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Old 06-09-2014, 10:53 PM   #51
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Use mechanics wire or home wiring that's rigid and fish it through
I was about to try the magnets, but I found some flexible wire lying around, not exactly sure if it's 'mechanics wire'. Either way, I shoved it in the hole, thinking it was too stiff and would get caught on the bends.. but it just shot all the way through! much easier than I thought. Thanks for all the suggestions.. +1 thanks for Iron Chef
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:02 AM   #52
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I attempted to gravity bleed my brakes just now and ran through a whole quart but my brake pedal still doesn't have the stiffness I was expecting. I should note that only on the last corner (front left) did the reservoir actually start draining on its own all the way through the bleeder nipple. I worked from rear right, rear left, to front right, then front left. Every time I cracked open the bleeder the fluid would come out as expected, but would stop maybe about 10 seconds in. Pretty sure I either skipped some step or I did something but am not quite sure. I'm guessing part of the problem is that when I did the rears, I only had the rears jacked up with 2 jackstands so I guess the BMC was almost level with the rears? Ionno, maybe someone can chime in.
How long was it sitting for? I thought to gravity bleed you needed all 4 bleeders open and the car had to sit for quite a while.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:20 PM   #53
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I attempted to gravity bleed my brakes just now and ran through a whole quart but my brake pedal still doesn't have the stiffness I was expecting. I should note that only on the last corner (front left) did the reservoir actually start draining on its own all the way through the bleeder nipple. I worked from rear right, rear left, to front right, then front left. Every time I cracked open the bleeder the fluid would come out as expected, but would stop maybe about 10 seconds in. Pretty sure I either skipped some step or I did something but am not quite sure. I'm guessing part of the problem is that when I did the rears, I only had the rears jacked up with 2 jackstands so I guess the BMC was almost level with the rears? Ionno, maybe someone can chime in.
could be the bleed screws have a bit of a clog in them. Try opening one nipple at a time and step on the brake pedal to force the fluid and clear the clog.
Happens every now and then at work. When im using the brake fluid flusher, sometimes barley a trickle comes through. So i step on the pedal to force fluid through the nipple and clean out the clog
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:44 AM   #54
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How high is too high to raise coilovers? Will I risk damaging anything by moving the spring perches nearly to the top for a couple days to gain ground clearance?
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:45 PM   #55
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Big troubles trying to take out flexible brakes lines on the datsun. Flare but wrenches, penetrating fluid, heat and all I've got to show for it is some rounded off nuts.

If I have to cut the hard lines, can I reflare them? Or am I now taking on refabrixating brake lines? I could cut the rubber ones as I have stainless braids to replace them, but that doesn't help me when I install on the ones.

Anyone know of where I can rent a flaring tool? I think they are expensive.
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:48 PM   #56
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For normal brake size, it should be relatively cheap thanks to Harbor Freight / Princess. Should be fine if you just need to do it once or twice, since the tubes are soft metal anyways.

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Big troubles trying to take out flexible brakes lines on the datsun. Flare but wrenches, penetrating fluid, heat and all I've got to show for it is some rounded off nuts.

If I have to cut the hard lines, can I reflare them? Or am I now taking on refabrixating brake lines? I could cut the rubber ones as I have stainless braids to replace them, but that doesn't help me when I install on the ones.

Anyone know of where I can rent a flaring tool? I think they are expensive.
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:04 PM   #57
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I bought 2 different flaring kits before and I don't think they were over $20.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:06 PM   #58
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Hmm, i'll have to look into it. According to my dad (Mechanic), I could try reflarring them, but if the current lines are not in perfect shape, they could either crack and or, due to the corrosion, they may not ever seal up again. Might be in for some new brake lines, ugh. All I wanted to do was replace the rear struts haha.
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:42 PM   #59
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is it possibel to unseize disc break calipers if so how
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:54 PM   #60
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I didn't watch this. But I assume it will answer your question.
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:10 PM   #61
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I can't get my driver's side window to go up, but I'm not sure if I want to fix it because it's always ready for a Wendy's drive-thru?
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:26 PM   #62
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Red Neck Fix: Swap switches for the back right (If four door), or passenger side if 2 door. Never unroll pax side window again.
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Old 06-29-2014, 02:48 PM   #63
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is it possibel to unseize disc break calipers if so how
depends on what part of the caliper is siezed. Could be the piston, bleed screw or sliding pin. But generaly if its siezed, its often not worth the effort or time to try to fix it. Replace it.
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Old 06-29-2014, 02:54 PM   #64
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But generaly if its siezed, its often not worth the effort or time to try to fix it. Replace it.
I'm no mechanic, but could you offer some more insight regarding this?

