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Old 03-16-2021, 05:22 PM   #51
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Any idea how to remove this screw? It is being blocked by the window hinge. Trying to take it out to allow the window to open more.

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Old 03-16-2021, 11:27 PM   #52
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Currently living in an apartment with Central Air, one room is a bit smaller so whenever the heat is on it gets stuff whereas the larger areas such as living and master are cold. Anyone have any solutions or ideas? Was thinking of changing out the vent to something that I can open and close to push the flow to other areas?
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:53 PM   #53
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Installed the Panasonic bathroom fans and a few of the Legrand Adorne collection switches. So awesome.
How many cfm did you end up using? Are those switches what hipsters are using these days?

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Any idea how to remove this screw? It is being blocked by the window hinge. Trying to take it out to allow the window to open more.

[IMG].. [/IMG]
Is there a cleaning mode on your window? It might open it up more to let you remove the screw.



Need a bit of help from you guys/girls.
I'm prepping the wall for wall mount tv and want to put wires in the wall before I put up my drywall. What should I put? I don't know what I'm connecting to my tv yet for my final setup. Also not sure if I'll be able to leave string in the wall to fish wires in the future because all the wires won't be in the same studs.
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Old 04-02-2021, 02:16 PM   #54
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How many cfm did you end up using? Are those switches what hipsters are using these days?
I ended up getting one that's 150 CFM and it works quite well. I love the timer switch that we got so no need to worry about ever leaving it on or anything since it's timed. The 150 CFM is a huge improvement over the POS Nutone or Broan or whatever was in there before. It really pulls the air through the door and pulls up all the moisture no problem.

I'm not sure if this is what hipsters use these days seeing as I'm not one, although another member on here would know better. Username is TOS'd.
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Old 04-02-2021, 03:20 PM   #55
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No matter what cables you run, at some point they'll be out of date or you'll need another. You can run plastic conduit, which fits a few cables, but you may want to run more than one. Are you crossing studs at all or is it straight down?
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Old 04-02-2021, 10:47 PM   #56
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I ended up getting one that's 150 CFM and it works quite well. I love the timer switch that we got so no need to worry about ever leaving it on or anything since it's timed. The 150 CFM is a huge improvement over the POS Nutone or Broan or whatever was in there before. It really pulls the air through the door and pulls up all the moisture no problem.

I'm not sure if this is what hipsters use these days seeing as I'm not one, although another member on here would know better. Username is TOS'd.
What was the recommended cfm using your contractor equation? I have no moisture issues either but air flow is quite large and it can get cold if I'm sitting on the throne too long.
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No matter what cables you run, at some point they'll be out of date or you'll need another. You can run plastic conduit, which fits a few cables, but you may want to run more than one. Are you crossing studs at all or is it straight down?
Crossing quite a few studs. If you go back to my fireplace pic on page 2, I'm thinking of running the wires down and to the left of the fireplace.
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:37 AM   #57
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What's below that room?
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:53 AM   #58
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What's below that room?
Basement living room with a similar fireplace setup.
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:46 AM   #59
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I'm in the process of ripping down and replacing all my fascia and gutters, they were getting rotten and though you never want to have to spend the $20k for an item that appears to make no difference, if you let water seep up into your rafters, it is a much steeper bill.
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Old 04-03-2021, 01:47 PM   #60
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What was the recommended cfm using your contractor equation? I have no moisture issues either but air flow is quite large and it can get cold if I'm sitting on the throne too long.


Crossing quite a few studs. If you go back to my fireplace pic on page 2, I'm thinking of running the wires down and to the left of the fireplace.
i assume you're not going to cross the fireplace vent - i agree with underscore, throw in a conduit, flexible (ENT) is easiest. 1" or 1.25" minimum.
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Old 04-03-2021, 03:37 PM   #61
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What was the recommended cfm using your contractor equation? I have no moisture issues either but air flow is quite large and it can get cold if I'm sitting on the throne too long.
We ended up using my contractor recommended L x W x H (in feet) x 0.13 = minimum CFM. It worked out be pretty much dead on 150 CFM and the air it pulls in gets pretty cold.
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Old 04-03-2021, 11:02 PM   #62
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Currently removing some outdated popcorn ceiling in my place. Going at it room by room so I don't have a war zone of a place and can tackle it slower but at a pace that fits our schedule.
1 of the rooms was a breeze to take of, sand, prime and paint. Room I'm on right now, not so much. There were several gouges in the drywall that need patch jobs that I filled up and sanded down to make it all smooth and even. Primer went on and it looked fine. Put on a cost of paint a day later and the spots that were patched up are sticking out like a sore thumb. Flashing is what I'm told.

Solutions? I don't want to do a second coat and hope it sorts itself out only to end up being a waste of time. Luckily its on a small bathroom ceiling and not a living room/dining room ceiling.
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Old 04-05-2021, 10:54 AM   #63
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can you skim/blend in those gauge spots?

IMO imperfections in a smooth ceiling finish are easily highlighted by by light & shadows. since it's a small bathroom, if you can hide/blend light/shadows i think that will help (even casting of light so fewer shadows casted on uneven surfaces).
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Old Yesterday, 12:04 AM   #64
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How deep is the hole? If itís fairly deep fill the cavity up with somthing just to take up some space could be paper towel etc. So you donít have to pump a shot load of silicon in thereOR just buy a large tube of white silicone and keep filling until itís over flowing. Then use a razor blade etc. And scrape the top of the hole until itís flush with the rest of the floor. Let it set for 3 day or so until itís no longer tacky and it wonít hold dust etc
Why don't you try adding another transition piece on top of it going full length left to right. Silicone around the transition.
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Old Yesterday, 06:49 AM   #65
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Why don't you try adding another transition piece on top of it going full length left to right. Silicone around the transition.
Looks like the current transition piece is under the door frame. Filling the gap as is is definitely the easier route when compared to redoing pieces.
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