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hmm well the engine should be fine, just make sure you do the atf or mm oil trick to the engine before ya start it up, but if these are rebuilds they shouldnt have any carbon build up. But ya as for you hearing those engines tend to blow lately, they are blowing up because of the owners negligence via not adding fuel with mods or neglecting to change the oil ever 3,000 km's or so. Also if those guys are saying those jap engines are caused their engine to blow then that means that they already blew one before right?? (well most likey), so ya they just dont get rotary engines. Ya might want to check all the hoses etc to make sure they dont have crackes in them if the engine is old. Also you should get TII drivetrain and all that if u plan on modding your car, or ya could just wait and see if it breaks and then ya could buy it. O yea u WILL need atleast a stock TII clutch, the n/a's are soo small and dinky :). WHen i did a clutch job on my car they sent me a n/a one and it wasnt even close to the same size. |
hmm well the engine should be fine, just make sure you do the atf or mm oil trick to the engine before ya start it up, but if these are rebuilds they shouldnt have any carbon build up. But ya as for you hearing those engines tend to blow lately, they are blowing up because of the owners negligence via not adding fuel with mods or neglecting to change the oil ever 3,000 km's or so. Ya might want to check all the hoses etc to make sure they dont have crackes in them if the engine is old. Also you should get TII drivetrain and all that if u plan on modding your car, or ya could just wait and see if it breaks and then ya could buy it. O yea u WILL need atleast a stock TII clutch, the n/a's are soo small and dinky :). WHen i did a clutch job on my car they sent me a n/a one and it wasnt even close to the same size. |
I was thinking the same thing about doing the ATF or oil in it before starting. But the reason they blow supposedly is because the engines sit for so long without being touched, and that is bad, real bad. But, I was under impression that if you put ATF or oil inside it and let it sit a bit before starting, and then drove like it was a brand new engine and did break in procedures it should be fine. I am almost giving up and thinking to hell with it and sticking NA, but not totally sure. This is list of parts I would for sure need to buy to make it work and be able to run it as well: BOV AFM ECU Fuel Pump Clutch And the drivetrain should be fine as long as you don't push the car hard, those are my thoguht as well....I can always get new tranny and driveshaft and stuff later and until then no dumping clutch from 6k and no WOT all the way to 8k or anything.....I dunno anymore though. Is it really worth all the trouble.....especially if the engine does still blow up within a month. Those are my thoughts.....still undecided right now....sort of. |
Wow Tyler, I just checked your cardomain site, when did you get the rims?! Looks great dude! |
Uggg....I am torn between going with the JSPEC engine or just rebuilding and staying NA!! Need help deciding! Please off advice. This is where I stand so far. To complete JSPEC I would need about $3000-$3500 (I think??), including installation costs and buying these parts: BOV, AFM, ECU, Fuel Pump, Clutch (maybe clutch, not sure whether it comes with one or not), SAFC (suggested). I would also need to get new Tranny and driveshaft in near future, but not required for just getting it on the road. To complete NA rebuild I would need to spend about $2500-$3000 and that is getting it done professionally, not done by me, and includes labour. I have heard that the JSPECs can blow easily, but I figure they only would if you did not start them right, as in no ATF/Engine oil in it before startup and then they should be treated as a new engine for a while and really lightly driven, you know the procedures. The JSPEC engine I am looking into getting is compression tested and leakdown tested before shipping to make sure it is fine. I wanna know, which route should I go for? I REALLY want boost, but I don't know how many hidden expenses are gonna pop up if I go that route and wether it will be a pain or not, then again, I love a good project and it would give me something to work towards to make this conversion work properly, I don't mind about how long it takes (sort of) or how much money it takes. I am more for spend the extra to have a car that you love and have built the way YOU want it to be, no matter what. So......any advice or just say which route to take, might make a difference, then again boost might win over and no matter what I may go for boost, we'll see. :D Thanks Later -Justin |
bcty so are you going to keep your two RX-7s? |
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No i am not keeping both Rx7's Hey Timpo would you consider buying the 1st gen if i gave you a good deal.. my father doesnt want 2 cars kickin around anymore.. need to get rid of it fast! pm me... Rims i got at a local Kal Tire down here... Sweet deal picking up the full set either tomorrow or the next monday... :) I only brought one home to test fit it on otherwise i wouldve got a full car shot :) Tyler |
does anyone know is Bosch makes an H4 housing bulb for my headlight that uses 2 H4 bulbs? i am wanting HID's just the drop in for now but also wanting the full range of the regular headlights like hi/low beam.. so im thinking HID + PIAA Super White.... |
bcty pmed you. |
IMO if u really want boost and you want to get there the cheapest way possible, i would get your n/a rebuilt (maybe ported) then sell it and buy a TII. Its almost always cheaper to sell then buy then it is to swap engines. |
costs too mcuh to rebuilt. |
yeah....I am probably gonna do the swap....it would be easiest just to buy a TII, and probably cheapest as well....but whatever, I am still gonna go through with the swap, even if it takes me inot July to get it done completely. Boost is gonna be sweet! :D |
yeah swap is good. |
SWAP 20B:D |
yea right timpo, maybe if he had $20,000+ to spend then the 20b would be alright. The engine swap will cost atleast $5000 with everything and a rebuilds are cheap. U could do it for like $700 yourself or even less. Getting a shop to do the engine swap will be soo expensive!! u will soon regret it, mark my words :) |
meh....I am more then likely gonna get the swap done, but not totally sure, if not then the Rebuild will be on for sure, obviously. But we'll see.....all in good time..... |
$20k plus? I thought FC is easyer than FD... |
Timpo, what kind of car are you going to buy next? You should get a Turbo II or another FD:) |
does anyone know if Ed's Fog lights in the middle are Projector or are they Driving lights? thanks.. oh and p.s - I have a small driving light in my headlights i used a small blue bulb in but now i replaced it with a 150watt H3 bulb so i have that plus my headlight H4 bulb with will soon be the 125/135 Piaa one and i wanna pick up a pair of fogs like Ed's.. :) oh boy! |
Sounds nice and bright..... :D Good stuff for those night time cruises....please try not to high beam me... :D hehe Alright gang.....this is getting rediculous now....I changed my mind yet AGAIN and am gonna stay NA, time for bigass streetport on rebuild!! Oh well....no boost for me......yet.....maybe in future I will get a Turbo 7....but for now, NA with true duals on street port, gonna get PA sleeves and stuff as well.... Later -Justin |
Yo, black FC do you have msn? I'd love to talk Rx-7s some time. Maybe Help with an engine pull or a rebuild!! You can rebuild an engine for SO much cheaper then you go to have it rebuilt for. Plus when you rebuild it you know the engine is gettin the proper parts!! Why dont you just get a Turbo II engine...same year as yours boost the engine for have 250hp that way the drive train will be able to support that much power and you will still be able to pull sub 14's!! |
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That goes for anyone else who wants to add, can talk cars and talk shit anytime! Hear from ya soon. Later -Justin |
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