I've come across a lot of DIYs on forums (not marque specific) where factory brake caliper rebuild kits are available, but no shop ever wants to rebuild them but instead just replace them.
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:20 PM   #65
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Not sure of other manufacture's rebuild kits, but Honda's rebuild kits are basically seal kits. Rubber parts. I'm assuming other manufacture's and aftermarket would be the same.

The piston is usually pushed out with compressed air. If its rust in there, air isn't going to push it out. Could maybe try large waterpump pliers. But if it does come out, like in that video, it will be rusted and pitted. (bore and piston). Wouldn't want to try to clean rust off the piston and re-using it. Not worth the risk on brakes.

If the bleed screw is rusted, penetrating oil might work or else try using a torch. But run the risk of boiling the fluid. If the screw still breaks off, then it has to be drilled. Not worth the effort.

If the pins are rusted, try pressing it out or torch. If there's pitting on the pin or bore, not as big a deal since its not sealing any fluid.

Basiclly, if its siezed, metal parts are rusted and can be a bitch to take apart and good chance you have to replace that rusted part within the caliper.
Its fine to rebuild it if its leaking fluid because of old seals or if the piston boot or pin boots are torn and all the metal parts are still in good shape.

If its a rear caliper with a e-brake mechanism built in, it gets more complicated and definatley not worth trying to rebuild
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:34 PM   #66
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This guy goes into great detail about the rebuild of a 240z calliper. Anal, but if you have the time…
Classic Zcar Club - Thanks Rob...
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:11 PM   #67
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I like the way this thread is working out.

i hope the questions and advice keep coming.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:58 AM   #68
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My neighbor asked for help cause his '11 Sienna wouldn't start. I went over with a booster pack to find that he'd jumped the van to another car battery (on the ground) backwards.

After I disconnected the jumpers and looked over the main fuses (not blown), I got him to crank, just to see if it would do anything (if nothing happened, I'd assume something was blown). Lo and behold, the starter solenoid rapid-clicked, just like a normal drained battery. I hooked up my booster pack and it fired right away.

My questions are: Should I look anything over since it was hooked up backwards? Does this model have some kind of reverse polarity failsafe?

It was straight batt to batt, hooked up for at least 3-5mins. Booster batt had 12.6V. Once started, alt was charging at 14.2V and the van seemed to run OK.
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:22 PM   #69
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My neighbor asked for help cause his '11 Sienna wouldn't start. I went over with a booster pack to find that he'd jumped the van to another car battery (on the ground) backwards.

After I disconnected the jumpers and looked over the main fuses (not blown), I got him to crank, just to see if it would do anything (if nothing happened, I'd assume something was blown). Lo and behold, the starter solenoid rapid-clicked, just like a normal drained battery. I hooked up my booster pack and it fired right away.

My questions are: Should I look anything over since it was hooked up backwards? Does this model have some kind of reverse polarity failsafe?

It was straight batt to batt, hooked up for at least 3-5mins. Booster batt had 12.6V. Once started, alt was charging at 14.2V and the van seemed to run OK.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:08 PM   #70
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If the battery wasn't fucked before, it was after he boosted it wrong. Should've charged up from Coquitlam to Chinatown but it was still flat and he had to replace it. I'm surprised the main fuse didn't blow.
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:40 PM   #71
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Sorry to cross-post but this thread seems to get more exposure


Brake pedal clunk/pop/thunk

I've been getting this issue with my brakes in the last couple of weeks in my Honda.

The pedal makes a soft pop/clunk noise in the engine bay and I can feel it in the pedal as I'm stopping, only one pop each depress of the brake. It also happens sometimes when I'm completely stopped as shown in the video. It feels like an ABS kickback but it's not the ABS since it happens when I'm stopped.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:28 PM   #72
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Sounds like the booster but it's very difficult to diag noises without being there
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:38 PM   #73
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So I'm changing the spark plugs on the old man's Montana and the bastards at GM didn't bother using any dielectric grease or silicone on the boot ends.

Long story short, I completely ripped out the wire from the 3 plugs on the back of the engine, how the hell can I get the boots off? It's a 2000, and I've more or less zero leverage to yank these fuckers off.
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:10 AM   #74
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Never pull from the wire unless you're going to replace them.

This should help, although it looks like it's going to be a pita:
Anyone change plugs on their Montana?... - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:06 PM   #75
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Thanks ICE BOY - used a plug boot plier and had at it. All done now
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