Learn the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

As a rule of thumb, yeah, the inverse of your shutter speed is the minimum shutter speed you should use to get a sharp photo. Of course, this depends on how steady your hands are.

Some people are saying that for crop cameras, I should integrate the crop into the 1/focal rule. Is that necessary?

So in which case, for 35mm, it'd be 1/35x1.6 = roughly 1/15

If anything, that means it should be faster, not slower.

1.6x 35mm = 56mm.

I don't know...I don't do any of this stuff, personally. Just shoot however you feel comfortable.

Hmm.. I thought it was 1 divided by the focal length..

I'm trying to figure out how this shit all works out right now by comparing my manual shots with the point and shoot mode.

By using the 1/focal rule on M, I'm shooting at 1/30 right now. But in order to get a well-lit shot, I have to bump up the ISO to like 640.

By shooting in P, I can use ISO 200 with 1/13 to get the same photo with less grain.

Interesting, but I guess that's why it's the minimum shutter rule. I have lots to learn, but it's been pretty fun so far.

If you're shooting 35mm and starting out, I'd probably recommend 1/50 or 1/60 minimum, unless you're sure you can hold the camera still.

The D80 has pretty bad higher ISO performance. I do recall anything over ISO800 is really, really noisyi.

Oh yes, good point about the crop factor. it should be 1/(Focallength * 1.5)

This is just a rule of thumb. If your lens has VR or IS then that's a game changer. I had the 16-85mm VR for a while and sometimes I could get sharp shots at 1/8 of a second.

Yeah, my lens all have VR.

I was shooting in aperture mode today, and I noticed some of my shots were at like 1/320 or 1/200 (I guess from the sunlight).

Is that alright? It doesn't abide by the 1/focal rule, so I'm a bit discouraged that the shots I took today could've possibly been nicer? How would one even use the 1/focal rule with aperture mode? Or is the 1/focal rule pretty much for M and S mode?

EDIT:

Shit, just read an article online that said..

If you have a 50mm focal length, this means try to shoot faster than 1/50 second.
If you have a 200mm focal length, you’ll want to shoot faster than 1/200th second.

I guess I was confused and read it the other way around. I was thinking that if I had a 50mm, I'd want to shoot 1/50 and under aka. 1/50, 1/30, 1/10, 1s

EDIT2:

I'm testing all these shots in my room, and it's not the greatest lit room. Perhaps I'm overthinking everything since the D80 does have a shit sensor for low light situations from what I've read.

^ yea, how would that work, the longer you open up thte shutter for, the more prone it is to motion blur.

As Ronin said, Learn the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO...

That way you'll be able to answer all of those questions easily on your own.

If you want faster than 1/50, the number on the bottom gets smaller.

e.g. 1/50 of a second is more time than 1/100 of a second.

"And under" means "faster", which means less time.

So it's quite foggy tonight and I have an itching to shoot.
Where do you guys think would be a good place for tonight?

I think I'm long overdue for pics from the F1.0L.

But this thing has been keeping me busy for any shooting. So, I will just leave this here:

Teddy@F1.0
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8...274afa64_o.jpg

so my company asked me to take some shots of one of our custom built houses this week, any tips on shooting interiors/exteriors of a house?

you guys think it would be best to shoot interior at night or in the day?

my lense setup consists of the 50mm 1.8, 70-300, and Kit lense 18-60 or w/e, have a good tripod and wireless remote so i would asume all my shots should be taken via tripod for optimal results?

I watched this video a few years back, but it should help you out a lot.


You're going to want a lot of lighting I think - probably not going to need your 50 or your telephoto, just your kit lens should be good.

if u don't have good lighting, take several exposures of the same shot and process them w/ subtle HDR

and if you find 18mm to be not that wide, overlap the images (at least 40%) and stitch them in PS or use hugin

question for you gurus, since i assume most of you guys have learned the relation between aperture/iso/speed does this mean most of you guys shoot in manual mode? and any good links where i can learn this ? if not ill just google it

I'm not a guru, but I shoot in A mode 90% of the time. Manual is 9% of the time, and Shutter Priority 1% of the time.

^same. Av most of the time, M when doing studio or long exposure, Tv when shooting panning shots or cars and such

Mostly Av here too.

Background needs to be messier to see the capability of the lens...because center sharpness isn't great. The whole point of the thing is bokeh.

With these super large apertures so its actually worth all that extra money for that. 0.8?

Ie the 50mm 1.8 is $99 while the 1.4 is like 600?
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1.4 is $400. And yes, it's worth it.

The 1.8 WILL BREAK eventually. I had one just fall apart. Seriously, the entire lens came off the mount. I didn't drop it, either...just picked it up out of my bag.

The 1.4 is better construction and will last longer than four 1.8s.

Now whether L glass (50mm 1.2) at $1500 (I think?) is worth it over the 1.4 ($400) is another debate.

*sorry, wrong post*

The 50mm 1.4, in my opinion and experience, is not a very good lens.

It's loud (old design), and there are many known issues with it, and on that alone isn't worth the $400.

I've had the 1.8, and as long as you never ever hold your entire camera by the lens when it's attached, it's fine. Just do be a bit more careful since it's plastic...

If you have a crop, I recommend the sigma 30mm 1.4. Or the sigma 50mm 1.4. They're both very good lenses.

i use M 90% of the time.

I'm a guru, and I ONLY shoot manual. Real photographers only shoot manual. :badpokerface: