attached to. It uses the v shaped toggle bolts, and the builder created some decent sized holes in the ceiling for them.

What is the best way to patch these holes? It is a popcorn ceiling.
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Old 06-01-2021, 01:33 PM   #106
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Scrape off the popcorn, then mud the hole. Unless you don't care about matching the texture, cuz then just fill the the hole and paint
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Old 06-01-2021, 01:46 PM   #107
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Bought a new track light for my kitchen that I am going to install this weekend. It simply attaches in the center of the track where the electrical portion is.

I need to fill two holes in the ceiling where the current track light is attached to. It uses the v shaped toggle bolts, and the builder created some decent sized holes in the ceiling for them.

What is the best way to patch these holes? It is a popcorn ceiling.
Fill it first with mud or glue or anything that will create a solid fill below the level of the popcorn

Matching the popcorn is a bit of an art but the best way I can describe is it get some drydex or finishing mud, put a bunch on your finger and then dab and twist your finger in an attempt to match the texture

It takes a bit of work but you can get it close. If you think you fucked up though let it dry and then chip away at it/touch it with a sanding sponge etc. Donít try and pull it all off when itís still wet if you think it didnít work out. Let it dry first then mess with it
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:38 PM   #108
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Can you fill the hole with Drydex as well? Or would that go on top of the filler? From what I have read, spackling paste doesn't shrink like mud when filling a small hole.

Edit: Or is it important to use a joint compound to fill the hole?

Last edited by Liquid_o2; 06-01-2021 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:07 PM   #109
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You can use drydex as well no biggy but it may take a few applications to fill a decent hole. Don’t try snd fill it all in one shot if you’re using drydex
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:58 AM   #110
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I borrowed a gas weed trimmer from someone here to edge my lawn. Holy shit did it look easier and nicer in the YouTube tutorials.
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Old 06-02-2021, 12:30 PM   #111
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:35 PM   #112
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How many rock chips on the neighbors car?
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Originally posted by v.b.
can we stop, my pussy hurts...
Originally posted by asian_XL
fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol
Originally posted by Fei-Ji
haha i can taste the cum in my mouth
Originally posted by FastAnna
when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad


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Old 06-06-2021, 10:22 AM   #113
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So gents, what do you think?

Can I use PB B'laster or equivalent penetrant and drill out this little nubby bit holding the adapter using a cobalt drill bit?

Previous home owner tightened / threaded this on all wrong (you can kind of see it if you look closely) and every time I turn the water on, it sprays water out. Thanks in advance!

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Old 06-06-2021, 10:42 AM   #114
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It's probably only brass, so should drill out easily.

Worst case, shut off the water and replace the valve. Easy enough to access.
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Old 06-06-2021, 10:55 AM   #115
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It's probably only brass, so should drill out easily.

Worst case, shut off the water and replace the valve. Easy enough to access.
Will a general purpose drill bit work or is a cobalt drill bit recommended?

Trying to get in some garden work while the weather is good. It's been total shit this past month here in Toronto and its 30+ degrees out right now.
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:35 PM   #116
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So gents, what do you think?

Can I use PB B'laster or equivalent penetrant and drill out this little nubby bit holding the adapter using a cobalt drill bit?

Previous home owner tightened / threaded this on all wrong (you can kind of see it if you look closely) and every time I turn the water on, it sprays water out. Thanks in advance!

If you know how to solder, it will be quicker if you just cut off the existing hose bibb and replace it with a new one
FYI that broken bolt that's stuck in there is design like that. The head is suppose to break off so that you can't remove the vacuum breaker from the hose bibb
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Old 06-06-2021, 01:37 PM   #117
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Oh interesting. I did not know that.

Can I simply remove the entire hose bib by twisting it off and replacing it along with the vacuum breaker? Turns out everyone here has the vacuum breaker and it's required by law by the municipality. If yes, will I need any kind of sealant etc?
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Old 06-06-2021, 02:44 PM   #118
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Can I simply remove the entire hose bib by twisting it off and replacing it along with the vacuum breaker?
Looks like your hose bibb is soldered on to the copper pipe coming out of the house, so you can't just twist it off. Cut off the old and solder in the new one. You can buy the vacuum breaker separately.


