I agree, if there was a 17" rMBP I would have been all over it.

I'm hoping the new upcoming thunderbolt display will help alleviate that.

I built a budget OM-D kit a month ago to compliment my DSLR kit. Doesn't have OVF but the EVF does everything you need. I find myself using the LCD/EVF 50/50 and it focuses like no other.

absolutely 0 regret so far

I need a slider cam thingy :(

New to camera's, just seeing where is the best place in town for camera accessories?

Cases, straps, memory, lenses etc...

You can check out Broadway Camera.

Either spend the money or save your money.

Spend $500 for a decent one. Some in that price range have motors. You want the kind with bearings, not just sliding along a rail. I really like the design of the Edelkrone slider.

OR...find a DIY instruction and build one. Don't buy the cheap ones. They're not smooth enough.

Remember our old buddy at photographertoronto.com???

http://easycaptures.com/fs/uploaded/578/6454060343.png
View Screen Capture

my old DIY slider that I'm thinking of selling

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...SliderCam3.jpg

I need a Nikon D3200
Does anyone have a Nikon D3200 that I may borrow for Sunday? I just need the body and the battery, nothing else.

When do you guys choose to PP your photos B/W?

EDIT: Noticing that I'm getting a lot not-so-sharp photos lately after I picked up a Nikon 35.8

Compared to my older kit lens, it doesn't have VR because apparently you don't need it at that focal length. Now, if I'm shooting with a lower shutter speed, would VR make a difference?

Just curious.

Trade in my 18-200mm VR at Kerrisdale Camera for $225 or sell privately? Not sure what its really worth though.

You could get almost double what Kerrisdale is offering you if you sell privately - $400ish

What shutter speed are you shooting at? the only way to tell if it's your shaky hands that are blurring the photo is to put it on a tripod and shoot the same photo.

as a general rule, you usually want to shoot at 1/focal length or faster - ie, 1/35 or faster for your lens. (that's without VR/OS).

^^
I'd like to get as much as I can for the lens but it might be hard to sell. I have a four filters for it as well that I would have to sell too. I think those would sell quicker then the lens.

I'm not 100% sure on the VR thing, all I can say is that I use a tripod no matter what settings or lens I use.

Privately sales you can always make more...

Yeah.. I always check my photos on the LCD screen to see if it's shaky as well. Just hated having to throw out this particular shot that I thought was tack sharp.

LCD alone doesn't tell you much because it is so small, it can often give the illusion that things are clear and sharp when they really aren't . You have to use it to go to 100% zoom to see. Some of the nicer DSLRs have a one button push that autozooms into the image 100% that you can set in the settings..

What filters do you guys recommend for someone that does a mix of street and daytime landscape shots?

I'm thinking of picking up a polarizing filter.

I have UV filters right now. I'm assuming they stack?

UV filters do nothing but protect your lens. The polarizer would give you more color saturation and contrast but nothing u cant fix in post editing anyway. Although it does a great job at eliminating reflections or shimmering light. Works great on water or anything with lots of highlights in general.

Polarizer can be useful for adjusting the contrast of the sky to other objects (mountains, clouds, etc.) in daytime shots, as well as for bringing out more contrast/definition in clouds, snow, etc. These things CAN be done in post, but it's a lot of work. Eliminating reflections, on the other hand, is virtually impossible in post. A polarizer is the one filter than can't be duplicated in Photoshop.

Keep in mind that you'll lose ~2 stops of light with a polarizer, so in lower light you'll need to adjust your shooting appropriately. It doesn't affect how the camera meters, but for example, if you're shooting at 1/100, with the same ISO and aperture, a polarizer will mean you have to shoot at 1/25s... so if you're on the verge of motion blur there, you'll have to decide on another way to compensate.

Also, make sure you get a circular polarizer (CPL) rather than linear - linear polarization will adversely affect auto exposure and AF.

^not all CP's lose 2 stops of light

I highly recommend the Hoya HD line, I have one and its much better than some of my cheaper brands. Review here

And cheap place to order them from Here

Sigma announced a 18-35 f/1.8. That would make a decent walk around lens for me =)

Sigma Confirms Rumors: The 18-35mm f/1.8 is the Real Deal | Fstoppers

are the built-in HDR settings in my T4i any good or do most people use programs to compile them?

Does anyone know where I can purchase a Glidecam HD4000 locally before I order one from bhphotovideo?
I've already asked all camera equipment rental places and they won't sell.

Thanks in advance
Mike

Am I the only one that really enjoys using an EVF? Having the zoom feature using manual focus lenses in the viewfinder is pretty sweet.