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I'm really just dabbling in off-camera lighting. I already have a 580 which is why I thought to get wireless triggers and a cheaper ttl flash. It definitely won't be used in a studio setting. The most usage would probably be informal portrait sessions and Christmas pictures of the family. I've been making it work with on-camera flash, but I'm confident I can get better results with off camera flash. I'll definitely check it out though. Thanks again. |
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Went to an estate sales/auction locally with friend today... wasn't expect to get anything but ended up picking a Canon 7 with 50mm F0.95 in great condition for $250+10% convenience fee!!! :sweetjesus:. Pick up date is on Monday... will try to source an adapter and take a few shots next week (last resort is picking up a roll of film and rock it old school! :fuckthatshit: ) |
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The funny thing though, is no one except me bid on it. I guess no one really knew Canon's rangefinder (it was listed as Canon's Rangefinder from 60s with 50mm Lens). The Leica lot, on the other hand had a crazy bidding war. It had a 35mm+50mm summicrons+Leica M3+M6... and went all the way to $2200 |
That lens is currently on Ebay for between 2500 and 3000 dollars. Congratulations! |
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On the other hand, a client of mine just gave this lens to me: :D http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pstgpr0c2y.jpg |
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and what did you give him in return? :hay::moon::jizz::ifyouknow: |
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He dropped this particular lens, and Canon deemed it "uneconomical to repair" so his insurance bought him a new one, even though this lens still works perfectly. The barrel has a small crack in it, the hood is broken and the front of the lens has a big dent in it, but it works fine. He wasn't using it anymore, so he showed up last week and handed it to me....I was speechless. It's a heavy mofo, that's for sure... |
soooo when we shooting again =D |
Got a killer deal on Yongnuo YN-622C triggers. Off camera flash just blows my mind. The possibilities! Now I just need another (preferably TTL) speedlight. No good deals on 580EXIIs :( |
I will give you my soul for the 600mm f4 Senna4 |
Hmm... I'm going on Safari in the summer... a 600F4 seems fairly ideal... maybe we can work out a reasonable rental rate? :D Edit - it blows my mind that that version of the 600F4 you have, the 1988, is 6kg and 17.9" x 6.6". The newest 600 F4 ISII is 17.6" x 6.6", almost the same size but 3.9kg overall, or almost albs lighter, by adding image stabilization. Technology, you so crazy! |
Haven't gotten time to play around with it. It turns out that the set is in an incredible condition. Except some dirt on the surface, it's absolutely mint. I read online that many Canon 7 experience wrinkles on the shutter curtain. But this one was absolutely flat and as new. Here it is: Canon 7 with 50mm F0.95 https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/...5064ab21_o.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/...6656d963_o.jpg And the "Dream lens" https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/...228db4c3_b.jpg Already received the adapter for A7 from eBay. I will try to snap a few shots next week. |
What's with the blocked out serial? I can't see how that would really be a security risk? Pretty sweet glass though... the noctilux of the FD world /drool |
I have had people scamming others with gear pics I posted and accused me as scammer (based on the matching serial). So I now add watermark and erase any serial. Even if they some Photoshop their way around watermark, I don't have to deal with accusations. Posted via RS Mobile |
Craziness. What a world we live in. |
So going to Europe in May i have my T4i honestly i havent used it much in the past 5-6 months, all my gear is virtually brand new. Planning on brining my T4i + Kit lense, 50mm, GoPro Hero3+ with my DSLR what is my best option for just all around shooting not having to adust manual settings during the day/sunlight, program auto/ AV mode? |
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Auto would mean you don't touch anything but the shutter button. The camera chooses everything for you. You then would proceed to blame the camera wholly for any bad pictures. AV mode means that you are choosing the aperture at which your picture is taken. So any bad pictures may possibly be on you. If you're using your kit lens, just put it in auto. You don't have access to wide apertures anyways, so unless you need to stop down to f13 or something, there's no point in using AV in your case. If you're using your 50, you'll notice you might want to control the aperture to control the depth of field (read: the amount of background blur). So AV mode is your best bet. Settings aside- if you're not getting much use out of the dslr, why don't you try and sell it and buy a compact (Sony RX100 or a cheap m4/3rds or used NEX). It seems as though the flexibility of a DSLR is something that's not as important to you. So there's really no point in lugging around something as big as a DSLR when a compact can do just as well in the sun. |
I do (or at least attempt) lots of night stuff, star trails, panoramics, and other stuff I'm not very good at with my DSLR which is why I just don't use a P&S For my trip id rather take my DSLR and get high quality images shooting auto or in AV over just buying a P&S because at least then I have the option to go to full manual and get some great shots when I actually have time to configure stuff as I'm not proficient enough right now to quickly find my settings My main concern in shooting in manual modes etc are pictures being out of focus which is why I'd prefer to shoot in auto or AV when just walking around Posted via RS Mobile |
Use AV mode, learn to manually select focus points, learn when to use what focusing and metering system, learn how to set correct aperture, learn how to use exposure compensation, learn how to use exposure lock, and learn how to use bracketing If you manual focus, I believe most cameras have a manual focus motor built-in to the viewfinder. |
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Out of focus is dependent on your choice of focus points. In auto, you leave everything to the camera, meaning that you may not get what you want in focus. Like Razor said, use Av and learn to select focus points. Even easier, set the focus point to center and learn to "focus and recompose" your shots. That will guarantee (to an extent) that you're focusing on the subject that you want focus to be on. Metering is a different beast. If you're just trying to shoot randomly and leave things to chance, don't bother with it as it can be overwhelming. Forget about exposure lock/compensation/bracketing I think, if you really want the best photos from your trip, take your camera out now and learns the ins and outs of everything. Ignore what "mode" you should choose and play with everything. They all have a specific use and are not interchangeable. Razor outlined the common functions of a higher-end camera that allow you to get the exact photo you want to take, and not just the one that your camera took. Just because you're taking a SLR doesn't mean you're going to get the best pictures, especially if you plan on auto'ing it throughout your trip. If you take the few hours to figure out how your camera works and practice, you won't even notice changing your settings to get the exact photo you want. That's of course if you really care about getting the best photos out of your trip. Otherwise, you can ignore what I just said. |
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