Pick a dual duty car for BIC_BAWS
 

Alright. So I've been procrastinating on starting this thread. Sorry for the word vomit - I started this on a Word document and just went at it

Anyway, RS, as some of you may know, my E46 330Ci got rear ended this month. Write off limit is 70% of Actual Cash Value, body shop estimated at the very minimum, I'm at 132%. I heard from ICBC last week, and it’s official - the car is a write off. I'm alive, I'm a little sore in the neck, lower back, shoulder area, and weirdly left wrist. And yes, you can have my parts (just need stock + cash).

I have already started this topic in two other threads, but I think it needs its own thread. I will be quoting the previous posts about it here so that it does not get lost or repeated. There are two parts to this, firstly what car should I get next and secondly, how do I proceed since my car is a write off.

What car do I get next?

I know car buying is very subjective, so here's what I had done to my now dead E46 330CI. I had done all preventative maintenance even the most minor issues. Suspension was Bilstein B8s + H&R race springs, new MeyleHD control arms, and all new MeyleHD suspension bushings (I used Z4M RTAB if anyone’s curious). I had Revshift 95a poly engine mounts and trans mounts (NVH doesn't bother me) so that I could pair it to my RTD solid mounted shifter with DSSR (No cutting required CAE shifter).

Capability

My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously, sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with/drive my family around. Surprisingly, my 330ci has more rear leg and head room than my 2015 Civic sedan.

Another aspect that I now have to consider is my commute. As mentioned in RE thread, if I do end up doing a 80-200Km commute, this is going to suck. Originally, my plan was to use my 330CI as a strict track car and buy a beater. Obviously, that's not going to work now.

Maintenance

A common question to car buying is tolerance to maintenance. Yes, I am familiar with European “reliability” and fortunately I can turn a wrench now with this very expensive 330CI experience. Part of me doesn’t want to repeat that experience and spend the next 4 years and at least 13K doing maintenance again (LINK TO MY E46 SPREADSHEET). However, I did learn I am somewhat of a masochist, I enjoy taking cars that aren’t meant to handle the best and push them beyond what the automaker intended the average consumer to use it for. This will be outlined in the sections below.

Aftermarket Support

Another aspect I’m concerned about is aftermarket support or track focused aftermarket support. I’m probably wrong, but I think that if a car can perform at the track, it’ll be fine for the street. That’s kind of the whole ethos behind my E46 330CI, I can almost guarantee that it will never break down on the road after all of my preventative maintenance mods. Well, aside from windshield wipers not working in the middle of a rain storm on Hwy 1, but that’s a story for another time.

Budget

This would likely be around 15-20K cash or 30K finance on a used car. Depending on how much ICBC gives me for the 330CI, I could consider a car that’s 40K finance/lease, but I think I would be overextending myself.

What cars am I considering?

BMW M3s

Well I think an easy choice is the E46 M3, but I’m also considering a E36 M3 or E90 M3. I’ve always liked the E90 M3 and the E46 M3, but since I’m mostly familiar with the E46 platform, I’ll speak on the latter.

Having an E46 non-M, getting an E46 M3 should be a no brainer since it will likely share the same basic maintenance that I performed to my 330ci that totals about $13K. This would consist of a full cooling system overhaul, suspension overhaul (shocks/springs + RE plates, guibo, RTABs, RTAB limiters, LCA, LCAB, etc), engine/trans mounts, and shifter bushings (will probably just use my RTD for this tbh). I have calculated M3 specific maintenance to be about $9K, which would include Rear Carrier Arm Bushing (subframe reinforcement) with Vincebar, Rod Bearings, and VANOS rebuild with Besian Systems.

While the E46 M3 would be an amazing car, for its daily ability and track, I’m just not sure if I want to spend the next 4 years of my life doing maintenance again. All the other M3s listed above are in consideration as well, just the same issue of maintenance.

Justin really got down what I was saying, his response is top notch:

E90 M3 would be cool cause 4 door M3 LOL

Forester XT

Apparently this is basically impossible.

BRZ/FRS/86
So I drove a brz for the day, keep in mind, I'm the biggest BRZ hater. I drove it from Richmond to North Van and shockingly, I couldn't stop smiling. Then I drove to Squamish and back to Richmond. I'm fucking shook. For a stock car, it's really good. Hell, the suspension is better (or on par) and rides nicer than my Bilstein B8s. It takes Sea to Sky so smoothly, in the E46 you can really feel the weight, but in the brz it was so put together. There was no body roll, but it was definitely gutless. Typically after the 60 zone ends past the mine, on the uphill section, I can cruise up in 4th in the E46. But in the BRZ, I had to downshift to 3rd and even then, it felt like it was struggling.

Overall, I drove it like I was driving my E46 to see how well it does. Interestingly, I felt like the car was going a lot faster than it’s actual speed. For reference, for me to feel like I’m doing a quick number in the E46, I’d have to be doing about 40KM/HR faster than the BRZ. Weirdly enough though, my 330CI is built more for the track than a daily, but I don't feel exhausted or anything driving it for the whole day. But I feel tired as fuck driving the BRZ. Must be the seats.
I don’t think I’d get a BRZ though, the back seats are basically useless. I might as well consider a 350Z or 370Z at that point.