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Turns out everyone here has the vacuum breaker and it's required by law by the municipality. If yes, will I need any kind of sealant etc?
No sealant or teflon required. The new vacuum breaker comes with a new flat garden hose gasket/washer. Just spin the new one on to the hose bib. Just don't install the breakaway bolt this time.
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Old 06-07-2021, 12:41 PM   #119
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Spent the weekend doing some light demolition work at the new townhouse. Ripped down the wood paneling - the previous owner really loved his glue. He literally glued everything to everything else. The cabinets were built in place as well, it was a total pain in the butt to remove in one piece (a friend claimed it for his basement workshop area). We got the cabinets out with no major damage, thankfully there's only one section. The guy had built it behind and around the drainage which was a major headache, we had to carefully snip a section to get it out.

Even with the ugly marks on the wall, the wood paneling getting removed improved the room by a huge margin.







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Old 06-07-2021, 12:44 PM   #120
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How can you tell it’s soldered on?

Where the CSA and X Mark are located you should be able to use some WD or somthing and loosen those threads then just hold the pipe and back off the entire bib. Some Teflon tape and a replacement bib and you’re good. I did one of mine not too long ago
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Old 06-07-2021, 01:51 PM   #121
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How can you tell itís soldered on?
That's how these hose bibbs are installed.
That threaded portion that you see is all part of the hose bibb body. You either solder the 1/2" copper pipe inside the thread part or you thread in the hose bibb into a 1/2" female fitting.
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Old 06-07-2021, 02:15 PM   #122
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Spent the weekend doing some light demolition work at the new townhouse. Ripped down the wood paneling - the previous owner really loved his glue. He literally glued everything to everything else. The cabinets were built in place as well, it was a total pain in the butt to remove in one piece (a friend claimed it for his basement workshop area). We got the cabinets out with no major damage, thankfully there's only one section. The guy had built it behind and around the drainage which was a major headache, we had to carefully snip a section to get it out.

Even with the ugly marks on the wall, the wood paneling getting removed improved the room by a huge margin.

[img]... [/img]
Seeing some real positives! Tiles under the cabinets = just put new ones in and don't need to worry about retiling. Just some mud work to fix up the drywall before painting. Nice simple DIY projects.
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Old 06-07-2021, 02:46 PM   #123
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Seeing some real positives! Tiles under the cabinets = just put new ones in and don't need to worry about retiling. Just some mud work to fix up the drywall before painting. Nice simple DIY projects.
But we're going to change out the laminate for vinyl plank everywhere else, and so the tile might as well come out so that we can just do vinyl plank in the kitchen to update the look and match the new cabinets better... That'll be a fun job.

Oh, the transition and the "molding" is absolutely terrible, I'll take pictures next time to show you guys. Part of why we're going to re-do the floor in the kitchen as well.
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Old 06-09-2021, 01:18 PM   #124
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Nice. I was debating buying one of those.

I think I'll get the style with 3 or 4 in a row, on wheels. Then I can flip it upside down, to wash my undercarriage.

https://www.amazon.ca/ZALALOVA-Press.../dp/B085HJLSWY
Surface cleaners and water brooms (the other name for the "undercarriage cleaner") don't really do the same job, the water broom doesn't have enough pressure to really "scrub" concrete clean like the surface cleaner. I have both.

The water broom also broke my wand. The wand isn't really designed to handle the weight of the thing bumping around on the end, it led to a hairline crack that constantly leaks water now, and the brass fitting holding it together gets absolutely pounded.
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Old 06-10-2021, 07:15 PM   #125
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Goodbye and good riddance, tile floors. Was not too bad overall to get off, but did take a lot of muscle and elbow grease. Thanks to my friend who helped me and provided the giant crowbar (5ft long and about 50 lbs) to take the tile out easier than what I was planning lol. The PO laid the tile on OSB so it was more work than if it had been on plywood.
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