Notable Mentions
1st gen IS300 in M/T would be cool but it seems impossible to find. Before the E46, there was a several but very high kms and about 8-10K.
I’m not a fan of RHD for daily driving, but I guess if I can’t find one an Altezza RS200 would be cool too. I assume it has LSD?

2nd gen IS350 in M/T (if it exists)

1st gen TSX in M/T (or EuroR)

9th gen Civic Si (FB6) would be a great daily. I might hate myself driving it though, the rev hang is terrible. I think the factory tune on the K24 is just crap. But at least it has Bluetooth, navi, and a nice interior.

If I could afford it (probably not LOL): GS F; IS F; Genesis G70/Kia Stinger; F80 M3; M2

DC2/DB8 Type R?
I’ve always had a soft spot for the DB8 Type R. Everyone hates it, that’s probably why I like it LOL.
Type R Thread

How to Deal With a Write Off?
Official Latest Pic Thread

Tl;dr

Focus RS

135i just based on what I skimmed through

Would have suggested FRS/BRZ/86 but seems like you're trying to convince yourself not to get one. It's definitely slow on a straight line but if that's a deal breaker for you then it might not be for you. Had mine for 5 years with 40+ track days and 30k-35k a year of driving (until I picked up a beater/daily for winter) and it's been relatively cheap to maintain/mod

135i manual

e90 m or golf r

dont show up to a meeting in a sti/evolution/typer

every used car is going to have a bunch of maintenance needed.

i would def wait around for an e46 m3 or e90 m3.
(this coming from an e46 m3 owner)

good luck!

Your list is kind of all over the place. You seem to be cross shopping

- Korean, Japanese, German, American
- rwd, fwd, awd
- 4 door, 2 door, hatch, wagon, 2 seater
- na v6, na flat 4, turbo flat 4, straight 6, v8, twin turbo v6 etc

I think a more simple streamlined wants and needs list is required

If you're gonna do the commute have you thought about a phev just so you can get a hov sticker. That is gonna save you a lot of time during rush hour. I'm still on the fence about getting a model 3 once life gets back to normal, traffic is starting to get busy and gas prices will probably go back up

- old, newish, brand new

Definitely narrow down the functionality you need from the car and work from that. I see mention of things like showing up to meetings, do you ever have to drive higher ups or clients around?

Also I recall you posting in the RE thread about looking to buy a house soon, be careful financing anything as it may impact how much of a mortgage you're approved for.

2004 Pontiac GTO?

2016+ WRX with a stick, of course.

On another thread I saw you mentioned that you have the intent to purchase a place soon, and for that I would absolutely avoid financing a car 1000%

On top of that, I see you have a shit ton of cars listed in which they are all over the place in terms of budget and duty.

I think your next logical car would be either the BMW 128i or 135i (later model). Wifey had a 128i before, it was a bare bones automatic. Felt like a fun car, pretty nimble. Could call it a modern day E46 330ci. I was looking for one myself actually but in a unicorn trim model, but sort of gave up on it. The 128i with m sport package is almost double the price of the earlier models.

I wouldn't bother with Subaru unicorn cars and the overly inflated prices. Legacy Spec B's pop up once in a blue moon and they are usually high mileage. Same with the Forester XT's in stick shift.

I've got a first gen 5 speed manual Insight calling your name if you're going to rock that commute :lol

+1

The 128i or even the E90/92 328i is great with a stick. Faster than what it seems on paper. The engine is super smooth, revs like cream and it's really reliable. If you think you still need more power, get the 3 stage manifold, intake, header and tune. That will get you close to 300hp crank.

Just old enough to be affordable, just new enough to be enjoyable without sacrificing too much comfort. Just simple enough to work on yourself.

Coming from a former E90 330i, 335i, E92 M3, owner of an N52 now.

It won't feel like an FRS in the corner no matter what you do to it but as a single-car its actually really useful, even the coupe with the fold-down seats. I've done small moves with it actually and it did well in the snowstorm we had a couple of months ago on Blizzaks. Never got stuck once even on the island when the ferries were canceled.

Commute: it's damped enough to be sporty but really comfortable on long trips. Beats my family's Panamera which is way too stiff. Good on gas, take regular engine oil, unlike my old M. You don't need to worry about putting 100km on it every day, only issues are valve cover gasket, thermostat, water pump. Do it like every 130-150k and your good. Otherwise pretty much problem-free. Never had any electrical problem in any of my E90/92.

Easy, the answer is always Golf R. Get the newest one that your budget can afford.

German
Masochist
$30K budget

Get another German car. BMW will hit all that criteria. Don't bother with Japanese. Will be too reliable. :lol

Miata is always the answer
- within budget
- lots of aftermarket
- fun to drive/daily-able
- probably has something broken for you to fix
- lack of power? just k-swap :troll:

/thread

I just got rid of my 1st gen TSX manual which is on your list. I actually enjoyed it for commuting. Decent on fuel, spacious and the engine is very smooth. A decent cheap commuter car.

Got a Golf R manual now. Probably one of the best all-around cars I have experienced. Technology, power, agility. It is a bit tight for 4 adults and the trunk space with seats folded isn't as much as I had with my MS3 or STI hatchbacks but still decent.

Kev